Body Lift for Disco

[Big D]

There are many advantages and disadvatages of a body lift.

I guess one of the advatages would be the increase in space for bigger tires (yes 32's not 40's) without altering the drivetrain geometry.

A disadvatage would be the slight complexity and stigma attached to them.

Yes, I do agree that this is an expedition site and so most vehicules here are used for that purpose. They are not mud boggers or rock crawlers. So when refering to bigger tires, I am refering to something around 32 inches. Remember with body lift, you are increasing the potential for uptravel (not shock but just tire contact) by a factor of 2. Basically, you would need a spring lift twice the height of the body lift to achieve the same clearance.

Since most agree a 31 inch tire clears on a stock Disco no problem but a 32 inch rubs. That rub essentially comes from 1/2 inch extra height of the tire (increase divided by 2). So a 1 inch body lift would be perfect in clearing 32's while not altering any drivetrain or suspension geometry.

As many said I would still do a small suspension lift 1 to 2 inches max. Preferably closer to 1 inch. This would be just to lift the undercarriage from obstacles.

So for me, and this is just my opinion, the perfect lift truck combo would be 1 inch body lift, and a 1 inch suspension lift with 32 inch tires. But as with everything it's always a compromise. Springs are more readily available and a little easier to install than a body lift, so it would probably be 2 inch lift with 32's.

 

[David Harris]

Brave soul, Big D! I agree. If you're going with a body lift, you've got to keep it small. Too bad they're all made of aluminum. Any out there that are made of hard rubber/poly for a Disco? Thinking of cushioning and flex. When I do my Isuzu 4BD1T swap into the 95 Disco next year, I'm possibly looking at a small body lift, and/or preferably increasing the bumpstops to clear the motor a little more.

David

 

[SeaRubi]

worked for me. :sombrero:

 

[Antichrist]

A disadvatage would be the slight complexity and stigma attached to them.

Complexity. Slightly more than a <=2" suspension lift. A lot less that >=3" lift.
Stigma. Why do people need validation from others on what they decide to do to their own vehicle?

Too bad they're all made of aluminum. Any out there that are made of hard rubber/poly for a Disco?

Why does adding additional space require more cushioning than the normal rubber body isolators? You've lost me.

 

[David Harris]

Why does adding additional space require more cushioning than the normal rubber body isolators? You've lost me.

I'm just thinking of replacing the stock rubber body mounts with the lift. I've never run a body lift, but I take it from your response that you run the lift on top of the stock body mounts?

David

 

[Antichrist]

At least with the RTE kit (and DAP kit as far as I know) all the components are sized to allow for increasing the spacing by 2". If you remove the rubber isolators you're removing 1"+ of the overall spacing and I don't think the rest of the parts would fit.
I can't think of any rational reason for removing the rubber isolators when you fit a body lift.

 

[David Harris]

At least with the RTE kit (and DAP kit as far as I know) all the components are sized to allow for increasing the spacing by 2". If you remove the rubber isolators you're removing 1"+ of the overall spacing and I don't think the rest of the parts would fit.
I can't think of any rational reason for removing the rubber isolators when you fit a body lift.

Doesn't having those all stacked up weaken the connection any? That's my only concern.

 

[Big D]

It probably might weaken the structure a little bit, but I think it would have to do more with the tortional torque that is generated on the longer bolts. So the longer the bolts, the stronger they should be.

By the way is lucky8 the only ones that make it for a D2. And has anyone installed this kit?

 

[mongosd2]

That should really say a lot about body lifts on a D2. Guy's put them on D1's to fit a larger tire because the wheelwell is very small. On a D2, 35's will fit in the wheelwell with no trimming, just a lift

 

[AxeAngel]

I'm just thinking of replacing the stock rubber body mounts with the lift. I've never run a body lift, but I take it from your response that you run the lift on top of the stock body mounts?

David

Tom has said it many times, he runs the aluminum spacers in addition to the stock rubber bushings.

He's done it for 150k miles. No issues.

-Sam

 

[Viggen]

Brave soul, Big D! I agree. If you're going with a body lift, you've got to keep it small. Too bad they're all made of aluminum. Any out there that are made of hard rubber/poly for a Disco? Thinking of cushioning and flex. When I do my Isuzu 4BD1T swap into the 95 Disco next year, I'm possibly looking at a small body lift, and/or preferably increasing the bumpstops to clear the motor a little more.

David

My how we have changed our tune. Now a body lift is okay? You seemed vehemently against the idea of any sort of body lift in the last thread. A body lift isnt going to completely change the ride conditions in your Disco like you are making it out. If we were leaf sprung, yes it would but having coils even things out a little bit. Ill take aluminum over plastic any day for strength and durability. Although, your plans will probably make for a terrible setup. Youre going to have to run seriously heavy duty springs (monstrous weight increase) and that motor is going to shake and be very loud so you might want to make your own out of something else.

Hold on, I dont understand your options with your motor swap. Increasing bump stops will not really add more clearance. Youre losing some suspension travel as youre going to contact the stops sooner (Im assuming youre doing this since that motor is much taller and heavier since it wasnt designed to be in a passenger vehicle) keeping the sump and axle away from each other. Robbing Peter to pay Paul if you ask me. Your other option is a body lift which will increase your motor to hood clearance as you will be "lowering" the mounting of the motor. Which is it? Less flex or more clearance? No matter which, youre still putting a motor in that weighs close to half a ton.

I would rather a motor that doesnt require a loss of off road ability or body modifications to fit. I would never put an engine in that sacrifices front end stability or flex for a few mpgs. Not worth it. You will need to create a monster so tall that skinny tires wont be an option (sorry) to retain flex like a normal truck with only a few inches can put up, especially if you have to extend bump stops. I dont get these swaps. Youre hanging 800lbs of crap in the nose of something that normally sees around 400 or so. Id love to see this thing off road when youre done. I bet itll create some seriously scary moments. Slick downhills or off camber moments where the shear nose heaviness of the thing takes hold and tugs you around like a pull toy.

 

[David Harris]

My how we have changed our tune. Now a body lift is okay? You seemed vehemently against the idea of any sort of body lift in the last thread. A body lift isnt going to completely change the ride conditions in your Disco like you are making it out. If we were leaf sprung, yes it would but having coils even things out a little bit. Ill take aluminum over plastic any day for strength and durability. Although, your plans will probably make for a terrible setup. Youre going to have to run seriously heavy duty springs (monstrous weight increase) and that motor is going to shake and be very loud so you might want to make your own out of something else.

Hold on, I dont understand your options with your motor swap. Increasing bump stops will not really add more clearance. Youre losing some suspension travel as youre going to contact the stops sooner (Im assuming youre doing this since that motor is much taller and heavier since it wasnt designed to be in a passenger vehicle) keeping the sump and axle away from each other. Robbing Peter to pay Paul if you ask me. Your other option is a body lift which will increase your motor to hood clearance as you will be "lowering" the mounting of the motor. Which is it? Less flex or more clearance? No matter which, youre still putting a motor in that weighs close to half a ton.

I would rather a motor that doesnt require a loss of off road ability or body modifications to fit. I would never put an engine in that sacrifices front end stability or flex for a few mpgs. Not worth it. You will need to create a monster so tall that skinny tires wont be an option (sorry) to retain flex like a normal truck with only a few inches can put up, especially if you have to extend bump stops. I dont get these swaps. Youre hanging 800lbs of crap in the nose of something that normally sees around 400 or so. Id love to see this thing off road when youre done. I bet itll create some seriously scary moments. Slick downhills or off camber moments where the shear nose heaviness of the thing takes hold and tugs you around like a pull toy.

I'm not sure if a body lift will be necessary yet. Roving Beetle apparently didn't need one on his D2 swap with the same motor. The bump stops are to give it a little more clearance for the oil pan, but that also may not be necessary, using the extra-heavy duty OME 110 springs on the front. As far as the swap, you may not know that LR put these motors in Defenders from new all through the 80's in Australia. Go on the Australia Land Rover Owner's Forum and you will find many Defenders, Range Rovers and Discovery's with this motor and they love them over there. It's a highly popular swap. The motor itself is only a little over 200 lbs heavier than the 300 Tdi, about as much as a heavy bumper and winch. The advantages are a lot stronger, more powerful and reliable motor than the 300 Tdi. It is like having the power of a 4.6 V8 with 25 mpg economy. I'm building this truck for extended trips where I will be carrying a lot more fuel and gear than otherwise, so it will not be imbalanced when loaded up.

 

[Viggen]

I'm not sure if a body lift will be necessary yet. Roving Beetle apparently didn't need one on his D2 swap with the same motor. The bump stops are to give it a little more clearance for the oil pan, but that also may not be necessary, using the extra-heavy duty OME 110 springs on the front. As far as the swap, you may not know that LR put these motors in Defenders from new all through the 80's in Australia. Go on the Australia Land Rover Owner's Forum and you will find many Defenders, Range Rovers and Discovery's with this motor and they love them over there. It's a highly popular swap. The motor itself is only a little over 200 lbs heavier than the 300 Tdi, about as much as a heavy bumper and winch. The advantages are a lot stronger, more powerful and reliable motor than the 300 Tdi. It is like having the power of a 4.6 V8 with 25 mpg economy. I'm building this truck for extended trips where I will be carrying a lot more fuel and gear than otherwise, so it will not be imbalanced when loaded up.

A Defender is not a Disco. A D1 is not a D2. They are different. Add a bumper, winch and this motor and you will have to carry a serious amount of weight in the rear to balance it out. In Australia, there really arent any elevation changes. Its a lot of wide open, flat spaces and some water and mud. Nose heavy doesnt matter much out there. Again, youre making a judgment based on what people in other places are posting on the internet and not considering youre location. Here, in America, its a different thing. I guess if you are only going to overland and avoid heavy trails, it would be okay. Are you going to upgrade the running gear too? And before you say that Doug didnt need it, I might add that I dont think he actually took his off road. It was also sold rather quickly and the next owner had a trans failure (NV3550). I can understand wanting more power but not having to spring it so stiffly to create a terrible ride and a truck so nose heavy you have to run with a LOT (are you really going to carry 300+ lbs around?) of gear in the back to balance it out.

Topo Australia:

Topo USA:

Australia =/= USA

 

[David Harris]

A Defender is not a Disco. A D1 is not a D2. They are different. Add a bumper, winch and this motor and you will have to carry a serious amount of weight in the rear to balance it out. In Australia, there really arent any elevation changes. Its a lot of wide open, flat spaces and some water and mud. Nose heavy doesnt matter much out there. Again, youre making a judgment based on what people in other places are posting on the internet and not considering youre location. Here, in America, its a different thing. I guess if you are only going to overland and avoid heavy trails, it would be okay. Are you going to upgrade the running gear too? And before you say that Doug didnt need it, I might add that I dont think he actually took his off road. It was also sold rather quickly and the next owner had a trans failure (NV3550). I can understand wanting more power but not having to spring it so stiffly to create a terrible ride and a truck so nose heavy you have to run with a LOT (are you really going to carry 300+ lbs around?) of gear in the back to balance it out.

Front:

Motor = +250
Bumper and Winch = +200

Total = +450

Extra spare = +75
Extra water and fuel = +75
Roof Top Tent = + 200
HD Rear Bumper = +100

Total (not counting everything else I will be carrying) = +450

Easier to balance out than you think. Most of the people with Expo rigs on here are already carrying this much around and more. The thing I'm aiming at here is to be able to carry the gear and have a motor which can handle it with ease in stock tune = reliability. Plus have decent fuel mileage.

For the trans I'm going to use an NV4500 to get the super low first gear and overdrive, as well as the strength. HD everything in the axles and suspension.

This truck won't be used for running the Rubicon, or Moab or other really technical stuff. If I want to do that, I've got my other Disco.

BTW: This is supposed to be a body lift thread! I'll be starting a thread for this when I get started on it.

David

 

[Viggen]

Front:

Motor = +250
Bumper and Winch = +200

Total = +450

Hahaha! In what world does a 4BT or 4BD1T only weigh 250 lbs more than an all aluminum Rover V8? Fully dressed youre looking at around 900 lbs. BOPR V8 is around 350. I think you need to do more research. Post up on those Australian boards and find out what the real weights are.