MB Oil Spec OM366 LA, Fully Synthetic?

Geo.Lander

Well-known member
I have been trying and failing to find out how backward compatible the MB OEM spec is, for instance can I use a fully synthetic oil with MB 228.51 spec? The manual states 228.0/1 oils, of course the superceding specs where not available when the manual was printed? I found the following info online and of course oil manufactures have their own spec that adhere both to MB and ACEA ones.. even more confusing.
MB 228.1: Heavy duty, diesel engine oil specification for MB engines without ASSYST. Meets ACEA E2 and additional MB demands.

MB 228.3: Heavy duty, multigrade, diesel engine oil specification superceding MB 228.1.

MB 228.31: Heavy duty, low ash, diesel engine oil.

MB 228.5: Heavy duty, multigrade, diesel engine oil specification superceding MB 228.3.

MB 228.51: Heavy duty, diesel engine oil specification applicable for high performance engines meeting Euro 4 emissions standards. Can also be used for Euro 3, Euro 2 and Euro 1 requirements.

ACEA:

  • E2
    General purpose oil for naturally aspirated and turbocharged diesel engines, medium to heavy duty service and mostly normal drain intervals. (Obsolete by 2010).
  • E4
    Stable, stay in grade oil more severe than E7, for significantly extended oil drain intervals. Usually synthetic or predominantly synthetic. Suitable for Euro 3, Euro 4 & Euro 5 engine emission requirements.
  • E6
    As for E4 but with chemical limits to allow use in engines with particulate filters and SCR NOx reduction systems. Only for diesel fuel with <50ppm sulphur, 1.0% ash, 0.08% phosphorus. Suitable for Euro 4, Euro 5 & Euro 6 engine emission requirements.
  • E7
    Designed for use in Euro 3, Euro 4 & Euro 5 emission diesel engines in severe heavy duty service and extended drain intervals, where allowed. More severe than E2/E3 but not as severe as E4.
  • E8
    2022 saw the introduction of E8 which supersedes and is intended to replace E6, with increased emphasis on oxidation stability and aeration performance. Good oxidation performance helps to prevent oil thickening and reduces acid formation in the engine, which is especially important with increased service intervals. Improved aeration performance helps prevent oil starvation, accelerated engine wear and helps maintain engine power.
  • E9
    Designed for Euro 4, Euro 5 & Euro 6 emission diesel engines, with and without DPFs. SAPS limits line up with API CJ-4 & TBN 7 minimum.

Plan on using 5W-30 for winter and 10W-40 for summer:
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I have extensively researched this. To the point of having multiple textbooks about the subject.
With the OM366LA, the best oil would be 228.5, followed by 228.3.
You do NOT need to use low SAPS 228.31/51, and it’s actually inferior when using higher sulfur fuels.
One can still easily source 228.5 oil in Europe. I even use it living here in Alaska: Mobil Delvac 1 SHC 5W40. And in Namibia (where vehicle currently is located), Caltex Delo Gold T 10W40. Just for example.
In Europe you could use Mobil Delvac XHP Ultra 10W40, I think it’s also 5W30. There’s lots more 228.5 around.
PS: the 5W40 works well in my winter climate, temperature almost never below -30C.
 
Last edited:

Geo.Lander

Well-known member
I have extensively researched this. To the point of having multiple textbooks about the subject.
With the OM366LA, the best oil would be 228.5, followed by 228.3.
You do NOT need to use low SAPS 228.31/51, and it’s actually inferior when using higher sulfur fuels.
One can still easily source 228.5 oil in Europe. I even use it living here in Alaska: Mobil Delvac 1 SHC 5W40. And in Namibia (where vehicle currently is located), Caltex Delo Gold T 10W40. Just for example.
In Europe you could use Mobil Delvac XHP Ultra 10W40, I think it’s also 5W30. There’s lots more 228.5 around.
PS: the 5W40 works well in my winter climate, temperature almost never below -30C.
Thanks so much Charlie! Just the information i was looking for!
 

DiploStrat

Expedition Leader
FWI - I have been using synthetic oil since I bought the truck. The folks at Atkinson Vos simply use conventional oils in older vehicles.

I suspect that Dr. Arrons has done good research.
 

Iain_U1250

Explorer
I've used a variety, when we are traveling I use the Castrol Ultra Long life oil - 100,000km between changes, and I change the oil filter every 5000km. Much easier to get rid of one litre of oil than 12 litres oil. I change it when I get back after 20-30,000km. Fully synthetic 10W40 mainly,

 

Neil

Observer
My 1017 has an air compressor that is a small piston mounted on the side of the engine and shares its lubrication with the engine oil.

Whilst I am certain that the engine itself would be more than happy with synthetic oil, Wabco, who make the air system state that the small particles of oil that get past the piston into the air system will be very detrimental to the rubber components within it.

Because of this I only get Mineral Oil, which in the UK is getting harder to source

Neil
 

Iain_U1250

Explorer
Mine has a block mounted compressor, but when I re-built the air system, I added a "wet tank" and a filter dryer into the air system. I have never had anything come out any of the air drains on the tanks, and when I swapped out one of the air tanks, I found nothing at all in the tank, not even a film of oil or dirt. I have never had a problem with any of the components in the system because of this.
 

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