Square tubing thickness

[blacktop_one]

I'm getting ready to purchase the frame material for my 4'x6' expedition trailer build and I've narrowed my choices down to two thicknesses. I'll be using 2"x2" square tubing for the basic frame and tongue and I'm either going to use 11 gauge (1/8") or 3/16" wall tubing. The 3/16" thick tubing adds another pound per foot so I'm leaning more towards the 11 gauge material. Any input to help me decide is welcomed.

 

[Flashole]

I'm not an engineer, but 3/16th is probably overkill. Especially if you plan on adding gussets for strength. Although, I might build the tongue out of 3/16th. Take that for what it's worth. The size of your tow rig and your intended use might also be important factors.

 

[Glorybigs]

.120 wall would be fine, actually it would be overkill, that said I would use it.

Keep in mind, almost every major manufacturer of rock siders uses .120 wall tubing. If it can carry the weight of the truck bouncing off of a boulder, I'm confident it can hold your trailer together.

 

[skersfan]

120 wall is what I use on all my trailer main frames. Be it 2x2, 2x4 or 2x3. Upper walls are all 120 wall for the main bows, and 083 for the side panels. I would say you would have no problem with the 120, what ever length you go. I built 40 foot fifth wheels with 120 wall.

Bob

 

[blacktop_one]

Thanks for the input. Let the build begin!

 

[skersfan]

Have fun man, we will be watching you.

 

[Ace Brown]

Agree with the .120" wall but think 2x2 for the tongue is too weak and consider that things like Max-coupler and other accs are 2x2 and would require 3x3 to slip inside. In other words you will need 2x2 inside width. My trailer uses 3x3 by 3/16 in the full length tongue but it is the sole backbone with no a-frame at the front. Couple of advantages there: drilling one 5/8 hole at the rear and you have a receiver for recovery points, bike racks or whatever. Also up front you can make the slide in part any length you wish and have an adjustable length tongue. Good luck.

Ace


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[GeoTracker90]

In my personal builds I try to use geometry to my advantage wherever I can. If you use 1.5 x 2.5 rectangle tube instead of 2" square tube your weight per foot / material cross section will remain the same but more of the material will be in the vertical plane. This is also the plane that the majority of forces from the spring mounts will be exerted in so it makes sense to have more material bearing these forces. I would stick with the 0.120" wall thickness.

For the tongue my preference is to use a 48" long receiver tube that is braced back to the trailer frame. The receiver tube generally has a 2" ID with a 1/4" wall thickness. You can then use a max-coupler, lock-n-roll, pintle, or make your own 2" ball coupler mount that slides in to the receiver hitch tongue mount.

Just my opinion so take it for what it's worth.

Mike

 

[skersfan]

I do the same thing, but my tongue normally goes back another 18 inches, just before the axle, and it is triangulated with 2x2. I do not run a center back bone down the trailer, due to water tanks, and the limits it puts on the tank size, or adding additional plumbing. I have started using welded D clamps for recovery. I also put them on the main rail sides.

I had box type trailer that I had the receiver hitch out the back, it seemed to me it was more trouble than it was worth. I also had a spare tire hanging off the back, and hated it, as it was a swing out and took so much room when camping. I now try to keep the back of the trailer as clean as possible. Although for highway travel or fire road, having one would give me a place to put the bicycles. Currently I carry mine on the side, just loosen the ahead set and twist the bars. Pros and cons to anything. Do what you think will make you the happiest, and if it does not work, you can always build another one, heck its only time and money!!!!