Dodge Ram 3500 Overland Build

Ditch the front unit bearings on that AAM 9.25

Its a ticking time bomb that will fail with NO WARNING......leaving you stranded or causing the wheel/tire to rip off the knuckle

Free spin kit is $1500, but needed.

Really?! Funny how you sure had a different stance when people were telling you that about your RAM.
It is good advice. Just didn't figure you would be the first to spew it in somebody else's thread.
(funny, I just went looking for your thread on your dodge, and its gone. That's too bad.)
 
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cj7ox

New member
Great project! I've owned my Ram 3500 since new in 2006. Essentially the exact same truck as you have. They are very reliable, but do have an issue with the number 4 injector line (4th from the front of the vehicle). That injector line only costs about $40, so it would be a good idea to have one in the glove box just in case. Especially if you're going to be in the back country often. My truck has over 250K miles on her, and that injector line is the only mechanical issue I have had. Follow a regular maintenance schedule, and your Cummins will outlast you.
 

Driven To Wander

Adventurer
Nice build and I like your OBA tank setup.

I take it you mounted it right under the driver side rear door?

Hi and thanks for the comment. I actually mounted the air tank on the passenger side, just under the rear door. I wanted to have it on the side of the truck where there would not be traffic, in case I needed to drain or connect to the tank in an emergency when on the side of the road.
 

Driven To Wander

Adventurer
Great intro to the project and the journey. I have never owned a 5.9 Cummins so take this with a grain of salt but I have had two acquaintances both with 5.9 24 valves same as your generation Ram both convert to the DynaTrac Free-Spin hub kit. Sounds like the OE bearing assembly, as D45 stated, can be an issue if / when it fails in the field. While the investment is significant I have yet to hear anyone regret doing the freespin kit. I know there is at least one other company that offers such a kit but the name escapes me at the moment.

Best of luck with the adventure and look forward to reading more.

It seems like installing a FreeSpin kit is something I may need to add to my list of projects, as it's been mentioned by several people now. I have a limited budget, so it's hard to decide which makes the final list. Adding the FreeSpin kit will most likely have to bump another project off the list.

Thanks for the input.
 

Driven To Wander

Adventurer
Great base vehicle.
When you get your camper or final weight figured out seriously consider a suspension system from Carli or Don Thuren. Either company will supply the necessary coils,springs and specially valved shocks to enable the truck to last.
The Dynatrac American-made freespin kit with Warns was an all time low of $1599 on Black Friday. I would imagine they will repeat the sale Christmas.
Spyntec,another good kit is $1500 everyday.

Thanks for the tip. I will keep an eye on freespin kit prices. I have not decided on the suspension system yet other then Firestone air bags. How heavy is your Northstar and what kind of suspension do you have?
 

Regcabguy

Oil eater.
Thanks for the tip. I will keep an eye on freespin kit prices. I have not decided on the suspension system yet other then Firestone air bags. How heavy is your Northstar and what kind of suspension do you have?

Mine's about 2K# wet. My suspension consists of Kore front coils simply because their stiff rate works with the camper. Thuren camper valved King 2.5's,Carli rear mini-paks and long travel airbags. Hellwig standard swaybar. Thuren trackbar. Steering gear stabilizer bar. Thuren steering stabilizer. Quite the mutt but it works well.
An all Carli system would be the best if you can swing it someday. I've just pieced mine together over the years.
If I had your qcsb,a Northstar TC650 with the side tailgate doors like mine would be on there. The small doors enable you to store an axe,broom,rake,entrance mat,snatch 'em strap etc.
 

Driven To Wander

Adventurer
Firestone Air Springs Install

Firestone Ride-Rite Air Bag Suspension Kit, model 2299 for Dodge Ram 3500, comes with everything I needed to complete the project under couple hours. Instructions are pretty clear and it is a fairly easy install. It requires no drilling, it does not alter truck’s original suspension and the warranty stays intact. Please refer to Firestone's install manual for safety precautions. Pictures below are showing driver's side install. Here are step by step instructions:

1. Remove the jounce bumper from the truck using 15 mm sucked wrench.

40870030095_889bef34e1_o.jpg



2. Lower bracket has a wide side and a narrow side. Orient the wider side towards leaf spring for diesel Ram 3500.

41769461161_d78defc5a6_o.jpg



3. Using 3/8″-16 x 3/4″ flange head bolt, install the air spring to the lower bracket. Finger tight.

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41728185222_126799ea63_o.jpg



4. Install the male air fitting into the air inlet. I am using Orange Teflon Tape.

41051233864_781c91347e_o.jpg



5. Attach the brace to the upper bracket using the upper set of holes that are marked “4WD” using four 3/8″-16 x 1″ hex head bolts and four 3/8″-16 flange lock nuts.

26901050617_108cfc9eb2_o.jpg



6. Install the upper bracket to the frame using two 10 mm x 30 mm flat head bolts.

39961498390_805c683026_o.jpg



7. Position the lower bracket and air spring assembly from STEP 3 on the axle.

41769448921_f89836dd67_o.jpg



8. Put the large threaded stud through the large hole on the upper bracket and the locating pin of the air spring in the small hole on the upper bracket as shown in Figure “A”. Make sure the alignment pin is in the locating hole before fasting air spring to the upper bracket. Fasten the air spring to the upper bracket using ¾”-16 hex head nut and ¾” star washer.

39961505540_50a6caf02d_o.jpg



9. Fasten the lower bracket to the axle housing using the bail clamp and the axle clamp bracket and two 3/8″-16 locking flange nuts securely. Once the lower bracket orientation has been set, tighten the 3/8″-16 x ¾” flange bolt that was installed in STEP 3.

40870050565_e364f74b44_o.jpg



10. Reverse the orientation for assembly and repeat the steps for passenger’s side install.

I will be connecting the Firestone Ride-Ride Air Bags to my on-board 2.5 Gallon Viair Air Tank with Firestone 3145 Air-Rite Dual Cab Control Kit in the next project.
 
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Driven To Wander

Adventurer
Firestone Dual Air Control Panel Install


39961800100_7a1d597a89_o.jpg


This unit, Firestone WR17602145 Air-Rite Dual Cab Control Kit, allows me to adjust and monitor two individual Firestone Air Springs from the driver seat. It comes with 60 feet of 1/4 inch air line tubing, 2 T fittings and necessary hardware to install panel. Here are step by step instructions:

1. Select the location you would like to install the panel.

27900582288_086556b2af_o.jpg



2. Use the panel as a template for marking. Drill two 3/16″ diameter holes at each of the marked area. In my case, left mounting point was lining up with an opening. So I had to drill another one.

40870328365_c2fb418322_o.jpg


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3. Drill holes for intake and output air lines and mount the panel.

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4. Connect the air tubing to the control panel. Here is a quick reference from Firestone install manual.

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5. I am tapping into headlight/dimmer switch output (orange with brown stripe) to get positive current to the control panel light.

40865229505_2b7512c7d6_o.jpg


It is the second wire between the orange with black stripe and the white with yellow stripe wires.

40865242755_4433541088_o.jpg



When dimmer is turned down all the way, Multimeter reads 2.4 V.

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When dimmer is turned up all the way, Multimeter reads 11.4 V.

26896423697_ea9ac45826_o.jpg
 
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jscusmcvet

Explorer
Nice write ups and pics on your project so far. I appreciate the time and thought that is going into your build and the write up.
 

topher800

New member
I'll throw in on the suspension also.

My truck is a 2011 RAM 2500 CTD, CC, SB. Camper is 2006 Hallmark Ute, fully loaded. I run 3500lbs wet, so guessing camper is 2800lbs dry.

I started with airbags and regular Hellwig sway bar. Still too much sway with the high center of gravity, even being a popup.
A year later I added a leaf in the rear and moved up to Fox Factory shocks 2.0 front and 2.5 for the rear (both are reservoir shocks).

Notes:
- I did leaf before shocks, it would have been interesting to have done shocks first.
- We were able to sustain 45-50 mph all the way in the Hole in the Rock road (not counting turns and stream beds; road was in reasonable condition, not worst case).


Wheels and Tires:
I am at GAWR of 6400lbs. Stock tires are fine for pavement and fireroads. If you are looking for true overland, lower psi equates to less chance of puncture. Go as far over capacity as possible (25% if possible).

Stock is 17" rim and 31" 3200lb E load tire. Toyo (and other mfgs) have higher E load capacity tires, sizes will be specific. There is not much tire selection in the 17" size. So I had to move to 16" or 18" rims. Toyo M55 @ 33" is a 3700lb tire. Toyo Open Country II (285/75/18) is a 4080lb tire, this is a 35" tire.

I found some 2013/2014 18" RAM rims on Ebay and picked up a set. And put the OC II 35" tires on. This lets me run 10-15psi lower...though I think I can just run ambient in the rear without the camper. :)

Notes on 35" tire:
- I can not fit a true (35") spare under the truck, esp with sway bar in the way. Check spare fitiment first.
- Perhaps .5 mpg improvement on highway both with and without camper.
- I rub control arms at near full lock (and I believe left turn only). 315's would rub worse and I would consider aftermarket control arms.

A friend put the 33" M55 on his Chevy. Says best M+S/AT tire he has had in the snow. He also did the Fox shocks and is quite happy. He has a 2005 Ute.
 
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Regcabguy

Oil eater.
I'll throw in on the suspension also.

My truck is a 2011 RAM 2500 CTD, CC, SB. Camper is 2006 Hallmark Ute, fully loaded. I run 3500lbs wet, so guessing camper is 2800lbs dry.

I started with airbags and regular hellwig sway bar. Too much sway with the high center of gravity, even being a popup.
Added a leaf in the rear and moved up to Fox Factory shocks 2.0 front and 2.5 for the rear (both are reservoir shocks).

Notes:
- I did leaf before shocks, it would have been interesting to have done shocks first.
- We were able to sustain 45-50 mph all the way in the Hole in the Rock road (not counting turns and stream beds; road was in reasonable condition, not worst case).


Wheels and Tires:
I am at GAWR of 6400lbs. Stock tires are fine for pavement and fireroads. If you are looking for true overland, lower psi equates to less chance of puncture. Go as far over capacity as possible (25% if possible).

Stock is 17" rim and 31" 3200lb E load tire. Toyo (and other mfgs) have higher E load capacity tires, sizes will be specific. There is not much tire selection in the 17" size. So I had to go 16" or 18" rims. Toyo M55 @ 33" is a 3700lb tire. Toyo Open Country II (285/75/18) is a 4080lb tire, this is a 35" tire.

I found some 2013/2014 18" RAM rims on Ebay and picked up a set. And put the OC II 35" tires on. This lets me run 10-15psi lower...though I think I can just run ambient in the rear without the camper. :)

Notes on 35" tire:
- I can not fit a true (35") spare under the truck, esp with sway bar in the way. Check spare fitiment first.
- Perhaps .5 mpg improvement on highway both with and without camper.
- I rub control arms at near full lock. 315's would probably be a different story.

A friend put the 33" M55 on his Chevy. Says best M+S/AT tire he has had in the snow. He also did the Fox shocks and is quite happy. He has a 2005 Ute.

Some Thuren control arms will enable you to run 35's with stock rims and no rub.
I use Kore's stiff coils up front simply because my camper weight demands it. Thuren's were too soft a rate although perfect for a lighter laden truck. 315's would rub also with stock control arms.
 

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