Unusual Problem with Track Bar on XJ

[Maximus Ram]

OK, so this is the second time I have had the tie rod end on my track bar on the XJ snap in two.
I have a 4.5" lift and a Rusty's drop track bar to compensate. But it seems to snap the tie rods.
Has anyone had a similar experience ?
I'm wondering if I need to get a drop track bar bracket, but 90 bucks is alot of $$. And would this cure the problem...or maybe change to a heim or johnny joint...

Matt

 

[bigredcherokee]

I ran both Rustys drop bracket and HD Track bar and never had a problem with it. I wouldn't go heim joint b/c eventualy dirt will get in and eat them up. I alwasy go with a greasable unit.

 

[ExpoMike]

I have read about people having problems with the Rusty's one and some other that end up binding and breaking joints, bending rods, etc.

Personally I would not go with any brand that did not offer a frame mount and joint that wasn't in the rotational plane going up and down. There is not that much fore and aft movement so I never could understand the stock method (or others based on the stock one).

For me, I found the TnT (now Treks) one about a beef and robust as you can get. It uses a stock type rubber bushing at the axle (to keep vibration down) and a Johnny Joint at the frame. There frame bracket is about a bullet proof as a piece of metal can be. Not the cheapest out there but it's a one time buy and I don't like to have cheap parts break in the middle of nowhere.

http://www.tntcustoms.com/page.asp?pageid=99

My .02 worth.

 

[Maximus Ram]

Hmmm...maybe I'll drop by RE,since its around the corner, and see what they can recommend. I see that they have a bracket and a greasable flex joint.

 

[OverlandZJ]

Never heard of the TRE issue on Rusty's TB, have seen numerous threads where the welds broke however. I agree with Mike, A trackbar/bracket assembly designed in double shear makes much more sense.

RE's another good product, mine has only needed a rebuild once. I broke the RE bracket on the heim jointed TB, go with the HD johnny joint style.

 

[DaJudge]

I have the HD RE one and it has been issue free for 4 years. Plus, as was mentioned, they are rebuildable.

 

[Maximus Ram]

So I stopped by RE at lunch and apparently I can't use their flex joint with the Rustys TB, so I will need to save up and replace the Rustys TB with an RE HD TB and drop bracket set up. I was looking at the other TB that uses the stock bracket, but I figure I better just bite the bullet and get the one I'll ultimately end up with.
AS they say Just Empty Every Pocket..:elkgrin:

 

[alosix]

So I stopped by RE at lunch and apparently I can't use their flex joint with the Rustys TB, so I will need to save up and replace the Rustys TB with an RE HD TB and drop bracket set up. I was looking at the other TB that uses the stock bracket, but I figure I better just bite the bullet and get the one I'll ultimately end up with.
AS they say Just Empty Every Pocket..:elkgrin:

Sounds like a good plan. The only real solution I've found for 5 link Jeep front ends is that setup. I've worn out and seen too many worn out TRE's when used in that placement on a wheeled Jeep.

the RE1600 isn't bad, though it requires some drilling to install. It too tends to wear out its joints pretty quickly as well though. I used to sell a ton of 'rebuild kits' for those.

Though, i personally enjoyed the day when I got all of the Rusty's crap off of my TJ.

 

[Maximus Ram]

I'm actually looking at the 1660 TB and heavy duty bracket, not the 1600. I was going to go the 1600 route, but decided to hopefully make my second fix the last one for this.

 

[alosix]

I'm actually looking at the 1660 TB and heavy duty bracket, not the 1600. I was going to go the 1600 route, but decided to hopefully make my second fix the last one for this.

Def go with the 1660 setup on an XJ (1610 on a TJ).

Also, if you find the the bar is actually too long (they come a little long) you can knock up to 1" off the threaded section and still be ok. Works good if you are a little shorter (my TJ @ 4" required that)

Keep an eye on the bump steer after install though. It does lower the mount point a little, which could affect things and require a slight DPA. Its about a perfect match to the ORO U-turn though

 

[Maximus Ram]

Def go with the 1660 setup on an XJ (1610 on a TJ).

Also, if you find the the bar is actually too long (they come a little long) you can knock up to 1" off the threaded section and still be ok. Works good if you are a little shorter (my TJ @ 4" required that)

Keep an eye on the bump steer after install though. It does lower the mount point a little, which could affect things and require a slight DPA. Its about a perfect match to the ORO U-turn though

DPA ?? not sure of this acronym.

 

[OverlandZJ]

DPA ?? not sure of this acronym.

Dropped Pitman Arm

 

[Maximus Ram]

Oh. Have that already. Thanks.

 

[alosix]

Oh. Have that already. Thanks.

Ah, then it might steer more 'normal' than it does with the Rusty's TB

 

[Maximus Ram]

Ya, it basically has a whole new steering set up. We have changed out everything. From the Pitman Arm to shocks to hubs and everything in between while chasing DW on it. After balancing and rotating the tires a couple of time, I tried a new set on the front from my daughters ZJ and it was fine. So as a last ditch effort, I put the backs on the front and versa visa and the DW seems to be gone. So after all that, now the TB tie rod end wants to start giving out. But whatchagonnado when you own a 17 year old XJ....keep on fixing it.:sombrero: