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What mods did you do to fit 35s? I assume cutting the front frame horns & folding the rear pinch weld. Anything more extreme than that? are you running spacers? Is your lift with just IID tool or are you also using rods?

LR3/LR4 aren't THAT exotic anymore. Most shops could take care of them. Or, crack the workshop manual open yourself. I spent a couple years thinking the next repair would put me over the top and I'd need to get a 4Runner or something. But now that I've been doing all my own work, I can't see...

1. Disconnect the battery ground cable. For additional information, refer to 2 . Remove the engine cover. 6mm hex captive bolts 1/4 turn 3 . Release the electrical connectors from the engine cover brackets. 4. Remove the 4 nuts. 10mm hex holding the engine cover brackets. 5. Remove the wiring...

@Victory_Overland , Yep. Independent shop. I forget the techs name but he was very helpful answering questions on the phone before I mailed in my injectors. I was debating getting new fuel injectors but decided that reconditioned OEM would be better than going aftermarket or spending hundreds...

I took my injectors out and sent them to Hurst Injector Service in Fitchburg, MA. All in cost was ~$130. He sends a full diagnostic report showing before and after flow and pattern. My fuel economy went back to like new 17mpg+ once i had this service done. It also resolved various Bank too lean...

In the Service/Test>Suspension>Test Values menu you can manually raise lower the whole truck, single axles, or single wheels. I don't know how long those values would stick. You may need to disable EAS as well so it doesn't reset if you need to start the truck for something.

All fixed! New shaft cleared up all the slack in the wheel. Now the steering is light and very responsive! The OEM part LR071147 is pictured here: The bad part is here. I couldn't find a part number on it. The original steering shaft was seized at the U joint causing the steering to feel...

Confirmed. It is the intermediate shaft causing the dead zone in the steering. I was able to remove the non-oem part i recently installed last night and found that I could twist it a few degrees by hand. I pulled the two pieces apart and found that the shim/bushing plates used between the two...

Yeah. It’s not that. All new fluid. Play in the wheel when running. Even elevated the front wheels. I can shake the steering wheel and the tires don’t move. New OEM intermediate shaft time I think.

Hi All - I have a 2005 LR3 with 185K miles. I recently replaced the steering intermediate shaft because the lower U joint in it was seized and causing the steering to feel reallly heavy and lumpy. Anyway. I replaced the shaft with an aftermarket one since it was 1/3 the price of OEM and there...

I also have 3/4" hub centric spacers so this is probably why I needed to do more mods to my wheel wells than would normally be required by a 31.5" tire at stock height. The resulting extra ~30-40mm of overall track width are probably helping a lot with my stability at highway speed. I also made...

I think the magnaflow kit looks pretty good. If anything in my exhaust fails I will be going with that as the replacement. Just make sure you use the tucked exhaust tips! The quad output option that hangs below the bumper looks stupid.

... Yeah. A <1.5" lift is totally poser. ******? I'm on 31.5" tires. Proportions look better and clearances are better with ~1" in the rear and ~1.5" in the front. I still had to clearance the rear pinch welds, Move the left front brake sensor wire to the top of the frame, trim the fender liners...

I think you can go up to +55mm

I have 31.5" tires. I set my everyday ride hieght at +40mm front and +25mm rear to give it plenty of clearance for the bigger rubber and to level out the stock racked stance.

Yeah, just disconnect the battery. I let it sit for 5 minutes after and had no issue. I didn't have an airbag tool but i was able to make do with a straightened clothes hanger with a tight hook bent onto the end. Once you have the airbag loose all the connectors and screws are pretty obvious. 4...

I had the same issues. I removed the airbag and then took the control panels out of the wheel. then used a bit of SOS pad and some rubbing alchohold to clean off the copper contacts. Reassembled and it works perfect again.

Don't buy anything pre-2006 for the L322, it will grenade. Probably best to stay away from the supercharged models too unless you're looking at a 2010+ with a 5.0L. Other thoughts: I don't know how handy you are, but if you take trips to Home Depot more than twice a month I would stick to the...

Nope. The 4.4L in 2002-2005 L322s was the carryover from the BMW days which is why they all grenade at 80K.

Are they Hub centric? If yes, are you going to need hubrings to get them to the correct 72.56? The amazon page makes no mention.