Cool idea for battery and spare tire rack that goes underneath truck!

[magentawave]

Thank you everyone for your input.

I started this thread because I'm rebuilding my 82 Toyota Sunrader shorty motorhome. I totally gutted the interior to get rid of all the complicated factory crap and now I'm glassing in a total of 21 holes (!!!) in the sides and top that were for vents and compartments. I'm going to build a much simpler and more functional interior. I'm still not sure if I'll need two or three batteries and haven't decided on batteries that require venting which are much cheaper than the other batteries. Anyway, I'm open to and would appreciate any ideas for where to put my batteries.

Hmmm, that flush mounted box is giving me a few ideas.

I have been considering a flush mounted battery box like this> http://www.jfmco.com/shop/electrica...accessories/battery-box-flush-mount?cPath=162

 

[nosnerd]

gentleman brought in a battery to test last week...it was for his trolling motor..his son dropped it in the water..about 6 ft..he pulled it out after feeling guilty..


it was short.../0.8 volts....

 

[DaveNay]

gentleman brought in a battery to test last week...it was for his trolling motor..his son dropped it in the water..about 6 ft..he pulled it out after feeling guilty..


it was short.../0.8 volts....

Eh...how long was it under water? Did it hit a rock on the way down? Did one of the battery cables stay clamped while the battery went overboard while the boat was doing 40mph? :Wow1:

 

[SoCalMonty]

Please tell me why it looks like trouble?

Should you ever come up on a section of trail with an over abundance of rocks, you may well end up (1) high centering on your undercarriage rack, or (2) smashing the rack and whatever is on/in it. I've high centered plenty of times and I don't have anything extra under there. If you're rolling on 37's with a 6" body lift, you might be OK. Otherwise, your "expedition" routes may have to be carefully chosen to avoid having to drive over rocky terrain.

Here are a couple pictures from a CA thread posted the other day - this guy went out "expedition style" to explore an unknown trail...



...the only feasible way to do this would be to cut into the pan and split the heighth, half inside the body and half below. I just can't see the tradeoff in ground clearance as being worth that tiny amount of storage space. If I had to relocate my battery, it would go inside, boxed and vented.

My .02.

 

[BBsound]

If you are totally rebuilding the camper anyway, set the sealed batts in a tub in the floor with a removable section of floor to access the batts for service.
A hatch in the floor would be cool, have it sealed from the bottom and run a vent line out the top of the camper somehow.

 

[magentawave]

There is no way I'll ever put my Toyota motorhome into situations like SoCalMonty is doing in Post #19 because its not a 4 wheel drive and because its a motorhome (see attached photo). By the way, thats not my Toyota Sunrader in the photo but mine is just like it.

If I was to build a battery box inside the motorhome and vent it to the outside, what do you suggest I use to seal the removable battery compartment lid so it won't vent to the inside of the motorhome?

 

[LaOutbackTrail]

Should you ever come up on a section of trail with an over abundance of rocks, you may well end up (1) high centering on your undercarriage rack, or (2) smashing the rack and whatever is on/in it. I've high centered plenty of times and I don't have anything extra under there. If you're rolling on 37's with a 6" body lift, you might be OK. Otherwise, your "expedition" routes may have to be carefully chosen to avoid having to drive over rocky terrain.

Here are a couple pictures from a CA thread posted the other day - this guy went out "expedition style" to explore an unknown trail...
View attachment 180143

View attachment 180146
...the only feasible way to do this would be to cut into the pan and split the heighth, half inside the body and half below. I just can't see the tradeoff in ground clearance as being worth that tiny amount of storage space. If I had to relocate my battery, it would go inside, boxed and vented.

My .02.

On your montero, your fuel tank is where this storage solution is suggested to be placed. What's the difference?

 

[SoCalMonty]

On your montero, your fuel tank is where this storage solution is suggested to be placed. What's the difference?

Ummm...did you look at the pictures in the first thread?! It's not at all similar to our fuel tank placement...unless your fuel tank is 7" lower than mine!

 

[LaOutbackTrail]

Yes, I did.

Obviously the OP is interested in the idea of placing the battery in that area. He didn't ask for direct dimensions, a diagram, or a schematic to build one exactly the same as the one pictured. Instead, you take an idea, expound upon it and make it work for the benefit of you and your vehicle. In other words, instead of having the "why you shouldn't" approach, figure out the "how to do it" method.

Bickering aside.

On a Toyota RV like the one above, MagentaWave, I would have no reservations building it similarly to what you originally showed. However, the only difference I would suggest is to surround the front with expanded mesh to prevent rocks from destroying it. You'd also be wise to use marine grade hardware to prevent corrosion.

 

[mvbeggs]

Battery Box

Here's some shots of the battery box I built for my AT teardrop. I relocated the batteries from the front storage box to behind the axle.

The box is made to fold down for easy access and maintenance. I made the battery box from 10 gauge steel. I could have used thicker material, but I was trying to be weight conscious......for once.

View from the front- Battery box hinged up and bolted into position for travel:



View from the back of trailer- Battery box hinged down for maintenance:



View from the back of the trailer- Closer view of wiring and fuse block- (I pulled a few extra wires for future use)

 

[LaOutbackTrail]

Nice setup! I was planning a similar design in my trailer.

 

[SoCalMonty]

Yes, I did.

Obviously the OP is interested in the idea of placing the battery in that area. He didn't ask for direct dimensions, a diagram, or a schematic to build one exactly the same as the one pictured. Instead, you take an idea, expound upon it and make it work for the benefit of you and your vehicle. In other words, instead of having the "why you shouldn't" approach, figure out the "how to do it" method.

Bickering aside.

On a Toyota RV like the one above, MagentaWave, I would have no reservations building it similarly to what you originally showed. However, the only difference I would suggest is to surround the front with expanded mesh to prevent rocks from destroying it. You'd also be wise to use marine grade hardware to prevent corrosion.

And similarly, not knowing any details about his plans, I went with the example photos he posted - not knowing anything about the design or the installer's fabrication skills. If it's done in the manner the example depicts (again, all the info he gave was that photo) - then it's a terrible idea.

If it's raised a bit higher, which I already mentioned in my post, it would be fine.

If you'll notice, it's not until post #21 that he gives more pertinent information about his setup (that information being it's a 2WD motorhome).

It also looks VERY low to the ground. Without seeing pictures of the bottom, it's hard to say whether or not there's enough room under there. Clearly he can't do it like the FJC.

What's the bottom look like? It's all conjecture without knowing what you're working with!

 

[magentawave]

The Sunrader in the photo is similar to mine but mine won't sag like that when I'm done with it. There is lots of room underneath guys and the place where the spare tire is currently located on mine is in the same place its located in the photo of the batteries/spare tire rack.

I don't know how to weld but could probably fabricate the parts and then deliver them to a welder for assembly.

 

[magentawave]

Looks good! Did you build and weld that yourself? Do you put a bottle jack underneath it to lower and raise it back? I'm wondering how you lower it without it suddenly crashing down from the weight of the heavy batteries? Don't suppose you have drawings of it you could post here?

Here's some shots of the battery box I built for my AT teardrop. I relocated the batteries from the front storage box to behind the axle.

The box is made to fold down for easy access and maintenance. I made the battery box from 10 gauge steel. I could have used thicker material, but I was trying to be weight conscious......for once.

View from the front- Battery box hinged up and bolted into position for travel:
View attachment 183557


View from the back of trailer- Battery box hinged down for maintenance:
View attachment 183558


View from the back of the trailer- Closer view of wiring and fuse block- (I pulled a few extra wires for future use)
View attachment 183562

 

[mvbeggs]

AT Teardrop Underframe Battery Box

Looks good! Did you build and weld that yourself? Do you put a bottle jack underneath it to lower and raise it back? I'm wondering how you lower it without it suddenly crashing down from the weight of the heavy batteries? Don't suppose you have drawings of it you could post here?

Yea, built the box in my garage over a couple day span.

No bottle jack required, but it isn't light. The dangerous part is in the lowering. You would have a big surprise- and probably a headache- if you simply took out the bolts, without considering you are about to release a 125lb pendulum on your face. :Wow1: (that's why I put warning labels on the bottom of the box for the unaware....but really to remind myself too. LOL )

The box is hinged from the front, so you only have to control about 1/2 the weight of the batteries and box. It's high enough off the ground that you can actually use your legs to push it back up while you start the first bolt.

Sorry, no drawings. It was a measure, cut, check fit, trim, and repeat kind of operation. Basically it is just a 5 sided box, hinged from one side. The non hinged side attaches to the frame of the trailer using bolts and rivnut inserts.

The battery box has worked out well. It reduced a considerable amount of tongue weight and, so far, is no worse for the wear after 3,000+ miles of travel.

I was more than a little concerned with possible submersion during water crossings, but as stated earlier, it really isn't a concern.