Notes From the PanAmerican

[rockandroll]

Getting Through Honduras in One Day

Well, the crux of the trip, the El Amatillo border crossing is now behind us. We went from Alegria El Salvador to Esteli Nicaruaga on a Sunday and did not run into much trouble. We did pay one $10 bribe for a lack of reflective tape and learned a lot.

We came well prepared and created a PDF guide out of our experiences to assist those that follow. This appears to be the worst border crossing in the Western Hemisphere and we are glad we can shed some light on it.

Click here for our tale and our PDF guide for getting through.

This guide also covers the El Espino border crossing to get into Nicaragua.

The infamous Blue Building​

 

[rockandroll]

Married

After Honduras we spent some good time in Nicaragua. Honestly, 2 years ago I don't think either of us could have placed Nica on a map. Now as overlanders these are the places we look forward to the most. You can read more up on our time in Nica here and here. We found Nicaragua to be safe, beautiful, and cheap! The only downside was the limited camping options compared with it's northern neighbors and southern neighbor, Costa Rica.

Fast-forward and We're now almost complete with our two week "break" from overlanding in Tamarindo Costa Rica where we stayed in a condo with my folks. The highlights here were getting married and well getting MARRIED!

From here we will slow our pace considerably, spending another 4-5 weeks in Costa Rica and Panama before shipping across the darien gap.

 

[rockandroll]

Doctor Visit and CR Border crossing

After researching the Nicaragua/Costa Rica border crossing and Penas Blancas we expected chaos (but not corruption as in Honduras). There were a lot more steps and agents involved than we've come to be accustomed to with the other crossing. However, armed with a smile and patience, we made it and created another guide to help the overlanding community through.

Read about our experience/guide here.

International overland requires a healthy dose of optimism. Despite this there are a few disasters we constantly entertain such as failing transmissions, crooked policemen, identity theft, and the need for medical assistance in a foreign land. We had the opportunity to experience the latter when I discovered a metal sliver embedded in his cornea while in Costa Rica.

Upon this discovery I expected the worse: 3rd world doctors poking at my eye for hours on end and being presented with a $500 medico bill for the shoddy efforts.

Our experience was quite the opposite. A professional, English-speaking doctor was able to remove the metal sliver in minutes for a flat fee of $50.

Read more at our blog here.

 

[Ruined Adventures]

Not sure if anyone's mentioned it, but your "how-to" guides in pdf are awesome...we are downloading them all into a folder and they will be very valuable on the road.
:wings:
Thanks for the great resource! Keep em coming!
...oh yeah, congrats on getting married. You and coydogsf really know how to honeymoon :rally_guys:

 

[nctacoma]

Yes, the pdf's are a great useful tool for everyone doing this type trip
Congrats on getting hitched.
be sure to check out the Mal Pais Surf Camp while in CR. Good surf and really great people who would be happy to let you park on their property.

 

[rockandroll]

Costa Rican Rainy Season

We are currently exploring the deep south of Costa Rica and each afternoon last week it dumped buckets on us. It has not fazed us as we hide out in our mobile base camp or hostel common areas leeching wifi and cafe gratis. The mornings are always clear and we are sure to seek adventure but find our way home before lunch. The evenings are a damp break from the oppressive heat. The downpour reinforces our repetitive dogma for overlanding: there is no perfect time. Just like five o'clock, it's raining somewhere too, and coincidentally, both are great excuses for a sundowner.

Wet wooden ridge ahead​

The camper, however, is not pleased. Before leaving California I spent a Saturday coating every seam with sealant, sparing no sealant as I opted for function over beauty. Despite this, we're getting some water intrusion on the top front awning. I have crawled around the roof looking for any imperfections and it looks solid. I have even sought out answers here at ExPo, but have been warned this is an inevitable perk of from wood-framed club.

Wet Siding​

And then there are the roads. We have made it a point to get well off the beaten path in Costa Rica. In the weeks since leaving Tamarindo we have zigzagged between the mountains and the Pacific, getting deeper with each destination. Costa Rica is a small country, only about half the size of Kentucky, but the winding dirt roads give the impression of a vast nation. The paved roads are so riddled with potholes we are actually pleased when the pavement ends.

We may be a little wet but we are far from weary.

 

[rockandroll]

Panama

If Costa Rica is a traveler's dream, Panama is the land that overlander's dream about.

We crossed into Panama last week, having no issues at all with the border crossing. The funny business with the policia and border agents seems to transpire only between Guatemala and Nicaragua. Nontheless, we created a how-to for the crossing from Costa Rica into Panama. Even if there's is no funny business, it's needlessly complicated with all of the stamps, stickers, and authorizations you need. Check it out here.

Once in Panama we made the easy drive to Boquete nestled in the foothills under Panama's highest peak, Volcan Baru. The mountain town is chock full of amenities and expat retirees. The real treasure however is Volcan Baru which you are allowed to drive all of the way to it's 11,398 foot summit if you've got the equipment. We had read this trip report from 2001 and were curious to say the least.

With 31" tires and a 1,500 pound camper, we knew the entire 14 km trail was out of the question. We saw a few vehicles that made it up that day. All of them had 33-35 inch mudders and a healthy array of accessories.

We made it 3 kms up the trail at which point we walked, wishing I had my old Jeep TJ with 33" tires and lockers. We camped that night at 7000', passed around a bottle of $6 rum, and sang John Denver songs. It was a grand old time.

After recovering in Boquete, we headed to Santa Catalina following rumors that this was the best surf in Panama. The road infrastructure off the PanAmerican has been poor at best. Throughout southern Costa Rica and Panama you'll be glad you have high clearance, good tires, and 4WD.

We arrived in Santa Catalina and found ourselves the perfect spot across the river at the remote and quiet Oasis Surf Camp. We camped on the beach for $10/night and enjoyed the best surf we've had in Central America.

Other Posts to check out:

Costa Costa Rica Highlights (lots of Pics)

On Choosing and Preparing a Pop-up Camper for International Expeditions

 

[RMP&O]

Other Posts to check out:

Costa Costa Rica Highlights (lots of Pics)

On Choosing and Preparing a Pop-up Camper for International Expeditions

Nice!

In the above picture, the large island is called Cebeco. On the tip or point of that island, which can be seen in your picture, is some of the best fishing in the whole area. I have knocked em' dead out there including a 45lb Wahoo, tons of Yellow Fin and the boatman speared a 75lb Red Snapper! There is also seculded beaches out there and secret surf spots. It is well worth a day trip out there. Ask around town, many boat captains will run you out there and take you fishing or whatever. I recommend Babalou though.

If you are up for some big adventure the bone yard on the way back to Sona is worth a visit, just follow your nose!

There is cheaper camping in Catalina, just a year ago Oasis was only $5 a night. Plus if you are on the town side of the river you don't have to deal with the tides. Rosalee (ask around town) will rent you a spot in her yard for well under $10/night.

Make sure and have dinner at No Worries one night, Alex & Juan-Carlos make the best and cheapest food in town.

.75 cent beers every day from 4-6pm at the Dive Stop, say hi to my good friends Glenn, Julie & Ben if you stop in. They also opperate the best dive shop in town which is right next door.

If you are into yoga, my friend Michele at La Buena Vida does classes, iirc Friday mornings on the beach. Their yoga deck is well worth a look and they have the best breakfast in town. Free wifi also available at La Buena Vida.

Across the street from La Buena Vida is the Library, in the same building is the bakery. Some excellent baked goods available here and well worth a stop one morning.

You really should go out to Isla Coiba. Any one who is in the area and skips out on seeing Coiba is well, missing out on much more than I can describe.

If you are an experienced surfer make sure and hit up The Point.

When you leave Catalina and get back to Sona. A very very cool drive through rural Panama is from Sona to the CA1 west. You just leave Sona west instead of heading for Santiago. After awhile the road will fork, stay left and do not head for Las Palmas. It is a really beautiful drive that takes a couple of hours. There is also plenty of places to camp along the road and along rivers too. Oh and the best rotisserie chicken I have ever had is in Sona. You can't miss it, half way through town on your right. $6 for a whole chicken!

A trip up to Santa Fe almost due north of Catalina/Santiago is well worht a few days. It is basically Boquete 20-30yrs ago. Ask around Catalina for more info.

The farmers market in Santiago is worth a stop if you like fresh fruits and veggies.

If you are in Panama for more than a month you can re-new your truck permit in Divisa instead of having to deal with Panama City. The aduana in Divisa is super mellow and takes about 15mins to get done. It is right on the CA-1 and you can't miss the offices.

My name is Ian, I just spent 3 months living in Catalina. You are welcome to toss my name around but I doubt it will get you any discounts, favors maybe, discounts unlikely!

 

[trailsurfer]

Really enjoying the trip updates.

 

[snohobo]

Nice!


If you are in Panama for more than a month you can re-new your truck permit in Divisa instead of having to deal with Panama City. The aduana in Divisa is super mellow and takes about 15mins to get done. It is right on the CA-1 and you can't miss the offices.
!

Hey! That's my local Aduana office you are talking about! Sure - they're a bit slow, and surly, and you have to wait for the hefe to get back from his coffee break to sign your paperwork - but it's a 30 min process at worst.

See ya'll soon!

 

[RMP&O]

Hey! That's my local Aduana office you are talking about! Sure - they're a bit slow, and surly, and you have to wait for the hefe to get back from his coffee break to sign your paperwork - but it's a 30 min process at worst.

See ya'll soon!

haha, no worries. I simply meant to say the one in Divisa is easy to find and Panama City can be interesting to find your way around the first time. Although I am sure you have got travelers taken care of which is awesome!

 

[rockandroll]

Nice!

In the above picture, the large island is called Cebeco. On the tip or point of that island, which can be seen in your picture, is some of the best fishing in the whole area. I have knocked em' dead out there including a 45lb Wahoo, tons of Yellow Fin and the boatman speared a 75lb Red Snapper! There is also seculded beaches out there and secret surf spots. It is well worth a day trip out there. Ask around town, many boat captains will run you out there and take you fishing or whatever. I recommend Babalou though.

If you are up for some big adventure the bone yard on the way back to Sona is worth a visit, just follow your nose!

There is cheaper camping in Catalina, just a year ago Oasis was only $5 a night. Plus if you are on the town side of the river you don't have to deal with the tides. Rosalee (ask around town) will rent you a spot in her yard for well under $10/night.

Make sure and have dinner at No Worries one night, Alex & Juan-Carlos make the best and cheapest food in town.

.75 cent beers every day from 4-6pm at the Dive Stop, say hi to my good friends Glenn, Julie & Ben if you stop in. They also opperate the best dive shop in town which is right next door.

If you are into yoga, my friend Michele at La Buena Vida does classes, iirc Friday mornings on the beach. Their yoga deck is well worth a look and they have the best breakfast in town. Free wifi also available at La Buena Vida.

Across the street from La Buena Vida is the Library, in the same building is the bakery. Some excellent baked goods available here and well worth a stop one morning.

You really should go out to Isla Coiba. Any one who is in the area and skips out on seeing Coiba is well, missing out on much more than I can describe.

If you are an experienced surfer make sure and hit up The Point.

When you leave Catalina and get back to Sona. A very very cool drive through rural Panama is from Sona to the CA1 west. You just leave Sona west instead of heading for Santiago. After awhile the road will fork, stay left and do not head for Las Palmas. It is a really beautiful drive that takes a couple of hours. There is also plenty of places to camp along the road and along rivers too. Oh and the best rotisserie chicken I have ever had is in Sona. You can't miss it, half way through town on your right. $6 for a whole chicken!

A trip up to Santa Fe almost due north of Catalina/Santiago is well worht a few days. It is basically Boquete 20-30yrs ago. Ask around Catalina for more info.

The farmers market in Santiago is worth a stop if you like fresh fruits and veggies.

If you are in Panama for more than a month you can re-new your truck permit in Divisa instead of having to deal with Panama City. The aduana in Divisa is super mellow and takes about 15mins to get done. It is right on the CA-1 and you can't miss the offices.

My name is Ian, I just spent 3 months living in Catalina. You are welcome to toss my name around but I doubt it will get you any discounts, favors maybe, discounts unlikely!

Wow! We've already moved onto Panama City. Info like this just goes to show you all that we miss. You'd think after traveling for a year you would see and experience a good deal. Wrong. Even the places like this where we stopped for 5 days, we missed _most_ of it.

 

[Roberto L]

Colombia?

Hi, we saw you last Sunday on the Pan American heading towards Panama City in one of the worst traffic jams I have seen in my life. Are you travelling to Colombia next? I live in Bogota and know the country quite well if you need any help.

 

[rockandroll]

Hi, we saw you last Sunday on the Pan American heading towards Panama City in one of the worst traffic jams I have seen in my life. Are you travelling to Colombia next? I live in Bogota and know the country quite well if you need any help.

That was some traffic we had. We stopped at Playa Palmar to wait it out. Colombia is up next! We will be in Cartagena this weekend.

Unfortunately we'll only have about 2 weeks to spend in the country as we have been delayed in shipping from Panama. Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated!

 

[Roberto L]

That was some traffic we had. We stopped at Playa Palmar to wait it out. Colombia is up next! We will be in Cartagena this weekend.

Unfortunately we'll only have about 2 weeks to spend in the country as we have been delayed in shipping from Panama. Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated!

Yes.... we had a plane to catch so we drove all the way to Panama City!! Two weeks is a short time for a big country!! How are you planning your travels? When is your car arriving to Cartagena?