M101A3 modifications

wADVr

Adventurer
Hello,

I’ve been using my M101a3 for a couple years now in ‘original’ format. I have been very impressed with how it has worked despite its weight and size. I use this trailer being towed by my ‘09 JKU for a variety of utility tasks, from picking up rock, dirt, gravel and other yard materials to lumber it has served me very well. Off road it has functioned as a fire wood hauler to hauling family camping supplies that don’t fit inside my JKU (2 adults, 2 teenage girls, 2.25 dogs) or hauling equipment into elk camp. I have in all cases been impressed with how it tows and despite the ‘old school’ leaf spring suspension it rides smoother and quieter than my Jeep.
All that said though, there are some things that I have been debating on altering to better perform and possibly open up areas to explore and set up camp. From the beginning the A3 is wide, overall width of 83.5” from outside of the fenders which in original setup sit proud of the tires by maybe 3/4-1” or so on each side. The wheel wells are 14” wide and leave an open bed space between them of 55.25”. While this leaves plenty of room to lay down sheet good such as drywall, plywood or sheet metal it leaves the trailer a bit wide for my liking. A mod I have finally done is to cut the wheel wells out of the tub, remove 3” of bed floor on each side and rewelded the fenders back in. Doing this reduces the trailer width to 77.5” (-6”), provides 49.25” between the fenders for sheet goods to lay flat. The tire coverage ‘suffered’ a bit leaving about 2” of the tire exposed but I am not worried about this and IMO looks better as it matched my JKU which also has tires that stick out slightly past the flares. Attached are a few photos showing the difference and how I did it.
E1A63D01-3D49-4428-AE68-EC9B0246034E.jpeg0123E620-64FA-4982-B973-36C39BAED44D.jpegEB9ACBDD-21D1-4FB8-8B54-5CD5B99BE0B6.jpegCF465431-309F-4E5D-BBF3-AAA6ED6D84E8.jpeg1C34F83B-696B-4EA6-AC56-33D5607F465D.jpeg98E6CB10-C624-4C3E-90B6-ECC8FBA2D305.jpeg85F8564F-A15F-4559-88F6-529C7EA0ED2F.jpeg48A34CEE-47DD-4A8D-B3F1-BCA9974A9AF0.jpeg9DADC7CA-A294-4C7A-B8B7-B182451E833A.jpeg

Next project will be to make a final decision on the axle to use and what width. The a3 axle has a WMS of 74” combined with 7” backspaced wheels to provide an overall outside tire width of 81.5” or a track width of 69”. My JKU has a overall outside tire width of 77.5” or a track width of 65” using 5” backspaced wheels. I am inclined to use an axle with a width to match the JK and then use matching wheels and tires but not sure if I want to cut down the original a3 axle or start over with a Dexter 3” axle. Either way I have convinced myself to keep with the 5200lb spindles, hubs and brakes. Unfortunately that means 6 or 8 lug wheels but I am ok with that and an adapter I found online to be able to use the same 5 on 5 JK spare tire in a pinch. The brakes will be removed regardless and swapped out for electric brakes. The Pintle hitch with the brake setup in it will go away and a simple 2” ID receiver tube installed for a Max Coupler.

Anyway that is the start of this, thought I’d share as I have not seen anyone cut the wheel wells out and I board them this way. It was pretty easy to do and in my opinion looks much better and is more appropriate for a rig smaller than a Humvee.
 

dstock

Explorer
Welcome to the M101A- party! Nice work. I ended up ditching the oem axle and going with a Dexter which does result in a significant weight savings. The oem axle is heavy!!

Have fun, the possibilities are endless! I'm working on v2.0 of mine now...haha!
 

wADVr

Adventurer
Thanks, I have been trying to find out how heavy the axle actually is and the wall thickness of the tube. I can figure out a comparison on just the tube but need to know its thickness. If I start from scratch or have Dexter or someone build one 3" x 3/8 wall tube weighs about 63 lbs for a 72" width whereas the same tube with .5 wall would be 80 lbs. Add the spring perches, spindles, hub and brakes it adds up quickly. The unknown on the A3 axle for me is how heavy the drop brackets are and the tube wall thickness which if it is over 3/8", how much weight is worth the raised center?..
 

Scrapdaddy

Adventurer
It's over 3/8 more like 1/2" I shortened my A3 axle on each side, here's a section view.

IMG_3484.JPG

Here's a picture of the shortened A3 axle under a M101A2 body. Tires are tucked under just right.

IMG_3513.JPG
 

wADVr

Adventurer
It's over 3/8 more like 1/2" I shortened my A3 axle on each side, here's a section view.

View attachment 539205

Here's a picture of the shortened A3 axle under a M101A2 body. Tires are tucked under just right.

View attachment 539206

Great info thank you! Not what I wanted to hear but what I had assumed. Looks like 1/2” to me. What did you do for your spindles? Reuse the existing? I was hoping to use some 5200 lb ez line spindles from eTrailer but they have a 2.25” slug that was hoping to slide inside the existing tube.
 

Scrapdaddy

Adventurer
Here's what I had to go through in order to keep the axle and spindle...https://www.expeditionportal.com/forum/threads/replacement-axle-recommendations-for-m101a2.68199/page-2#post-2467157

I wanted electric brakes and had to keep the military spindle because nothing would fit the tube. I had to keep the military hubs because they use their own size bearings, so had to make a way for the electric brake to grab on to the hub.

Sorry, couldn't get my link to work.
 

wADVr

Adventurer
Thanks again for the info. Surprised I didnt find your thread prior. Looks like I may start from scratch instead of trying to reuse the a3 axle.
 

wADVr

Adventurer
If I were to do it again, I'd use the Timbren axle- less system.....https://timbren.com/axle-less/
I am absolutely considering that option. I wonder what all this a3 stuff is worth? Surge brake Pintle, raised axle, suspension and wheels and tires. I would consider selling the 4” a3 frame as well.
 

Scrapdaddy

Adventurer
No idea, but I'd try selling it on the " Steel Soldiers" site first. It seems most guys are like you and getting rid of the heavy stuff.
 

wADVr

Adventurer
Finally got around to starting on swapping out the surge brake assembly and lunette hitch for a receiver tube and Max Coupler. I started with unbolting the complete assembly leaving the tongue in place. I measured everything out and copied the original equipment dimensions to make the new piece. Originally I was going to cut up the original bracket to accept the receiver tube but decided I’d rather sell the whole assembly complete (surge brake MC, lunette and the stand). I had some scrap 1/4 x 3” flat bar and found on Amazon a precut 10x10” 1/4” thick piece of plate shipped to my door for about $20... I don’t think I can even drive the round trip to the metal supply for that anymore. I really liked the way the safety chains have spacers and bolt the whole assembly together so I reused them and incorporated the design into the new parts. I had considered the more traditional method of welding the receiver right to the tongue and extending it but am actually happy with the way it tows as is and I was able to build the whole deal in my garage and just bolt it back on. I suppose in the future I could extend everything but for now I am happy with the shorter trailer/tongue length. For anyone interested, the original lunette, bracket, stand and surge brake assembly weighed 59lbs. The new parts weigh in at 21lbs for a savings of 38lbs. Not as much of a savings as I’ve read others but still significant. Next up will be some wiring then the axle set up.

here’s a few photos of how I did it. Looking forward to hitching it up and seeing how different it tows now, excited about it not clinking and banging.

584B01D6-78DA-424D-9D90-3E0F9C20B5BF.jpeg1EACA31E-EC3C-4143-9A25-6921F7C8BFC4.jpegA72F4AE0-944C-4BFC-8A8E-F2229BDAA9E0.jpeg15701733-AA1D-40EE-8346-39CA998B3150.jpegB7707578-E15A-43DA-BA57-6D04A29B9CE7.jpeg0EFF65C6-0814-4658-82E6-8FA5C304B66F.jpegC275B05F-8540-4204-9B0E-932EBBEF66A5.jpeg
 
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