DiscoDavis
Explorer
Side note: Where in the heck do you get those little cubby bungee net things?
LR3/LR4 REQUIRED UPGRADE: Prevent Rear Door Failure for ~$25
- Thread starter Derel1cte
- Start date
Those came on the 5 seaters only
Yet one more reason I wish I had a 5 seat instead of a 7.
I've fixed like a hundred and never had to drill a hole.
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krick3tt
Adventurer
I had to have mine replaced at the dealer as the installed shelf system does not allow the access you have. I also thought that the ability not to open the rear door from inside was a serious design flaw and posting that thought on a forum got me bashed. Why the need to bash is programmed into some people is far beyond me.
I do like your idea and it does look very original.
I will most probably implement your idea in my LR as well. Thanks for posting such a well thought out solution, the photos are a real help.
I do like your idea and it does look very original.
I will most probably implement your idea in my LR as well. Thanks for posting such a well thought out solution, the photos are a real help.
Just curious why so many think it's a design flaw or can't believe LR didn't install an inside release? I suspect it's something 99% of people would never use. The ONLY people who would be likely to use it are those who've had a failure or perhaps those who sleep in the back of the truck...neither of which is exactly a design requirement for LR I'm sure.
It's not like it's a safety device since 1-you can't exactly accidentally lock your self in the back anyway (the hatch could fall closed but the tailgate isn't going to accidentally close) and even if you did you just go out through the forward doors. I mean, I sleep in the back of my rig without an internal hatch release just fine.
I'm not making a complaint here - because we know the history of this latch failing having a back-up is a good thing and the OP did by far the nicest job with one I've seen. I'm just not in the least surprised LR didn't install one.
It's not like it's a safety device since 1-you can't exactly accidentally lock your self in the back anyway (the hatch could fall closed but the tailgate isn't going to accidentally close) and even if you did you just go out through the forward doors. I mean, I sleep in the back of my rig without an internal hatch release just fine.
I'm not making a complaint here - because we know the history of this latch failing having a back-up is a good thing and the OP did by far the nicest job with one I've seen. I'm just not in the least surprised LR didn't install one.
I guess I'm wrong on this one, but I for the life of me couldn't figure it out. Especially not well enough to coach my 60yo father through the process over the phone. I don't know how you would pull the carpet away far enough to get enough access since it is hooked around the cable stays for the lower gate, I guess with enough experience you can fish your hand in there, rip away the gasket, and pull the cable blind?
ColoDisco
Explorer
That's exactly how it's done per a TSB from Land Rover. Problem is if you have a drawer system in the back of your rig there is no easy way to gain access. I have been thinking of running a ss cable directly to the latch and tucking it away.
The release latch in this thread would work but would need to be mounted higher to clear a drawer system. I do plan on sleeping in the back of my rig on occasion and would rather hop out the back than through the rear doors.
The release latch in this thread would work but would need to be mounted higher to clear a drawer system. I do plan on sleeping in the back of my rig on occasion and would rather hop out the back than through the rear doors.
Forgive me for my naivety, but would this not be a problem still as there's no release for the upper tailgate from the inside? I too plan on building a platform and sleeping on the inside of the truck, just wanted to see what else people are doing.
The upper tailgate is what this latch releases. The actual latching mechanism for the upper is located in the lower; the upper just has a bar that's captured when the lower latches onto it. Take a look the next time you open the back and it will make more sense than I can describing it.
I think my solution could be pretty easily adapted for those of you with drawer systems. It would allow you to put the button on the D pillar or next to the storage bins, or really anywhere in and around the cargo area.
All you would need in addition to the items I've already linked is some additional cable and housing. This will get you an additional ~8' to play with:
Then. Instead of cutting the sub bracket, simply drill a hole in the bottom of the tailgate next to the existing wiring harness and another hold in next to the door opening. Then route your extended brake cable through this path. Maybe use some grommets to prevent the cable housing from being damaged and to help waterproof.
You could then chase the cable and housing up the d pillar. cut your hole here. Make sure that cut the cable housing to the right length. Pull off the metal ferrings from the original recliner cable and add them to the ends of your bicycle brake cable housing. you'd have to figure out how to mount the new handle, maybe just surface mount it to the trim itself?
It's spring loaded, it has enough tension to keep itself closed and not rattle, but I don't think its enough that it would pull the trim clips. especially since you'd be pulling at a slightly downward angle vs straight out. Or you could go with a push button style release instead of a pull lever.
(I don't know why I'm stuck on recliner buttons, they just seem really easy to work with and are great for mounting on flat carpeted/upholstered surfaces.)
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Derel1cte, thanks for the post. My 2011 LR4 rear door failed and I too looked at the youtube posts with the easy prescription of pulling the carpet back to expose the cable linkage. To add, my carpet is affixed to a plastic panel and I suppose it's possible to pry it from under the cover, know exactly where to tear away the sticky gasket/sound deadener, and with great dexterity slide a 90deg tool in the very small slot to depress the cable and release the latch. Tall hill to climb for even the advanced do-it-yourselfer. Fortunately for me, I coaxed one more release out of the actuator and miraculously the door opened so I could avoid the pry/pull/hope method. The recliner cable is a terrific idea. on the list to do.