Search results

As mentioned, I get about 5 minutes of continuous water on 'shower' mode, and using the open jet nozzle I can empty the tank in 3.5 minutes. You can also see where the license plate was relocated to, to create the spigot location.

Fitting the pump into the sub cavity was a little tedious with the plumbing and wiring, but after about 5 minutes I was able to get it seated and bolted in. I epoxied some t-nuts to the HPDE pump mount.

With the nozzle on 'shower' mode, I get 7.5 gallons of usable water at just over 5 minutes of continuous use. Should be plenty for the beach runs. I would guess the bumper can hold somewhere between 8 and 9 gallons - but not all of it will hit the pickup fitting. I'm extremely happy with the way...

The spigot panel is coming along nicely. After some test fitting and sanding I went ahead and epoxied the panel to the spigot, creating one singular component. Before expoxy, I lined the threads with plumbers tape and wrench tightened the fitting to the valve. All that's left with this is to...

The wiring is done. I have a fused power wire from the battery. The grounding jump wires for the switch and pump lead. The power lead to the pump. And a tap to the taillight for the switch LED to illuminate when the lights are switched on. I also did quick disconnects for the pump leads in case...

Progress Sealing the bumper with JB WaterWeld and JB Quick Set Epoxy. Test fit of the pump. 90 degree elbow fittings will be used for the hose connects. Test fitment of the hose run from the passenger quarter panel. Expected location for the switch. Mock up and build of the...

Being in Florida, we make many beach runs and dive trips throughout the year. Running water to wash off salt, sand, sunscreen lotion, and gear has long been on my to do list. I finally got around to this project, with a different approach than I have seen most others take – which is why I am...

Yeah, good thought.

Thanks Jeff - makes sense.

Jeff - this is great information; thank you kindly (as always)! I assume it is appropriate to have the body side lip be close in (or exactly) the same width as the glass (in your case, 1/4"). About how much space do you leave between the body lip and the glass? I would assume very little, but...

Hi Jeff - I am slowly making progress on this project; I finally have the fiberglass mold of the factory rear window completed. I have a few questions about the glass. I understand from your post that the glass is basically 1/4" safety glass. From what I could tell safety glass is typically used...

ACE offers 'everything but the rack' for this product for $250+shipping. You can then build your own aluminum rack using components from https://www.tnutz.com/ . I am in the process of this. For a few hundred bucks (or much less, depending on the design) in aluminum and the stout base components...

Good to know, thanks!

Thanks! I think I have it worked out in my head how I will be designing a frame for flat glass and incorporating it to the hatch mold - a topic of discussion for another day, I am sure. I have two tops, one already cut to make modular and one 'whole' top. I am looking to clear space out and want...

Hi Jeff - question for you. I am looking make a fiberglass copy of the rear hatch glass. I have all of the hardware removed from the glass (it's bare) and I have my materials... my question is, did you line the glass with something (rows of tape, parchment paper, plastic sheeting, etc.) before...

Thanks. I was actually thinking of making replacement opaque panels, not glass for the side window locations. Something similar to your storage solutions, etc.

Thanks Jeff. Regarding the new model hard top, I actually covered that with you in your barn door thread some time back, ha! I will likely have more questions when I get to that stage of this process, but for now I do understand that the hinge will need to be in line with the window edge (what...

I was able to get the panels cut - pretty easy process. Thanks again for your instructions! I will probably have to put this project on hold for a few weeks, but something I have been pondering, and I would appreciate your thoughts... did you consider going with a tool-less quick release...

Thanks, that makes sense and I can visualize what you've done with your custom top on the factory top. I'll be working on this project slowly, but will report back my progress/questions as I can. Thanks again!

Thanks for the quick reply! Makes sense. Did you do any flange work in the "l-shaped" area or some work to seal the panels? I wouldn't expect any clamping hardware, but perhaps a flange and gasket. A picture from the backside of this would be awesome if you're able to snap one easily. And...