Custom Pop-Up Truck Canopy - Help!?

2002tacomaPDX

New member
I'm hoping to modify my Leer fiberglass truck canopy and turn it into a pop-up. There's a ton of interest in pop campers, flip pacs, etc but I've never seen anyone do a simple conversion to their truck canopy. All I want is more head room when sleeping in the back of my rig, without having to buy a taller canopy or cab-over set up (which adds wind drag, height, weight, etc).

So here's my idea: Basically cut the top 2 or 3 inches off my existing canopy all the way around. Then reinforce around the cuts on the top piece ("cap") and the remaining canopy walls ("base") with 1x1 metal tubing or something similar. I'd basically weld a frame and rivet it inside the canopy. This would also provide a larger surface area for the cap to clamp down on when the canopy is closed up. I would use some foam tape around the opening between the cap so its water tight. Would sew some rubberized vinyl to fill the opening and add maybe 1 foot of height to the canopy when open. I'll also have to work out some sort of system to get it to stay open (hydraulic struts, and/or maybe some support poles that attach into place in each corner to keep the canopy raised...?). I would put heavy duty latches on the outside of the canopy to latch it shut.

ANY THOUGHTS OR SUGGESTIONS??? Anybody ever attempted something like this?
My main concerns are: 1) how to make a perfectly level cut all the way around the canopy. 2) if the cut canopy would be structurally sound, 3) What kind of system to use to open and close the cap.

Here are some pics I mocked up in photoshop to show my basic idea...
PopTop.jpg
inside copy.jpg
 
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robert

Expedition Leader
Not an engineer but I'm betting you'd lose the structural rigidity of the shell since it's not designed with reinforcing in it already. Cutting the fiberglass isn't an issue, just measure twice (or thrice), mask off your cuts and cut carefully. Unless you somehow score it, that glued in carpet will get hung up in the blade (at least mine did when drilling in my shell and every time I've tried to cut wood that I've already glued carpet to). I thought about trying something similiar using the Leer toneau cover that came on my truck but it's heavy. Folks use the pop-tops off VW Eurovanss to create pop-ups for vans; I don't know the measurements but that may be something to check as well.

Probably the coolest camper shell ever built on expo was built using an ARE DCU unit as the base. http://www.expeditionportal.com/forum/threads/137366-Tacoma-aluminum-Pop-up

You could always just buy a taller shell as well; not as cool but they are out there.
 

2002tacomaPDX

New member
Not an engineer but I'm betting you'd lose the structural rigidity of the shell since it's not designed with reinforcing in it already. Cutting the fiberglass isn't an issue, just measure twice (or thrice), mask off your cuts and cut carefully. Unless you somehow score it, that glued in carpet will get hung up in the blade (at least mine did when drilling in my shell and every time I've tried to cut wood that I've already glued carpet to). I thought about trying something similiar using the Leer toneau cover that came on my truck but it's heavy. Folks use the pop-tops off VW Eurovanss to create pop-ups for vans; I don't know the measurements but that may be something to check as well.

Probably the coolest camper shell ever built on expo was built using an ARE DCU unit as the base

You could always just buy a taller shell as well; not as cool but they are out there.

Thanks for the info on cutting the cap. Yeah, I agree, I'm really not sure how the canopy will hold up if I cut off the top. Even with some reinforcement on the inside it might flex at high speeds or if it's windy when open. I guess I just have to try it!?
 

blackwood

Adventurer
Unless you somehow score it, that glued in carpet will get hung up in the blade (at least mine did when drilling in my shell and every time I've tried to cut wood that I've already glued carpet to). I thought about trying something similiar using the Leer toneau cover that came on my truck but it's heavy.

I installed a round fan in my shell. Its an A.R.E. MX series and only had cardboard up there, no wood at all. I used a Bosch T130RF1 jigsaw blade and the carpet cut just fine. I wish I would have gone with a 4WH popup truck camper shell or a contractor grade metal shell. Every time I go to handle this disc I cut out, chalks of fiberglass always flakes off.

hole2.jpg
hole.jpg
hole3.jpg
boscht-t130.jpg
 

robert

Expedition Leader
Interesting that you used a ceramic blade, pretty clever (or I'm just stupid, which may well be the case). I've still got one of those solar/battery marine vent fans that I was going to install in my CX series but I just didn't get around to it before moving to th Philippines (truck is with my folk's). Right now I'm thinking I'm going to buy a DCU and try my hand at converting it to a pop top whenever I get back but if I decide to keep mine I'll give that a shot.

There's actually a DCU unit for a Tacoma on ebay right now (no affiliation, just found it while looking): http://www.ebay.com/itm/2005-2015-T...ash=item3aca0e9e02:g:DqgAAOSwCfdXpNNG&vxp=mtr
 

wanderer-rrorc

Explorer
I looked at a lot of truck caps..even canabalized one for windows and cut the top off to possibly use later..

There is nowhere near enough support in them once you cut the top from the sides..period...

But steel is cheap..aluminum is more pricy but I only have $600 in my cap..450 of that was the aluminum diamond plate..flat steel would have been about $150-200 but then I would have needed paint..

They are not hard to build..my frame took 3hrs..aluminum took probably 4hrs..works Awsome..

Sent from my VS987 using Tapatalk
 

Binksman

Observer
My last cap ended up being cut up for disposal and I cut the top of just to see how badly it would turn out...

It turned out comically bad :) I think it was my wife that started with the Viagra jokes.

I agree with Buddha. It should be relatively easy to fab up something similar to the EZ Lift Topper for much less that the $1300 I saw for it. You can attach canvas or some other material to the bottom of the cap and stretch it taut to the bed for when you are sleeping. A vent on the top of the cap and you would have pretty good airflow when you want it.
 

galvyork

Adventurer
I'm in the process of making my ARE DCU cap a pop up. It will be a pop up cab over. I have not started yet besides buying the cap. Plan is use EZ tube connectors for some of it to minimize welding cost and then build out the bed to make it a camper style.
 
Looks like the front back and sides could be reinforced easily by wood or tubing of some sort and making an inner skeleton. The top would be more important to reinforce at least in certain areas so you could fashion a safe way to latch it while going down the road. Wind at speeds can be a very strong force.
 

NorthernWoodsman

Adventurer/tinkerer
just a thought here, but if you do this...and i think you should!... you're gonna need to fabricate an overhang on the top that extends below the cut when closed i would think. otherwise i think you're going to end up with a lot of water intrusion. if you're good with fiberglass you could make it look factory, but you might get away with a thick rubber "curtain" as well.
 

Heading Out

Adventurer
How about not cutting the whole top off, just cut an opening leaving some material all around the edges for support, then add a lip at the top of the front of the opening in the cap, and a lip around the sides and rear at the top of the section removed. this would help seal and keep water out, to lower you would side the roof section under the front lip first and then lower the rear section down into the hole and secure.
 

Michael1929

New member
You could get 4 small bottle Jacks and install them at each corner. Make a plate that goes under the shell for a lift platform. You then could lift the shell up to your desired height. To prevent water from coming in, make a waterproof canvas barrier that snaps on like a toneau cover around the outside. The only thing you might need on the outside is a drip rail so water won't get behind the canvas. This should cost less than 200 bucks to do.
 

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