Betarocker
Adventurer
For the door lock issue, check the wires going out to the door. Might have damaged insulation that's grounding out.
The Hurt Locker - 2003 E350 v7.3 Crestline Ambulance Build Thread
- Thread starter Todsleeman
- Start date
For the door lock issue, check the wires going out to the door. Might have damaged insulation that's grounding out.
Todsleeman
New member
Disconnected all the box lock actuators and it still happened so I'm thinking it has something to do with this aftermarket alarm system under the dash with some skeptical electrical taping.
Strange that it was working fine before I started removing the wires to the back.
Strange that it was working fine before I started removing the wires to the back.
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Todsleeman
New member
Yeah thanks so much for the wiring schematic... Matches up near enough perfectly.
Fixed the door lock sequence-- turned out to be a short in one of the relays direct from the door lock power. Guess it teaches me to check closer to the source before I go digging around at the end
Fixed the door lock sequence-- turned out to be a short in one of the relays direct from the door lock power. Guess it teaches me to check closer to the source before I go digging around at the end
Bikersmurf
Expedition Leader
FYI, my starting batteries kept dying after 12-15 months with the Diode isolator. The last set were six months old when I put in the ACR. That set lasted more than three years when the last three sets all died before 15 months.
With the diode isolator there’s a .7 volt drop... meaning the batteries don’t get a full charge.
With the diode isolator there’s a .7 volt drop... meaning the batteries don’t get a full charge.
iggi
Ian
I was trying to remember what your issue was. Not seeing the voltage drop on mine. so not sure if it's related to your vintage of isolator or what. I'm two years on the same starter batteries and am not sure how old they were before but they weren't brand new.
Todsleeman
New member
Thanks @Bikersmurf - I am seeing 14.2v at the batteries and 12.8v after the isolator so I'll get round to installing the ACR if that makes the batteries last longer.
Didn't want to bite off more than I could chew when relocating the electrics so got everything moved today and working as it was before. Connected everything back up and my power locks didn't work again - finally learnt (the hard way) that there is a difference between normally open and normally closed relays even though they look identical. Needs a bit more of a wire clean up but so happy it's all moved and working. Leaving my side door ready and waiting for propane, water and trash.
Next steps is wiring up the fridge, water pump and still... solar.
Didn't want to bite off more than I could chew when relocating the electrics so got everything moved today and working as it was before. Connected everything back up and my power locks didn't work again - finally learnt (the hard way) that there is a difference between normally open and normally closed relays even though they look identical. Needs a bit more of a wire clean up but so happy it's all moved and working. Leaving my side door ready and waiting for propane, water and trash.
Next steps is wiring up the fridge, water pump and still... solar.
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Bikersmurf
Expedition Leader
FYI, when I wired in the ACR, the cable from the centre of the diode isolator is connected to one post of the ACR along with the cable that connects to the starter batteries. The cable from the house batteries connects to the 2nd post of the ACR.
My first choice was to wire the Alternator to the house batteries first... this unfortunately led to the alternator output spiking to 15.2 volts before the ACR connected the two banks and the voltage would stabilize around 14.5 volts. The momentary blip would shut down my inverter for over voltage.
My first choice was to wire the Alternator to the house batteries first... this unfortunately led to the alternator output spiking to 15.2 volts before the ACR connected the two banks and the voltage would stabilize around 14.5 volts. The momentary blip would shut down my inverter for over voltage.
Bikersmurf
Expedition Leader
Best price on ACRs I found was at Binicle.com. They were on sale at the time, free shipping, and may have even had a promo code.
here’s what I bought
ca.binnacle.com
Or alternatively...
If I were using the rig as a generator, I’d want to manually bypass it. The 215 amp alternator exceeds what the ACR
here’s what I bought
Buy Blue Sea 7610 Si Series in Canada Binnacle.com
ca.binnacle.com
Or alternatively...
If I were using the rig as a generator, I’d want to manually bypass it. The 215 amp alternator exceeds what the ACR
Todsleeman
New member
Cheers for the info - I picked up the 7622. I'm waiting on a busbar to connect the alternator and solar to the house batteries and I'll wire it all in.
Probably ready for an electrical break for a little bit anyway. Still can't believe it all still works.
Probably ready for an electrical break for a little bit anyway. Still can't believe it all still works.
TheRealPapaK
Active member
I'm not critiquing, I'm genuinely curious about propane above batteries. In my build, my stove is above my battery bank and I sealed everything thing with silicone so that if I ever did have a leak it wouldn't sink into the battery well and somehow have a spark in a very low case scenario. Does anyone have any real insight to this? Or was I overkill?
Todsleeman
New member
Fair observation - it did cross my mind. Such a long list of tasks that I said to myself that I would come back around to making it more "bomb proof" if I had the time.
Interested to hear if anyone else has an opinion or a horror story since it does seem like the perfect access compartment for propane.
Interested to hear if anyone else has an opinion or a horror story since it does seem like the perfect access compartment for propane.
Bikersmurf
Expedition Leader
I hear his point. With the inner panel back on the door, the batteries should be sealed off from the propane tank. If all that’s below is batteries, I can’t see there being any source of spark from there. If there was spark in the battery coming there could be a problem with the hydrogen released from them during charging. For this reason the battery compartment was not airtight to the outside, and sealed to the electrical compartment where you now have the propane tank.
More importantly, be sure to have your propane compartment sealed to the passenger compartment and vented outside. Since propane is heavier than air, the vent needs to be at the bottom of the compartment it’s in.
I’d not rule out where you have it, and welcome others thoughts and opinions pro/con on where he has it. I’m not an expert and am merely sharing my thoughts and perspectives. There could be things I’m not considering...
And I have been wrong before... I once thought I was wrong... turns out I wasn’t. But in thinking I was, I’ve been wrong.
JK
Bikersmurf
Expedition Leader
I’d be more concerned in the panel being removed to fit the 20 lb tank, and there being no protection from impact in a collision. I’ve got a 5 lb tank because they’re smaller in diameter. To do it over, I’d buy the taller 11 lb tank... which I’d not seen before buying the 5er.
Todsleeman
New member
I do plan on adding the door panel back in which does look like it would create a good closed seal now that you mention it. The 20lb still fits with that added back in.
In other news, solar has finally been installed, fridge has been wired up and a battery monitor has been added. Still need to do some wire clean up but so nice to have a power source other than the engine or shore power. I've got 2x 120 watt flexible panels so I'm interested to see how well the whole setup works.
@iggi - I wired directly to the aux batteries as you said and now understand the "switch" aspect since it has an output on the charge controller for a component. I don't think I'm going to take advantage of this and keep my switches all managed from the batteries/relays.
In other news, solar has finally been installed, fridge has been wired up and a battery monitor has been added. Still need to do some wire clean up but so nice to have a power source other than the engine or shore power. I've got 2x 120 watt flexible panels so I'm interested to see how well the whole setup works.
@iggi - I wired directly to the aux batteries as you said and now understand the "switch" aspect since it has an output on the charge controller for a component. I don't think I'm going to take advantage of this and keep my switches all managed from the batteries/relays.
