Going from Dual TT's to ARB's....gradually....

[Riflman]

Obviously the easiest way to do this is to just replace it both diffs with ARB and new HD axles and CVs. That's pretty costly and if possible, I'd like to do this gradually.

I have the most trouble with my TT in the front. It seems that I get my front end either off the ground on one side, or lose enough traction that only my rear end is doing anything. I have stock axles and CVs. I have spare axles and CVs from another truck and a powertank and air tools. Carrying spare axles and CVs WITH me at all times when wheeling, does not excite me, BUT....would swapping out the front TT to an ARB to start be a completely moronic thing to do? I would plan to change out to HD axles and CVs soon, but since I'd like to budget for this over time, I'd like to put an ARB in the front first. Buying the front and back HD ashcroft stuff is cheaper as a set so I would do that next, then the rear. Does this make sense? Oh and I plan to use the powertank for the air source. I already have the Powertank.

 

[Alaska Mike]

I'd replace the front first, simply because of the axle strength and turning issues. You may find that the TT rear/ARB front configuration works well for you. I only use my front ARB in short, mostly straight sections and I haven't lost a Dana 30 u-joint in over 15 years of rockcrawling. The last ones I replaced were worn from age. It's usually turning while locked and bound that breaks things.

 

[Riflman]

I'd replace the front first, simply because of the axle strength and turning issues. You may find that the TT rear/ARB front configuration works well for you. I only use my front ARB in short, mostly straight sections and I haven't lost a Dana 30 u-joint in over 15 years of rockcrawling. The last ones I replaced were worn from age. It's usually turning while locked and bound that breaks things.

OK. The turning part makes sense. So for the short term, try to avoid situations where I'm locked with the wheels turned until I get HD CVs, and then ONLY when necessary.

 

[05LR3AZ]

Tt/arb

I'm not sure why you wouldn't want to put in the ARB in the rear first. Then I re-read your post and saw you have more problem with the front and now it makes sense.

Many who I've talked to use their ARB rear more often as opposed to the front when wheeling. If your front end is off the ground and you lose traction that way could it be not enough articulation stopping you? I'm not sure of your setup so just bringing up ideas.

 

[Riflman]

I'm not sure why you wouldn't want to put in the ARB in the rear first. Then I re-read your post and saw you have more problem with the front and now it makes sense.

Many who I've talked to use their ARB rear more often as opposed to the front when wheeling. If your front end is off the ground and you lose traction that way could it be not enough articulation stopping you? I'm not sure of your setup so just bringing up ideas.

No it's not the whole front end, just if one wheel is off the ground. The other wheel has some traction but limited and it still won't engage the TT.

 

[leeawalden]

source out some yota diffs with 4.10s with lockers and do the rovertracks toy swap...you can do it gradually if you like as well...4.10s in a yota 3rd in the rear and then rear conversion and then get some LR 4.10s (lucky8) for the front, or vice versa but with a HP yota front end with 4.10s the conversion kit with ashcroft cvs and LR rear 4.10s.

My buddy runs 4.11s on stock axles with arbs front and rear...he hasn't had a problem yet but I know axles and cv's are next on his list. If anything I would do an ARB in the rear with HD axles and keep the front TT, and then do the front with an ARB later with HD shafts and cv's...All in all I wouldn't be spending all my extra coin on new lockers without looking in axles as well...

unlike the past, the good thing is that you NOW have options!! :sombrero:

 

[RoverMack]

No it's not the whole front end, just if one wheel is off the ground. The other wheel has some traction but limited and it still won't engage the TT.

The TrueTrac can require some driver finesse and left foot braking.
http://www.4crawler.com/4x4/TrueTrac.shtml

 

[Alaska Mike]

Actually, I would second the Toyota opinion, since it upgrades just about everything for pretty darn cheap. It does require a little custom work, but I think it's the superior option if you can do the work yourself or have a good mechanic. It also gives you 4.10s and a wealth of other gearing options.

The downside is that you'd have to do both at once.

 

[leeawalden]

you could do them independently from one another as long as you regeared the other axle accordingly...yota 4.10s in either end with the coversion (includes new axles) and then LR 4.10s from Lucky8 in the other...

its cool since you have a world of options for used thirds, a lot more lockers, and gearing options like 4.56, 4.88, 5.29, etc...However, it would be simpler just to head on the path you are going and get LR axles! Either way is a strong setup. By the time its all said and done the whole toy swap and sourcing your own thirds, etc, is about the same price (give a take $100) as doing the LR hd axle upgrade and 4.11s...then offset price depending on what lockers you do.

 

[michaels]

i haven't advertised the toyota conversion on here because i figured no one here would be interested. however, the rear kit will cost $650 for the axles and template. basically the axles are damn near indestrucible. you'll safely run 35s and be fine to around 37s. however, i doubt you'll go that big based off you being on expo... but the option is there.

the axles are 24/30 spline. the kit comes with a template to redrill the housing to the yota diff bolt pattern. after that, everything bolts right up. there is a little notching for the ring gear and a TINY amount of welding (as in 5-10 minutes worth of welding and grinding).

you can use the turbo/v6 or 4cyl toyota differentials (8" type). visit http://home.4x4wire.com/erik/diffs/ to find out more about which trucks those two diffs come in.

the front kit is $575 and you need to buy ashcroft CVs from lucky 8 for $488 for the pair. again the kit comes witht he front inner axles and template. the front uses the hi-pinion fj80 diff.

with this you have many more options for lockers (namely electric lockers).

just throwing out more options. the kit is made by rover tracks and does not include the diffs.

pm me in you think this might be the route for you. i gain no money from this i'm just in charge of the group buy.

 

[Riflman]

i haven't advertised the toyota conversion on here because i figured no one here would be interested. however, the rear kit will cost $650 for the axles and template. basically the axles are damn near indestrucible. you'll safely run 35s and be fine to around 37s. however, i doubt you'll go that big based off you being on expo... but the option is there.

the axles are 24/30 spline. the kit comes with a template to redrill the housing to the yota diff bolt pattern. after that, everything bolts right up. there is a little notching for the ring gear and a TINY amount of welding (as in 5-10 minutes worth of welding and grinding).

you can use the turbo/v6 or 4cyl toyota differentials (8" type). visit http://home.4x4wire.com/erik/diffs/ to find out more about which trucks those two diffs come in.

the front kit is $575 and you need to buy ashcroft CVs from lucky 8 for $488 for the pair. again the kit comes witht he front inner axles and template. the front uses the hi-pinion fj80 diff.

with this you have many more options for lockers (namely electric lockers).

just throwing out more options. the kit is made by rover tracks and does not include the diffs.

pm me in you think this might be the route for you. i gain no money from this i'm just in charge of the group buy.

Holy cow..... :snorkel:

I've heard about the Toy conversion for some time. I don't think it's available yet is it?? I know some people have fabbed them up on their own, but a drop in kit is not a reality yet is it??

I have 4.11's now...

At first read I was thinking that I could save the cost of the HD Ashcroft axles to offset the cost of the kit, but I don't think I can?? At least not the CV's? Please correct me... I just reread it, and it looks like the kit includes half shafts for the front so that we would use the HD CV portion of the front ashcroft kit only and waste the other half?? Is that because of the way the splines fit the hub at the wheel? Wouldn't you need the same thing at the rear (toyo spline at diff and rover spline at wheel)? How much are diffs running then?

I'm a little overwhelmed right now. Lol. Seems like it would easier just to fab a Rover CDL to a land cruiser. :bigbossHL:

 

[michaels]

Holy cow..... :snorkel:

I've heard about the Toy conversion for some time. I don't think it's available yet is it?? I know some people have fabbed them up on their own, but a drop in kit is not a reality yet is it??

i've been rallying support on dweb for two months now. the group buy will go in april 15th. you have until then to decide.

At first read I was thinking that I could save the cost of the HD Ashcroft axles to offset the cost of the kit, but I don't think I can??

the axles are a little more expensive up front but they have a lifetime warranty. ashcroft only has a 5 year warranty.

At least not the CV's? Please correct me... I just reread it, and it looks like the kit includes half shafts for the front so that we would use the HD CV portion of the front ashcroft kit only and waste the other half??

justin at lucky 8 has arranged it so that you can buy JUST the cvs and not the half shafts. the whole ashcroft kit is $788, i think. with just the CVs they are $488.

Is that because of the way the splines fit the hub at the wheel?

stock CVs have a 31 or 32 spline inner spline count.the ashcroft stuff is 24 spline on the inside, so you can not use stock CVs.

Wouldn't you need the same thing at the rear (toyo spline at diff and rover spline at wheel)? How much are diffs running then?

yes. new they are $1200 from inchworm gear with an e-locker and 4.10s. you can find used e lockers with 4.10s for about $450-$600 on toyota forums. used open diffs are around $50 to $100 at a junk yard with 4.10s.


it's a no brainer to me, but ymmv for your needs.

 

[michaels]

more benefits:
more locker options: aussie, lockright, etc.
more gearing choices: 4.10, 4.88, 5.29, etc
bigger, stronger internal parts. the axles are also thicker inside the semi float flange. i'm not positive the diameter, but i believe the 30 spline inners are 1.5" and rovers are 1.3"? someone can correct me, but they are larger, which inherently makes them stronger. they are also made of stronger alloy steel as well than ashcrofts design.

maybe i should post the thread here? it's on dweb if you would like to check it all out. search DII toy conversion under my user name.

 

[Riflman]

If I didn't already spend the money on 4.11's, this would be easier to justify. I suppose I could sell the rover diffs with 4.11's and TTs easy enough. The rear is only one year old with very little miles. Don't get me wrong, I was about with like 12 guys the other day. We met up with a bunch more. My truck ran circles around everyone else's truck there. I complain, but anyone else raises their eyebrows and says, "Wow. That's a great truck." I'm just spoiled. I know it's capable of more. The back end fell through the ice and the front wouldn't lock, so with one wheel in the air, I had to winch with no help from the tires until I got the second wheel to bite a bit too.

 

[michaels]

If I didn't already spend the money on 4.11's, this would be easier to justify. I suppose I could sell the rover diffs with 4.11's and TTs easy enough. The rear is only one year old with very little miles. Don't get me wrong, I was about with like 12 guys the other day. We met up with a bunch more. My truck ran circles around everyone else's truck there. I complain, but anyone else raises their eyebrows and says, "Wow. That's a great truck." I'm just spoiled. I know it's capable of more. The back end fell through the ice and the front wouldn't lock, so with one wheel in the air, I had to winch with no help from the tires until I got the second wheel to bite a bit too.

it's all good. you can just let me know. you can alway put the rear diff only up for sale and get an toy ARB for the rear too. i've seen photos of you wheeling. you're bound to get into more hardcore stuff soon enough.

cheers and good luck with your decision,
Michael.