Flatbed build, clearance between truck and camper? Alaskan and 2018 Silverado

rruff

Explorer
I used the flared out edge to overlap onto the roof of the truck cab, installing this long trim piece at a slight diagonal so it was leaning towards the front of the truck and back towrds the lip of the OH bunk floor.
I noticed that bugs were plastered on the vertical camper wall behind that gap; moreso than anywhere else. How rigid is that? I was thinking of using neoprene roll...
 

AbleGuy

Officious Intermeddler
I noticed that bugs were plastered on the vertical camper wall behind that gap; moreso than anywhere else. How rigid is that? I was thinking of using neoprene roll...
The rubber cove moulding strip we used stayed rigid enuf to not bend backwards from driving at even higher speeds, fwiw. I did use a bit of flexible, easy to peel off silicone caulk along the back side of it along the bottom in a couple of places to brace it.
 

dstefan

Well-known member
On our last big OH camper/pickup truck combo, we had about 3 1/2” of a gap between truck roof and the bottom of the camper overhead bunk.

To aid in mpgs and aerodynamics, I bought and cut to length a flexible piece of ribber commercial floor cove moulding/trim and glued it along the bottom front edge of the OH camper bunk, to seal off road wind pushing into the dead space under the upper bunk. That actually looked ok and seemed to work well, just FYI

Basically, something like this:
View attachment 835020

I used the flared out edge to overlap onto the roof of the truck cab, installing this long trim piece at a slight diagonal so it was leaning towards the front of the truck and back towrds the lip of the OH bunk floor.

View attachment 835021
Do you have a picture of that setup? I’ve been thinking of making a similar “splitter” airdam and looking for the right material. How did you attach that stuff to the camper? And did the cove material damage the paint on the truck roof?
 

AbleGuy

Officious Intermeddler
Do you have a picture of that setup? I’ve been thinking of making a similar “splitter” airdam and looking for the right material. How did you attach that stuff to the camper? And did the cove material damage the paint on the truck roof?
All ⬆️ good questions.

Several moves ago I somehow lost the box of our old photo albums. So unfortunately I don’t have a picture of this setup. It was long ago…

This set up was first done on our 1986 F150 4x4 regular cab long bed truck. That camper was a 1/2 cabover.

I simply glued the top edge of the flexible rubber cover moulding along the bottom front edge of the camper’s cabover. And then used liquid nails to run a very thick bead up behind and under the top of that moulding where it came in contact with the cabover.

But before doing that, I applied several coats of wax to the top of the truck where the moulding would rub on it, to try to protect the paint. To ‘brace’ the moulding where it hit the truck’s roof, I laid down a thick ridge of removable clear caulk on the roof right behind where the moulding laid on it.

Since the truck roof was curved and the bottom of the camper roof was flat, I did have to trim the center of the moulding a little to keep a good tight fit.

On our next truck, a 1989 reg cab k2500 long bed, we had a full cabover camper. On that one, the moulding was attached to the camper using @ a 4’ long a 2x2 screwed and glued into the bottom of the overhead bunk. This was done about a foot in from the front of the cab so it lined up with the top edge of the front of the truck cab’s roof.

This time I attached the moulding to the truck with a similar thick line of ‘removable’ caulk but put two layers of duct tape under it to protect the truck roof paint. The duct tape was red and kind of matched the paint color of the truck.

I hope these descriptions help…
 

ramblinChet

Well-known member
The only correct source to answer the question you have is your OEM manufacture. When I was building my rig I referenced a document produced by the Ram commercial upfitter team. Off the top of my head I believe the minimum gap was 3-4" or so.

Here is a post received today by good friends currently exploring Canada - it is appropriate for this discussion:

View attachment 834947

Here is some additional information to consider:

FCA CVT design recommendations.jpg
 
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dstefan

Well-known member
All ⬆️ good questions.

Several moves ago I somehow lost the box of our old photo albums. So unfortunately I don’t have a picture of this setup. It was long ago…

This set up was first done on our 1986 F150 4x4 regular cab long bed truck. That camper was a 1/2 cabover.

I simply glued the top edge of the flexible rubber cover moulding along the bottom front edge of the camper’s cabover. And then used liquid nails to run a very thick bead up behind and under the top of that moulding where it came in contact with the cabover.

But before doing that, I applied several coats of wax to the top of the truck where the moulding would rub on it, to try to protect the paint. To ‘brace’ the moulding where it hit the truck’s roof, I laid down a thick ridge of removable clear caulk on the roof right behind where the moulding laid on it.

Since the truck roof was curved and the bottom of the camper roof was flat, I did have to trim the center of the moulding a little to keep a good tight fit.

On our next truck, a 1989 reg cab k2500 long bed, we had a full cabover camper. On that one, the moulding was attached to the camper using @ a 4’ long a 2x2 screwed and glued into the bottom of the overhead bunk. This was done about a foot in from the front of the cab so it lined up with the top edge of the front of the truck cab’s roof.

This time I attached the moulding to the truck with a similar thick line of ‘removable’ caulk but put two layers of duct tape under it to protect the truck roof paint. The duct tape was red and kind of matched the paint color of the truck.

I hope these descriptions help…
Thanks for the detailed description; that helps. The cove moulding looks promising
 

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