Expo Trailer Build flatbed, rooftop tent, teardrop style kitchen box on back

[bluebruin]

yeah, its high. 6" lift, 37" tires. gobi rack. had a jeep with a 2" lift before this, and always regretted not going bigger. so, went big this time around. arguably too big, but been handy with a wheelbase as long as a JK has. I did put wheel spacers on to help widen the stance a bit, but tip over is definitely a concern. I try to stay away from off camber situations. besides, we are wheeling with young kids so we don't take any unnecessary risks. mostly a camping mobile to get us to back country national forest areas away from RV's, atv's and such. Somewhere to enjoy a view, some piece and quiet, and time around a fire

 

[bluebruin]

here is the location I am thinking of mounting (equal height) to jeep. I am thinking of mounting trailer RTT rear end forward to gain weight on the front of the trailer. Don't want sway issues since the kitchen will be heavy. anyone know a reason not to do this? Aerodynamics don't matter, my jeep is a brick anyway. Dont know if it would leak, but doubt it since the seal is basically the same all the way around.

I would go even further forward to help my balance issue, and get the tents closer together for convenience, except for this problem:

I might have to weld some type of safety stop or install a big rubber bumper on the draw bar of the trailer to make sure that hits my jeep bumper before the two RTT's make contact. Fiberglass on fiberglass with the weight of two vehicles behind it is no bueno. That would be a $3k mistake.

 

[bluebruin]

Installed Fiberglass (FRP) panel on top of the kitchen box to make it extra water proof. I ran out of aluminum large enough or I might have used that. I had this FRP from my previous trailer build. Spray painted black.

installed HDPE countertop on prep counter that is on swing out door.

Welded and painted rack that will hold the roof top tent. I reused the mounts from the original platform that was on the trailer. The guy welded receiver hitches vertically in all for corners. I removed the back two, but left the front ones. So, I build the rack from 2" tube, drilled holes, and used hitch pins to put in place. I could easily lower the rack later if I want. Or remove it.

Back rack that mounts to the top of the kitchen box.
https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-...5-EK9HIoUN0/w1118-h629-no/20150418_103859.jpg

Coated the outside in a layer of resin for extra water resistance

Added a large aluminum backsplash all around the sink area. I plan to install a wall mounted dish drying rack behind the sink, so that should protect the plywood walls.

Sealed up the HDPE and aluminum backsplashes with some clear silicone. Lastly put a coat of polyurethane on all wood interior and wood drawers.

 

[bluebruin]

test fit a bunch of gear on the trailer today. drove it to a dry parking lot for some turning tests.

Right now, I can turn at a 90 degree plus angle.

I used a tape measure to see where the trailer RTT would land. As suspected, it would make contact with the jeep RTT before the bumper made contact.
Here is the trailer a few inches past where RTT's would hit:

So, i need to fabricate some type of bumper here to make contact between the draw bar and the jeep bumper at full turn:

One option I am considering is building a heavy duty rack/shelf to hold ta truck box on the draw bar that would hit the jeep tire instead.
we'll see.

The other problem, is as I suspected, the trailer does some swaying / fish tailing at about 60-70mph on the highway. I hope I can eliminate this with the placement of the RTT and the spare tire. I can't bank on the fact the front of the trailer cargo area will be loaded. Since, on the way to camping, we have food, ice, water etc. But on the way home we are basically empty again. I'd like to mount the tent even further forward but can't due to this problem of the RTT's hitting.

 

[k9lestat]

You could use stabilizer bar(s) while on the hwy

 

[bluebruin]

You could use stabilizer bar(s) while on the hwy

like a trailer sway controller? Seems like all the ones I am looking at are designed for a triangular draw bar and a a ball hitch, and I don't have either of those. Not sure how i would make that work. hopefully I can just get it balanced and eliminate the problem all together. thanks for the suggestion. I will keep that in mind as backup

 

[k9lestat]

I'll look for one to post but I think there a single bar version.

 

[k9lestat]

http://www.etrailer.com/Weight-Distribution/Pro-Series/83660.html

http://www.maypole.ltd.uk/SH5492-STRONGHOLD<br>-STABILISER<br>-WITH-CARRY-BAG_44150-15386


Something like these

 

[bluebruin]

http://www.etrailer.com/Weight-Distribution/Pro-Series/83660.html

http://www.maypole.ltd.uk/SH5492-STRONGHOLD<br>-STABILISER<br>-WITH-CARRY-BAG_44150-15386


Something like these

yeah. I saw those.

it says "Operates on the principle of "stiffening" the coupling between the tow vehicle and trailer
The degree of "stiffening" or friction is adjusted to suit various trailer weights and towing conditions"

the "coupling" on my trailer is "fixed". it has no play like a ball hitch. So I don't know if this would help any.

I have one of these:
http://store.adventuretrailers.com/products/Max-Coupler.html

 

[k9lestat]

You could weld a small plate to the part of the hitch that goes into the receiver with a hole to mount the truck end ball on.

 

[bluebruin]

I decided to try to mount my spare tire under my trailer since I have a generous amount of space above the axle.

Here

Here is the mount I fabricated. The wheel has to sit at a slant since there is a 2x2 steel cross member under there. And it has to sit behind where the drawbar connects to to the cross member in front of the axle.

Next I decided to make a mount for my water jug. I will mount it on the front of the kitchen box and use gravity to feed my faucet. I bought one of these for $13 at walmart.

I had some thin angle iron in my garage I picked up for free at some point

Made this

Going for something like this.

I bought one of these "threaded bulkheads". I plan to install it in the bottom of the jug and pipe a line down to my sink. They are meant for aquariums, but should work fine for my application I think.

(http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0002Z7U1K/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1)

Lastly, I thought I'd show you the most important part of my kitchen box. Custom box wine holder. haaahhahh

 

[bluebruin]

more work on trailer last few nights.

Made a hold open for the pantry lid. Tried some of these that I had, but they couldn't hold open the weight since they are really intended for a drop down desk:

Instead did this with a "barrel bolt" (like you put on a cabinet or door) I had laying around. works fine

Mounted up my spare tire holder.

Tried installing tire, but I couldn't fit it between the rear bolts on the mount and the axle! Crap. So, chopped down the mount, welded it back together, remounted, flipped tire so "front" of rim is up facing the underside of the deck. Works fine now. Tight fit between the draw bar and the sink in back.

Mounted shovel for doing #2 in the woods.

Wife asked for a mirror. My coffee pot didn't fit in the intended holder due to the handle, but I repurposed the slot for a kleenex box.

Dish towel hanger bar

Paper towel holder, grocery bag holder.

That's it for now.

 

[bluebruin]

used to have one of these in my apartment when I lived in the city. Thought it would work great in the trailer since we don't have much counterspace.

but, didn't want to spend 1 hour driving to IKEA and pay $30... so, I bought this for $6 at home depot. Its a wire shelf. Turn it upside down and its a drying rack.

Chopped off the ends, mounted it to the back wall above the sink.

Flip it up, and I secure it with part of a hasp I pulled out of my junk bin, and a carabiner.
Here it is in the up position, during travel when the kitchen box is shut.

Started work on my gravity feed water system. Here is the faucet.

Drilled the tank, mounted the tank/jerry can holder on the outside front of the kitchen box. Having trouble securing the drain bulkhead fitting inside the jerry can, since I have to do everything through the 1.5" cap opening in the top. I have the hex nut onto the inside threads of the bulkhead but I can't think of a way to hold it tight enough to tighten it and get the gasket on the fitting to seal against the outside of the can. Don't have any pliers long enough or a socket big enough for the hex nut.... hmm.

 

[matthewp]

I like this trailer! The wine storage is nice (every trailer needs wine storage. ).

I was concerned about trail damage on the underside of the sink. It seems like the spare tire will greatly assist in the protection, but do you have any further plans for protecting the underside of the sink?

 

[IdaSHO]

My kinda build


Those Malbec black boxes are GOOOOOOD :ylsmoke: