Blue Sea Fuse Block wiring question...

[Riflman]

I'm just about to order a Blue Sea Fuse Block and am just wondering how many connection points I really need.

My Lightforce Lights currently are wired direct to the battery and each light has its own relay and inline fuse, but all are connected to the master on off switch on the dash. When I hook this up to the blue sea, should I be connecting each light to its own fused connection or can I just gang the terminals onto one and label it Driving Lights? There are three of them right now on the front bumper. I plan to add more lights on the roof rack and I'll fill up even a 12 connection fuse block right quick if I do each light separate plus my other accessories. I don't have a ton of room left inside for multiple fuse blocks either... Advice from the gurus? :elkgrin:

 

[barlowrs]

I am by no means an electrician, but I would just run one line from batt to fuse block, then fuse block to relay, then split it from the relay to both lights.

Though I could be wrong, so somoene else feel free to correct me.

 

[goodtimes]

It all depends on how you want to control them (all on/off together, on/off individually, . . . ), and how much power you can pull through each post on the fuse block.

I only run 2 lights, 100 watts each. Total of 200 watts, or 16.6 amps.

One post on the fuse block can handle (IIRC) 30 amps -- so I run both of my lights off of one post, and use one relay (thus they only operate as a pair).

You can run as many as you want on one circuit like that -- as long as you don't exceed the rating on the individual post or the overall rating for the fuse block.

Anything controlled by a different switch would typically be wired to a different post (thus, a different fuse).

 

[Riflman]

I had the wiring done for me originally, and for whatever reason, they have a relay for each light. These are the Lightforce XGT lights, so I think they take a lot of power to fire up, then the voltage drops to run them. Maybe that's why they need individual relays?? I'm not much an electrician either, but I did almost fry myself in 98. Got 7500 volts. Lost some hearing, could talk right for a while, vertigo. LOL. I'm mostly better now, but that messed me up for a while. Now I stay away from power as much as possible. :sombrero:

 

[Riflman]

It all depends on how you want to control them (all on/off together, on/off individually, . . . ), and how much power you can pull through each post on the fuse block.

I only run 2 lights, 100 watts each. Total of 200 watts, or 16.6 amps.

One post on the fuse block can handle (IIRC) 30 amps -- so I run both of my lights off of one post, and use one relay (thus they only operate as a pair).

You can run as many as you want on one circuit like that -- as long as you don't exceed the rating on the individual post or the overall rating for the fuse block.

Anything controlled by a different switch would typically be wired to a different post (thus, a different fuse).

That sounds good if it will work the same with lightforce. Have to check the amp ratings. Makes sense though. These three lights all operate on the same switch right now, and always will. I have other switches for the rest. This helps a lot. Thanks.

 

[flyingwil]

You have a couple of options. For wiring the LightForce Lights I would recommend a set up like the following minus the Diode:

Sorry it was the only pic I had uploaded...

IF you want to use the BlueSea in the mix, add the BlueSea where the Fuse is located and skip the tie from the battery to the fuse.

 

[Riflman]

You have a couple of options. For wiring the LightForce Lights I would recommend a set up like the following minus the Diode:

Sorry it was the only pic I had uploaded...

IF you want to use the BlueSea in the mix, add the BlueSea where the Fuse is located and skip the tie from the battery to the fuse.

Is the 12v input on this diagram for running to power only when the ignition is on? Mine is set to run the lights even if the truck is off and I like it that way so do I just omit that? It looks like each light draws 9 amps so I'd just be squeaking under the wire with 27 amps for three lights.

 

[Herbie]

Is the 12v input on this diagram for running to power only when the ignition is on? Mine is set to run the lights even if the truck is off and I like it that way so do I just omit that? It looks like each light draws 9 amps so I'd just be squeaking under the wire with 27 amps for three lights.

Can't tell for sure because this isn't a schematic, just a drawing, but it looks like the "12v input" on the drawing is the feed for the coil of the relay. It appears to go through the dash switch then back to the relay connector, so its probably the high side of the coil.

 

[Riflman]

Can't tell for sure because this isn't a schematic, just a drawing, but it looks like the "12v input" on the drawing is the feed for the coil of the relay. It appears to go through the dash switch then back to the relay connector, so its probably the high side of the coil.

Ummmm....

Now you lost me. :snorkel: