M416 build in Houston

maddawg2012

Observer
Great build,
I've been working on mine for a while and have a thread here and on Pirate. You may find it interesting. Sorry I can't help with a list of bolts but suggest that you change them all out with grade 8. Strip the rust and use a rust converter before you paint.

I'm about 80% done with mine with the tub being done last. I did have it bead blasted and it cost me a few hundred but was worth it. I'm not doing a tail gate or a RTT. I want to keep it water tight. I will have custom fenders to match the Metal Cloak fenders on the Jeep. I added a tool box that has a battery, inverter and power connections and I may also add a lid with cargo rack that will be removable. I'm setting mine up to handle more extreme trails here in the west like the Rubicon trail. I've changed out the axle, springs, shocks wheels and tires and webt with the Lock-N-Roll off road hitch that articulates without binding or slamming.

I found that a bit of time searching the forums can be quite helpful when deciding what you want to build.

Have fun

Bonofied Suiter

Thanks for the comments. I spent time Thursday and Friday, doing a short list of what bolts to replace. Did go with grade 8 Zinc plated.
 

maddawg2012

Observer
This weekend I ended up hand cleaning and prepping the frame for paint and primed it. Also the sub assemblies are all painted. Nothing to show picture wise. Same stuff as all the others. I went the standard primer and spray can method. I was going to do the POR-15, but at the last minute changed my mind. I may at a later time re-do this in POR-15 but in a time crunch.
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I have ordered a majority of the replacement bolts after making a list of what was needed size wise. For now I'm only replacing the frame bolts and tub. Lunette assembly will come later.
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I also have on order the replacement C-shackles, shocks, and u-bolts. Springs were in great shape. I took them and power washed, primered, and painted. There ready for re-mount.
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Will update with pictures later this week as I did not take any while painting and prepping.
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----- Plan this week is to finish painting all the frame parts, re-assemble the frame. Weld in the gate skin. I need the trailer usable by end of next month so I will be using the existing axle for now and just use the tub in its current state. After the short trip, I will have the tube blasted and primered.
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----Since I'm using the existing axle, I have to use wheels. They need to be cleaned up and I need to see what tires I can put on there. The Mil tires are shot. I'm thinking 235/75R16's ? Or something for highway use that will fit the 7.00x16 rims for now. Nothing fancy, just to get on the road. I will be getting a Dexter axle with Electric brakes, parking break and 5x5 hubs.
 
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maddawg2012

Observer
Well I received my new shackles and bolts. I painted the frame and re-assembled the springs. By tonight I will have it back on it's wheels. Speaking of wheels, I found some 2002 Dodge rims and used tires to put on it for the time being. Total cost would be 80 bucks! To me that is better than two new ties I would only use for a short period of time since I intend to replace the axle and use 5x5 rims and 33" tires.

---Next up install temporary tail lights and license plate holder. Then frame will be road worthy for the upcoming camping trip. After that trip, I will hard wire the lighting for a perm solution. For now I'm just using a basic light kit I had, but intend to do Optronics oval Led lights and running markers. Reason I don't hard wire it now is I want to weld in some side steps and additional work needed prior to hard wiring in the lights.

Post pics tomorrow. Phone was left at work during re-assembly of frame.
 
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maddawg2012

Observer
Well, I was going to pick up some Dodge tires, but apparently the hub dia is too small. So back to looking into getting tires for the m416 rims. Considering 235/85/16, 225/75/16. Not sure yet.
 
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maddawg2012

Observer
Finally got some pictures of the frame painted up and partially assembled. Also picked up some Acron style 7/16" lugs nuts from Discount tire. 1.50 a pop. Not as cheap as online that's for sure. I didn't get a chance last night to put is all back together, so will do that later this afternoon.
Also found some more 5x5.5 used wheels and tires. Going to go look at them today. There off of a 72 F100.

IMG_1576.jpgIMG_1574.jpgIMG_1573.jpgIMG_1572.jpgIMG_1571.jpg
 

maddawg2012

Observer
Nice clean up on the frame.

Thanks Mark, was not to hard to do as the frame was pretty rust free (light sanding/washing off built up dust). The front lunette arms were the worst. Minor pitting in them. I will be replacing those with 2x3 tubing to extend the front out as discussed in prior thread pages. Springs were clean, just dusty. Replaced all the worn out bolts, and shackles. Sprayed it all up with rattle can (not my first choice- cost). Re-assemble frame back on wheels today.
 

maddawg2012

Observer
Wonder if they will fit a Bantam T3C...of course, I am in Alabama.

Appreciate the interest in the tires and wheels, but due to size I prefer not to ship as the return in value is low on these items in relation to work to ship. I think you can order new wheels for under 30 dollars plus shipping. New tires are about 130 each. My tires are shot and not worth anything.

With that said, I am willing to give them away to any local interested parties in the Houston area. You pick them up there yours. Just PM me.
 

maddawg2012

Observer
I like rattle can paint jobs. Easy to apply and to repaint if it gets scratched.

Nice work!

I agree on the re-paint and touch up. Just wish I could get an even look and durable hard finish. Rattle cans in my experience are hard to do it with. But non-the-less, it's done and don't look to bad at all.
 

maddawg2012

Observer
Bit of a update from the weekend. I got it back on its wheels. Friday I found a person selling some used 72" F100 wheels and tires (5 in all) for 80 bucks and picked those up. Afterwards I did the spring over axle and mounted up the best two of 5 wheels with the acorn nuts I got for Discount. I cleaned up the wheels and sprayed them with some Plasti-dip spray paint. Just to give it a overall clean dull black look. Then did as mentioned the temporary wire-up for tail and running lights. Finally put the tub back on and bolted it down for now.

IMG_1581.jpgIMG_1611.jpgIMG_1632.jpgIMG_1641.jpg

I did the spring over, but maybe might put it back the normal way as I'm not level. Though, I still need to put 33's on the wheels. But then again I think it will still be too high. Thoughts?

I still need to have the tub re-done. Sand blasted and such. Just need it usable for the time being. Final paint will be either Black or a desert tan color. inner tube floor will be replaced and then a bed-liner will be sprayed in. Once the trip is over, I will begin the outer side steps, extend the tongue and add a lid. Re-add the parking brake, and from there I'm not sure where I plan to go. Likely use it for awhile and see what I need.
 

Bonofied Suiter

Bonofied Suiter
Check the original military manuals. From what I remember the military specs have the front of the trailer slightly lower than the back rather than perfectly level. Perhaps there is a reason for this. I didn't do the spring over. I wanted to keep the CG as low as possible with large tires. As I retained the original casting I may need to use the lower lunette hole once I get everything connected.
 

maddawg2012

Observer
How does the trailer look loaded behind your JK. A couple hundred pounds could make the ride height lower?

Note sure yet, as I have not carried a load. When I purchased it, it when straight to teardown. I don't plan to carry too much. Mostly camping gear. Occasionally something else. Will certainly be under 500lbs

Check the original military manuals. From what I remember the military specs have the front of the trailer slightly lower than the back rather than perfectly level. Perhaps there is a reason for this. I didn't do the spring over. I wanted to keep the CG as low as possible with large tires. As I retained the original casting I may need to use the lower lunette hole once I get everything connected.

I will read up on that. I have 33's on the Jeep and will do the same on the trailer. If they fit with the standard axle spring under then I will move it back anyway as the trailer was pretty level with the Mil tires. I was considering 35's but cost and even more costs, plus added fuel loss. I'm deciding not too.
 

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