Stereo installed now no dash lights...crap

[MAX1MVS]

OK, I just installed a new stereo on my 94 Monty, as the stocker took a dump on me. Everything works....except when I turn on the headlights I get zero dash lights. The clock and stereo dim as they should, but my Gear indicator (it's an automatic) and 4wheel drive indicating lights go out...not good for night driving. Any ideas as to what went wrong.
I know that the wiring harness has 2 illumination wires but the head unit has only 1.

Any help would be greatly appreciated....

Thanks in advance.

 

[The Stray]

I think the second illumination wire you saw was a dimmer wire, if you put them both in the same clump it will short out your dash lights. Just remove the dimmer wire, use less thing imho, all it does is dim the head unit when your headlights go on.

 

[MAX1MVS]

That was my first thought as well, tried it but no go...the issue remains. Sucky, I suppose my next step is to completely remove the unit and see if my dash lights come on...man I hate electrical crap.

 

[The Stray]

I know, electrical gremlins suck. I'd try removing the non-speaker related wires one by one till either they are all out or the dash lights come back on. There is the rare chance that a wire might be mislabeled or that you misread the coding. When I replaced my head unit I screwed up the power antenna and the antenna input wire, took me about 3 hours to do the install 1.5 to figure out why my antenna wasn't rising up lol.

 

[MAX1MVS]

Update....

OK, so I have gone through and checked every damned fuse and none are blown. I also disconnected the stereo's wiring harness so that there was no pull and the problem persists. I get my idiot lights and turn signals to show, but my dash lights are non existent, which makes for some guess work on speed when driving at night.

Any ideas or suggestions?

 

[The Stray]

Could there be another fuse in the power line that wouldn't be in the fuze blocks?
Only thing I can think of.

 

[DaJudge]

You also probably have no tail lights. They are usually on the same circuit. Find the fuse for the taillights. If you have a multimeter test the fuse rather than just eyeballing it.

 

[MAX1MVS]

I will check the Tail lights tonight.

 

[MAX1MVS]

Tail lights are present and functioning.

 

[MAX1MVS]

You also probably have no tail lights. They are usually on the same circuit. Find the fuse for the taillights. If you have a multimeter test the fuse rather than just eyeballing it.

I've never used a multimeter so any instruction is appreciated...thanks

 

[MAX1MVS]

Is it possible for a fuse to be slightly blown? Everything I check leads me to a fuse option, but I was under the understanding that either a fuse is working or it isn't.

 

[scrubber3]

It's not possible... But then again, anything is possible... I'd say check the bulbs in the dash and those connections. pull out the dash, and check it out.

 

[BigAl]

I've never used a multimeter so any instruction is appreciated...thanks

A multimeter is a great tool to have. Buy one, it should/may have a "12V" setting on the dial. Set it to that and check your battery to figure out how it works, red to red , black to black. Once you see 12-13 volts on the meter at your battery, you'll have figured out how to use it. When checking for hot wires under the dash, the red lead from the VM goes on the wire and the black lead must be grounded to something metal on the body. If you see 12-13 volts the wire is hot.

To check fuses, there will be continuity setting on the VM. touch each side of the fuse (red one side, black the other). If the fuse is good, you will have continuity and there will likely be a beep or digital display.

This is kind of a lame description but it should get you started

 

[off-roader]

A multimeter is a great tool to have. Buy one, it should/may have a "12V" setting on the dial. Set it to that and check your battery to figure out how it works, red to red , black to black. Once you see 12-13 volts on the meter at your battery, you'll have figured out how to use it. When checking for hot wires under the dash, the red lead from the VM goes on the wire and the black lead must be grounded to something metal on the body. If you see 12-13 volts the wire is hot.

To check fuses, there will be continuity setting on the VM. touch each side of the fuse (red one side, black the other). If the fuse is good, you will have continuity and there will likely be a beep or digital display.

This is kind of a lame description but it should get you started

Usually it will have a set of dc settings like .200VDC, 2VDC, 20VDC, 200VDC, etc. You want to pick the voltage just above the voltage you plan to measure to get the most accurate reading. Be sure you don't select the ohms (Greek omega character shaped like a horse shoe) or amps setting or you will not see the correct reading.

Red lead will go where the plus voltage terminal is and the black goes to ground (directly to your metal chassis).

Sometimes there ISN'T a continuity setting or beep so instead you use the ohms setting and set the reading range to ~10 ohms or so. When you measure the fuse it should show 0 ohms resistance.

 

[scrubber3]

I think I still have my electrical systems introduction textbook if you want to use it. It shows you everything you need to know about testing electrical systems with a volt meter and how to use it. I can ship it to you if you ship it back when you are done. PM me for more details.