DIY Power Pack LiFePO4 WATTBOX

RDinNHand AZ

Active member
DIY WattBox LiFePO4 based power pack.
I settled on building a LiFepo4 based 700Wh storage unit which is size comparable between a Jackery 500 and 1000 or a bit cheaper than the smaller 500 Goal Zero. For my needs, I decided to have the inverter plug in, but I could have built it inside, same for the charger. Both will fit into my box if I want them along. Here is the finished product:
IMG_0589.jpgIMG_0590.jpgInsideBare.jpeginsidecover.jpegInsideWires.jpeg
It is difficult to compare portable power stations as even the technical sections of their websites obfuscate the power output of these devices by reporting its output at 3.6 volts, 120 volts, inverter watts and occasionally as amp hours. If they all reported the internal battery’s output in watt-hours or in amp-hours at 12 volts it would be easy. Hidden in the specification sheet for these products is also the battery type. AGM lead acid batteries are heavy and cheap. Lithium Ion batteries are lighter and more costly but with comparable recharge life, from 500-2,000. LiFePO batteries are expensive, long lived, safe, and more expensive, and even when used hard return 4,000+ recharge cycles. All these power stations have some common features. Most include USB charging ports, one cigar type outlet, several SAE or other output ports, a solar controller and an inverter. This is a ~680 Wh unit, weights 23 pounds. It runs my refrigerator and some lights, electronics chargers, etc for 2 days w/o sun and runs everything continuously in decent conditions. I do not normally use an inverter. I carry one for my friends who don’t have a 12 volt power cord for their computers. Here are the components and prices:
Untitled.jpg
I chose the input and output connectors to be similar to Jackery’s. The PWM controller works great with one solar panel and has features to wake up the BMS of the LiFePO4 battery and properly charges it. I could have saved a few hundred dollars by using a cheaper Li-Ion battery but in my opinion LiFePO4 is enough better to make the WattBox a superior product to those mentioned above. If you want to build this for about $300+- research Lithium Ion.
I also added a 100 watt solar panel that folds and stores in my truck and a very good Alpikool refrigerator CF35 which has proved to be up to the task.
This complete power unit with solar panel and refrigerator is close to the cost as a mass produced but poorer Li-Ion power unit by itself. Enjoy the build!
 
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RDinNHand AZ

Active member
john61ct
I hear you and so I made a couple of edits. Thanks for the heads up. The stuff I don’t know could fill the internet..... in fact it does.
RD
 

john61ct

Adventurer
Thank you sometimes I feel like Don Quixote tilting at windmills!

Looks like a good unit there, and besides the **much** better value compared to OTC ones

you know that the various components meet **your** needs, not selected for some arbitrary "market segment" or price point.

And if any part fails or needs upgrading, easy for you to do so since you're educating yourself (and others) as you go.

Kudos to you!
 

RDinNHand AZ

Active member
Thanks I appreciate the support. The thing has worked great. We flew to AZ for winter so I had to leave it in NH for charged up to 60% as AIMS recommends. Power loss is 3%/mo so in April I’ll charge it and put it back to work. Another reason to go LiFePO4.

Oddly I did have two things to fix. The Anderson Powerpole connectors would not make reliable contact and I found one had not gotten inserted all the way. The cigar socket back came unglued after about 20 uses. Easy fix for both because I knew the product like I made it!
 

OllieChristopher

Well-known member
Thanks for the heads up on the Anderson connectors built into your solar generator. Yes LiFePO4 is the way to go in any of these solar generator packs. Once the market settles into using more of the LiFePO4 technology I'll consider buying one of these units already made. A few of the manufacturers are offering solar panels included for a nice package deal.

Both my motorcycle batteries are LiFePO4. My compact battery pack (not to be confused with a solar generator like yours) is also LiFePO4. I can let the batteries set for a year with no issues. I still charge up my battery pack every 6 months and keep my motorcycles on a standard battery tender.

I'm not sure on your LiFePO4 battery but all mine have a BMS so I can use a regular trickle maintenance charger to keep them topped up. My smaller ETX12A as well as all of the Earth X lineup have a 4,000+ cycle discharge rate.
 

RDinNHand AZ

Active member
Mine does have a BMS but the dedicated charger was not expensive and will “wake up” the BMS if it shuts down the battery. I do not keep it on a trickle/maintainer as I have had bad experiences with them left on all the time on my FLA and AGM/GEL batteries. Most folks don’t ever have issues but a day a month does well. In the off season I disconnect the negative side of the batteries on my Tacoma, Miata, 4Runner, BMW GS and a few other vehicles with computers that draw power. YMMV.
 

Martinjmpr

Wiffleball Batter
That's a pretty nice setup for $650.00 (y)

Best of all, if a single component fails you can just swap it out with a new one and keep going.
 

john61ct

Adventurer
LFP should definitely not be floated.

Even just sitting at a high SoC for a long period is going to reduce lifespan.

The ideal is, only charge just before you need to draw it down.

When not cycling, store at about 50% SoC, lower if the cells are isolated, no parasitic draws e.g. from the BMS.

If you are unable to isolate them, then store a bit higher, say 60-70%, then top back up to that level when they drop to 30-40%.

Do not rely on the BMS for its LVC in normal usage if you care about longevity, recharge long before any cell hits 3.0V
 

OllieChristopher

Well-known member
LFP should definitely not be floated.

Float charging a LiPo battery is perfectly safe as long as the battery is not charged beyond its maximum voltage rating. I'm at just about 9 years of float charging the same lithium battery with no ill effects. Your built in AIMS battery BMS will handle the charge and regulate the incoming voltage from the charging source just fine.

Also no special charger is needed. Any cheap battery maintainer like a Battery Tender will work perfectly on any lithium battery that has a BMS.
 

john61ct

Adventurer
Not talking about safety, but optimizing longevity.

9 years is nothing.

LFP should not sit at high SoC, and once hit the ~3.45Vpc setpoint should be taken offline from the charge source if it will continue to carry loads, using a cheap lead batt as buffer if needed.

Drop-ins are sub par afaic, and most BMS totally suck.

But we've already agreed to disagree on stuff like this, our standards and fundamental goals differ too much to make arguing worth it.

I'm sure your reco's are just fine for many use cases, likely including the OP's.
 

RDinNHand AZ

Active member
So you agree the storage I did in post#5 was correct? 60% and unused for 4 months should be ~48% when I return. Then near fully charge and use it.
 

john61ct

Adventurer
Yes, that must be the BMS drawing a load pulling it down, pity no way to turn it off / unplug it?

so long as the cells are not allowed to drop much below 3.0V should be fine
 

astropuppy

New member
When charging from your car, driving down the road. Do you plug the battery/bms directly into your car's power port?
 

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