2002 International 4300 Ambulance

qcdstick

Member
Haven't updated in a while, although I could have swore I had more recently than two years ago! Time flies, but we have been using the rig quite a lot with (knock on wood) no real issues to speak of. More power would be nice, it's a bit of a dog with a big trailer, but gets the job done eventually with no complaints. Unfortunately, seems the DT466E, while a great reliable motor that should run forever, is the one version of the DT466 with next to zero options for power adders. Even though the engine internals can handle quite a bit, the aftermarket never materialized for the early computer controlled injection engines. Otherwise it is fulfilling it's job of being a tow rig / camper for race weekends extremely well.

Have gone camping (glamping?) a few times which is something neither my wife nor I had done or considered doing before the ambulance. We go with friends, usually towing their travel trailer and share one camp spot while the girls drive another vehicle which we can then use for day trips. Plenty of space to hang out, and each couple can go back to their own space at the end of the day. More fun than I thought it would be We moved away from the air mattress quite a while ago in favor of a fouton style mattress. Still allows us to fold it in half and stash it above the bench (the seatbelts designed to strap a prone patient work perfect for securing it that way) and use the full 4x12' floor for hauling stuff. Most recently we put 4 bicycles and a tow behind bike trailer in there, unloading them and setting up the bed is a 5 min deal so it works quite well.

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Have also been using it as a tailgate rig quite a bit in the fall after race season. There are actually quite a few retired ambulances used for this around the tailgate lots, it works well.

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qcdstick

Member
A couple things I have done modification wise:

After a couple longer trips, it became apparent that the noise was going to be an issue. Not that you notice it so much on short trips (it's loud, like any MDT), but after 2+ hours on the road and switching off the engine your ears definitely let you know that you've been doing bad things to them. Another semi-related problem is the factory stereo is terrible. We put in a bluetooth speaker, but that too had to be turned up so high to be heard over the truck that it just made the problem worse. I considered gutting the cab and putting sound deadening everywhere, which is a fair amount of cost and a ton of work. And after that, I'd want to upgrade the stereo... New head unit, speakers, which would probably mean modifying panels to get ones that aren't comically small, etc etc. All doable, but a big project to be sure, and would cost at least a couple grand all said and done plus time. Instead, I had a bit of an epiphany after my wife got a pair of noise cancelling bose headphones that were surprisingly reasonably priced. If I could figure out a way to integrate those somehow, we could kill 2 birds with 1 stone. All that would be required would be some kind of intercom system, preferably with a line in for music!

Seemed simple, but like many things didn't turn out to be quite so easy.
- My first thought was to see what was on the market for emergency crews, you often see firefighters with headphone setups for communication (and hearing protection) on the loud fire trucks. Didn't end up finding out anything easy / affordable there, and most of the new stuff has gone wireless which I wanted to avoid. I'd rather deal with a wire and a plug far into the future, than mess with batteries, pairing, interference on channels, and whatever else... not to mention the cost, not cheap.
- My second idea was to use an aviation intercom unit like pilots use in small (and large) aircraft. I even discovered I had a friend who was getting into flying who had an old portable one given to him that I could play with! Long story short, while designed to do exactly what we want to do, aviation is it's own world. Standards were developed 80 years ago and never changed, even though the rest of the world moved on. As a result, it turns out the impedance used on their headphones is from the early days of the telephone switchboard headsets, which everyone else in the world has long since moved on from. This goes for the speakers in the headset, but more critically the type of microphone as well. I tried making adapters, playing with various amps and things, but it isn't a simple straightforward conversion between the two, and it just didn't work properly. By the time I could get the mic to trigger from talking, it was blowing out my eardrums with feedback. Of course, we could have bought aviation headsets, but anything aviation is needlessly expensive... active sound cancelling headsets can easily run 1k each. Not to mention, by using normal headsets, we have the added benefit of being able to use them for all the normal uses (flying, at my computer, whatever else), so diving into the aviation setup was a no-go.

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- My third, and ultimately successful idea, was to use a motorcycle intercom. Now, the problem with these, is two fold: They also aren't designed for typical headphone / mics, but rather a mic and speaker planted in the helmet, and each manufacturer likes to make proprietary stuff. Also, about 10 years or so ago, they all went wireless, and finding old school wired units that weren't well used and built into an old motorcycle was a bit challenging. I ended up finding an old new stock Autocom Kit 300 on Ebay and taking a gamble on that. At this point, I just wanted this idea to work on principle, and was ready to roll the dice. This kit of course uses (more or less) proprietary connectors to the headsets, but already was setup for various aux inputs (music, phone, GPS, etc) which all used the standard 1/8" headphone jacks. Also important, is it had individual volume adjustments for driver, passenger, various inputs, mic trigger sensitivity, etc. because it is designed to be used with motorcycles which is a VERY noisy and variable environment depending on the bike, wind direction, speed of travel... In any case, all the hard stuff was done, and best of all the unit is very compact and set up for 12v power. All that was left to do was to make some adapters from 1/8" headphone/mic combo jacks to the proprietary ones the kit uses. Thankfully, the kit came with enough things that I had some cables I could sacrifice without hacking up the wiring in the unit itself. After some testing and ordering a few parts it was time to try it out...

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Success! The impedances and things the mic and speakers used in the kit that once wired up to a standard pair of headphones, and some small adjustments to various levels, it just works! My wife and I can listen to music at a comfortable (frankly, rather quiet) volume and hear it cleanly, and speak normally to each other at will. The most I've had to do was speak up a little bit at times to trigger the mic to kick in, but once it does you can speak very quietly and it stays active until you stop. The noise canceling does a great job of knocking down the road noise and turbo whine, to where now when we stop for gas and take the headphones off, the truck is shockingly loud even at idle. It has made traveling SO much nicer, and I think we arrive much more rested as well. And to those who (rightfully) might be concerned about the over the ear headphones in a moving vehicle, they really only cancel out the regular noises... steady patterns like the engine, road noise, etc. Other noises seem to come through just fine (emergency sirens, honks, etc.) because the noise canceling system isn't great at those anyway. And because our ears are adjusted to the low volume environment, the db loss from the over the ear foam itself isn't enough to prevent us hearing things we need to hear.

All in all, I took care of both the noise issue of the truck, and listening to music at a reasonable volume, for under $200 for the autocom and fittings. He headphones run about $220 each (Bose QC 35 gaming headsets) but sometimes are on sale for less, and as I said before we use them for lots more than in the ambulance. It's all hardwired in so no issue with interference. We generally just listen to music from our phones, but we could run an input from another source (such as a radio) if we wanted, although I don't see that happening. I really don't see a need to worry about sound insulation in the cab anymore other than I do feel a bit bad for the dog who for some reason refuses to wear headphones.
 

qcdstick

Member
Simple one, but after using the ambulance so much, we decided to pull the trigger on a 12v cooler. After reading online, Alipicool came up a lot as an affordable cooler good for people who weren't living in their rigs full time to justify a dometic or what have you. So, I pulled the trigger on a Alpicool TW55 for $400. When the unit arrived, it all felt a lot cheaper in terms of construction than what I was expecting / hoped for. After letting the unit stand overnight, I plugged it in the following day to be greeted with a LOUD compressor noise that got only marginally better after a day or so. A defective compressor happens, but that couple that with the overall cheap feel and frankly wonky controls (far easier to use the app than get the on unit buttons to do logical things) I just decided to return it and get something better.

Ended up going with an ICECO VL60 and I have to say, the difference is night and day. The unit feels MUCH more solid, and while no bluetooth connectivity (oh darn) the buttons and things just work like they should, simple to use. At $900 it's a big step up in price as well, but seems totally worth it to me.

I was ALMOST too optimistic with my measurements for the intended space. Had to cut back the shelf standards so they no longer went all the way to the floor just to get the cooler in the space, and even then had the power plug not been where it was it wouldn't have been enough, and it JUST clears the door handle which was blind luck. To be clear, the measurements listed for the cooler seemed to be accurate, I just cut things VERY close. However, it DID fit, so I prefer to think of it like it was made to be there! With the tight fit, I don't need to worry about securing it as it isn't going anywhere.

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Having it in this location just inside the door is very nice, because we can grab a beer or whatever from outside without having to even enter the vehicle.

I had the common issue of voltage drop with the 12v cigarette lighter connection, causing the fridge to not run off battery power. It would have 12.8 volts at the fridge, the compressor would try to start, and it would draw the voltage down to 10 volts and the compressor would shut off for battery protection. At which point, the voltage went back up, and the cycle repeated. Ended up converting it to SAE quick connects and running 10ga to a major junction near the batteries which took care of the issue. Voltage drop from the compressor starting went down to a few tenths of a volt at the fridge. Very happy!
 

qcdstick

Member
Another issue is the seats in this thing became quite uncomfortable after several hours. A lot of it is because you are forced to sit very upright in the standard cab which I can't do a lot about. However, they probably weren't the best seats in general when they went in and 20 years of use surely hadn't done them any favors. I was parting out / scrapping a 1997 BMW 5 series, so I figured why not try and make those seats work?

So, I began work on mocking up an adapter plate to allow me to mount the wider based BMW seats to the air ride platform. I found a piece of particle board shelving, and went to measuring, cutting, drilling until I got things about where I wanted them.

Here is the air ride platform with the seat removed.

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Here are things after I had the mock up more or less where I wanted it. You can see the older gray cloth seat that came in the truck still installed on the driver's side.

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Once I had things right I had a couple pieces of 1/4" steel plate cut out to shape. Each plate probably weighs 30lbs, but as it will now be the only thing holding the seat to the truck I didn't want to skimp. The BMW full power seats turned out to be at least that much heavier than the cloth ones I pulled out as well so I ended up adding quite a bit of weight to the air ride platform.

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All drilled and fitted to the seat. The BMW seats are not centered between the sliders because of where the strong points were for mounting them in the unibody tub in the car (spread as wide as possible near the corners). The adapter is offset with a larger cantilever to the outside, but I still only had to make one part because flipping it over makes it work for the opposite side. I think I actually have it on backwards here for the seat it is bolted to but you get the idea.

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Wired up the electric seats to 12v power, and cut in an air switch (left) to adjust the height. I would have liked to have the switch in a more natural place, but of course that's where the BMW switchgear already was. Also, the air switch requires a fair bit of depth for the valving and air lines which limited options quite a bit also. In the end, having it here looks pretty good, and is easy to find rolling down the road with either hand by reaching behind, or reaching it across the chest as you would buckling the seatbelt, it's in that general area ergonomically speaking.

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Haven't had any chances to take any long trips, but have done a couple 3 hour ones and it is a big improvement. One thing these seats lack that the factory ones had is a fold down armrest attached on the inside. Time will tell how much that option is missed, and if I need to retrofit one somehow, but so far so good. Lots of adjustability in the seats, at least within the confines of what the cab will allow. Don't seem to have any pictures of the finished project, but you get the idea. Here is one of my dog at the track who seems to like them just fine.

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qcdstick

Member
I guess I only do updates every few years...

Well, 4+ years in and many race weekends later, I've put more than 12,000 miles on the rig, mostly towing a trailer. IA, IL, MI, WI, MN, MO areas mostly. On average I tend to get around 7.5MPG. The few times I've run with an open trailer or no trailer it's still under 8mpg so having 32' of box behind doesn't really affect much.

We like the rig enough that we thought it was finally time to do something about the corrosion causing a lot of the paint to flake off, especially under light penetrations, and on the lower and rearward bits especially. So, an attempt was made to sand down the corroded spots somewhat smooth and prime and a bit of filler here and there. After which, went with a wrap rather than paint. It's definitely not great up close, but MILES better than it was before and mostly you miss it if you aren't really looking. We left the paint as is on the cab and hood, trying to stick to wrapping the flat surfaces on the module only. Got the best color match we could for the vinyl, and tried working with the color lines already present on the cab for a design base. We carried some black vinyl stripes onto the cab part to help tie it together but otherwise the front is as it was.

We also finally pulled the trigger on a trailer of our own, so we kept the vinyl going onto the front of that as well!



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