Critique my Overland/Tow Superduty Build

the_new_nomad

15 F250 | 99 Montero | 84 Avion | Tiger 900
no, 1000 is right. most pyro gauges i've seen read in the 4-16 x100 range...so 400-1600. 10,000 degrees is many times hotter than even a nuclear reactor...i know you've got some engine mods done, but i don't think you are pushing THAT much power ;)

That I'm glad you cleared that up in my first month of diesel ownership before I embarrassed myself for much longer. For some reason I assumed x1000 on my gauge.

Regarding shocks, I would say save your money on the duals up front and just run single 2.5" diameter shocks all around. Big heavy trucks need big heavy duty shocks. are you looking for complete bolt in, or is some fab work required ok?

Some fab is okay. I'll be doing most of the bolt on myself where specialty tools aren't required. These guys are right down the road from me and will be doing all the fab stuff: http://sextonoffroad.com/. Hard to find the spec, but looks like the 2.0 icon's that I was looking at probably means 2 inch?
 

Sooper Camper

Adventurer
yup, thats generally how we refer to shocks in the off road industry. 2.0 = 2" body diameter, 2.5 = 2.5" and so on... it can get a little more technical than that but that is all you really need to know.

with big trucks you are trying to dissipate big forces. you can do it with one small shock valved stiff, which will fade fast and quickly be overwhelmed; you can double the shocks up, each with half the valving and effectively get the same result but with longer run time before fading and more difficulty in packaging; or you can run a single, large diameter shock which can be valved stiff and won't fade as quickly, but be easy to package too. bigger piston = larger damping curve that it can effectively cover, you can make it plush on the small stuff but still supportive on the harder hits. it really boils down to what you are planning to do with the truck and how fast you want to get there. you don't "technically" need shocks to drive fire roads at 5 mph if you know what I mean...
 

wallace2000

New member
1200 on EGTs is ok, from what ive learned 1250 sustained with short burst over is the most you want to do. The 7.3s are pretty good with keeping themselves cool, just make sure you allow it to cool down before shutdown when towing. As long as you keep an eye on the EGTs youll be ok. Sorry i do not know the EGTs before the intercooler swap, i didnt have gauges at that time. There is a brand of engine brake that uses the EBPV (exhaust back pressure valve) which is the stock valve, however using that as an engine brake is a much cheaper way to do it but can cause the EBPV to malfunction. I considered using that set up until i learned the downfall. The other option is a complete engine brake setup which installs on the exhaust side of the turbo between the turbo and the down pipe and has its own actuator and valve, downside to that is the price, give or take 1 000. Also forgot to comment on the ICON lift, that what i have on mine and i havent had a single problem, solid ride and retains the factory towing/payload capacity as far as i can tell
 

the_new_nomad

15 F250 | 99 Montero | 84 Avion | Tiger 900
Update

Done with phase 2 of the build and took 16 days off for some southern Utah exploration. Phase 1 was done by Diesel Tech Magazine. Phase 2 was done by me and included the below. Big thanks to Sexton Off Road for the ball joints, air compressor, and custom roof rack.

Rear bumper w/ 4 rigid dually lights
Softtopper
35 KO2 on 18" wheels
Roof rack with MTB mounts on each side
Fender flares
LineX rockers, grill, flares, and rear bumper
ARB high output air compressor
New guage pack
removed rear seat for added storage
Dynatrac balljoints
Hawk Superduty Pads / Cryo Slotted Rotors
Icon 4" Shocks, springs, steering kit
Firestone airbags with daystar mounts
Parted out a bunch of bolt ons

Phase three which will start next winter will be front and rear yukon air lockers, winch, larger fuel tank, and possibly aftermarket intercooler. Lots of other smaller mods / repairs to do in between that.

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402xjeeper

Observer
3.73 gears are ok, I like the rest of the build plan, I have driven 04 6.0 s since late 03, (same chassis etc). I also worked in the 4x4 aftermarket , I managed a 4x4 store with 3+ techs during the heyday of leaf sprung superdutys, and love the platform. 7.3s have do much low rpm grunt that with the right tune will love the 3.73s at anything that is not t [ far over the gcwr with 35"s. I am running 35" nitty trail grapplers on like dimension wheels, love them, but they wi) rub the spring hard at full lock because they are among the widest and tallest 35"s out there. Previously ran 35 xterrains on 16x10 4" backspace wheels, they did not rub the springs, but caught the airdam, and wheelwell back corner at full lock. Both trucks were lifted 4.5" in front.
 

the_new_nomad

15 F250 | 99 Montero | 84 Avion | Tiger 900
How are the Ko2s performing on the superduty? And the Icon leafs? That is the same setup I am looking to do

I strictly use this for overlanding and have only put about 3k miles on the truck since the build. Haven't gotten stuck yet so tires are performing well but I haven't really pushed them either. The only thing I can compare the icon package to is my stock raptor suspension. The icon is much stiffer and feels bouncy, as if the shocks don't dampen the springs enough. It may be great for a leaf setup and I just have unrealistic expectations.

A new job opportunity in CA may force me to purchase a CA compliant vehicle that I would use as my daily driver. So with that Big Blue might be up for sale this summer. Message me if you're interested and I'll keep your contact info on file.
 

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