The overland beater: Dodge 1500
- Thread starter kraven
- Start date
kraven
Hegelian Scum
So, this happened.
The trac-lock clutch pack was busted, an through an act of sheer stupidity on my part, spider gears slipped out. If you're not familiar with these rears, that means a 20 minute takeout process turned into 2 hours because the remaining pressure held the gear against the c clip on each shaft.
Anyway, as you can see, it's out and on the bench. I used my leather cutting and ammo reloading bench because it was the cleanest.
Bonus: the bearings look good. The pinion bearing sounds good. Gotta clean the case bottom out and get all that friction goo out of there, and metal shavings and stuff too. Clutch pack parts should show up in the next day or two and I'll put it back together.
Got the fuel inlet painted. It was showing some corrosion on the outside, and is in direct spray of the rear wheel. They rust out frequently, and this one is pretty rusty. I went after it with a wire brush and it didn't break or make any holes, so I hit it with some of that cheap epoxy spray bomb stuff Advance Auto sells. VHT is the brand. Came out okay.
I kept the old fuel pump and had it soaking in pine power and water. Here's what came out of the sock and body. Dirty stuff. I'm gonna test the pump and regulator, and fix what's wrong with it so I have a spare to keep on the shelf.
Also removed the leather from the wheel and have it on the bench to use as a pattern. Cleaned up the transfer case boot as well. Had to soak it in pine sol water for an hour and scrub it to get it clean. Might still make a leather boot for that. That thing was nasty with dried cank residue all over it.
Time to clean up the driveway and get the tools all cleaned up and put away for today. Thanks for reading along, y'all.
The trac-lock clutch pack was busted, an through an act of sheer stupidity on my part, spider gears slipped out. If you're not familiar with these rears, that means a 20 minute takeout process turned into 2 hours because the remaining pressure held the gear against the c clip on each shaft.
Anyway, as you can see, it's out and on the bench. I used my leather cutting and ammo reloading bench because it was the cleanest.
Bonus: the bearings look good. The pinion bearing sounds good. Gotta clean the case bottom out and get all that friction goo out of there, and metal shavings and stuff too. Clutch pack parts should show up in the next day or two and I'll put it back together.
Got the fuel inlet painted. It was showing some corrosion on the outside, and is in direct spray of the rear wheel. They rust out frequently, and this one is pretty rusty. I went after it with a wire brush and it didn't break or make any holes, so I hit it with some of that cheap epoxy spray bomb stuff Advance Auto sells. VHT is the brand. Came out okay.
I kept the old fuel pump and had it soaking in pine power and water. Here's what came out of the sock and body. Dirty stuff. I'm gonna test the pump and regulator, and fix what's wrong with it so I have a spare to keep on the shelf.
Also removed the leather from the wheel and have it on the bench to use as a pattern. Cleaned up the transfer case boot as well. Had to soak it in pine sol water for an hour and scrub it to get it clean. Might still make a leather boot for that. That thing was nasty with dried cank residue all over it.
Time to clean up the driveway and get the tools all cleaned up and put away for today. Thanks for reading along, y'all.
justcuz
Explorer
Good to hear the rear end is salvageable. Save the steels and put a couple extra in to tighten your clutch pack up in the LSD.
Make it tight enough so both wheels turn the same direction and don't slip when jacked up and held by the wheel on the opposite side.
Put some friction modifier in it to save the discs, it should be pretty tight in the dirt.
Make it tight enough so both wheels turn the same direction and don't slip when jacked up and held by the wheel on the opposite side.
Put some friction modifier in it to save the discs, it should be pretty tight in the dirt.
kraven
Hegelian Scum
So, my no start thing is back. Electrical gremlins are my least favorite thing.
Got good relays. Power to the fuel and asd relays. But oddly, quite oddly, I have 11 volts going to my crank sensor when it's supposed to be 5. My windows go up and down. My locks work. My radio works. The cluster diagnostic reads no bus, and I czeched out the sensors (crank, tps, and cam). Headlights, all that stuff, work fine. Fuel pump works when I hot wire it. Pulled the fuse panel up in the engine compartment and looked for loose/raw wires. No dice so far.
Pulled the crank sensor and checked it out: continuity shows 1 when off and then .690 when you trip the magnet.
So. Weird.
Gonna stay focused on getting the rear end back together. Got my parts yesterday afternoon and just need to take the time to get it done this afternoon.
Got the timing chain on yesterday. Waiting for the new timing cover to show up, so I can button up the front and get the front accessory drive back together.
Got good relays. Power to the fuel and asd relays. But oddly, quite oddly, I have 11 volts going to my crank sensor when it's supposed to be 5. My windows go up and down. My locks work. My radio works. The cluster diagnostic reads no bus, and I czeched out the sensors (crank, tps, and cam). Headlights, all that stuff, work fine. Fuel pump works when I hot wire it. Pulled the fuse panel up in the engine compartment and looked for loose/raw wires. No dice so far.
Pulled the crank sensor and checked it out: continuity shows 1 when off and then .690 when you trip the magnet.
So. Weird.
Gonna stay focused on getting the rear end back together. Got my parts yesterday afternoon and just need to take the time to get it done this afternoon.
Got the timing chain on yesterday. Waiting for the new timing cover to show up, so I can button up the front and get the front accessory drive back together.
drewactual
Adventurer
the only time i've ever seen no bus was when the pcm was on the fritz.... what are the o2 sensors (specifically the upwind ones) doing voltage wise?
kraven
Hegelian Scum
Yeah, no bus is about a 60 percent PCM issue. But the grounds and whatnot also cause issues. The weird over voltage on the Crank sensor is really odd.
Haven't checked the O2 sensors yet. Need to do that as part of the diagnostic steps.
Was going to to put the rear axle back together this evening, but it decided to pour rain. I got lazy and decided to leave it til the morning. It'll keep a few hours.
Haven't checked the O2 sensors yet. Need to do that as part of the diagnostic steps.
Was going to to put the rear axle back together this evening, but it decided to pour rain. I got lazy and decided to leave it til the morning. It'll keep a few hours.
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kraven
Hegelian Scum
Still working on the no Bus thing. Found I had some obd info. 1 code which said over volt on temp sensor. So, I checked it out and it was broken at the intake. I ordered a new one and a new pigtail, since the wiring was kind of jacked up.
Got a sneaking suspicion about the overheating of the engine and decided to add water to the bottom of the block up to the water pump holes, since the heads are brand new. I bought it just after a cold snap here and even though there was a clear line of well water sediment on the water pump that made me think the block was okay when I pulled it apart, I still had a funny feeling about it. See that sediment line where water drained out of the heads, but not the block?
And I had two freeze plugs that had jumped out of place. One, luckily, was right above the starter. Very easy to get to. The other, was right behind the ps engine mount.
While the front cover was off, I was able to use my flower watering can with the small spout to fill the block on each side with a bit of water.
So, with one plug on each side having been chucked out, I decided to hedge my bets and get a couple of those rubber plugs you can tighten to fit. 10 bucks. Worked great. Hardest part was jacking up the engine and taking the mount loose. One bonus I found was that the catalog shows the wrong expansion plug size for the block side, so now I know they're actually 1-5/8 instead of 1-1/3 inch. Gonna let the block soak over night and see if it pees on the driveway or leaves any telltale leakage from the other freeze plugs. Or if I get water in a cylinder, in the oil, etc.
The other good news is that the plug that was still behind the engine mount wasn't at all rusted. It was pushed out. So, if the block is okay it should be fine to just put a couple of plugs back in and roll with it.
My wife made a pan of brownies. I've had enough of this truck for one day. Y'all be good.
Got a sneaking suspicion about the overheating of the engine and decided to add water to the bottom of the block up to the water pump holes, since the heads are brand new. I bought it just after a cold snap here and even though there was a clear line of well water sediment on the water pump that made me think the block was okay when I pulled it apart, I still had a funny feeling about it. See that sediment line where water drained out of the heads, but not the block?
And I had two freeze plugs that had jumped out of place. One, luckily, was right above the starter. Very easy to get to. The other, was right behind the ps engine mount.
While the front cover was off, I was able to use my flower watering can with the small spout to fill the block on each side with a bit of water.
So, with one plug on each side having been chucked out, I decided to hedge my bets and get a couple of those rubber plugs you can tighten to fit. 10 bucks. Worked great. Hardest part was jacking up the engine and taking the mount loose. One bonus I found was that the catalog shows the wrong expansion plug size for the block side, so now I know they're actually 1-5/8 instead of 1-1/3 inch. Gonna let the block soak over night and see if it pees on the driveway or leaves any telltale leakage from the other freeze plugs. Or if I get water in a cylinder, in the oil, etc.
The other good news is that the plug that was still behind the engine mount wasn't at all rusted. It was pushed out. So, if the block is okay it should be fine to just put a couple of plugs back in and roll with it.
My wife made a pan of brownies. I've had enough of this truck for one day. Y'all be good.
kraven
Hegelian Scum
Yeah, that's a very diplomatic way to say it.
I was hoping to be like Obi Wan by now...
Instead, I think I got the Millenium Falcon of trucks.
At least my wife still believes in me.
The plugs are only 5 bucks or so. The front cover is here now, thanks to a cheap one I found on eBay. So, I should be able to get it buttoned up and the front accessories back on it and in place, test everything again, etc.
I'm still testing the circuits for the sensors, but it looks like there might be a 12v wire somewhere that's rubbed bare and is shorting into the power for the crank sensor. So, I'll check that out today.
The rear diff is back together, but I had to order new thrust washers. Waiting on those to come in the mail too.
I was hoping to be like Obi Wan by now...
Instead, I think I got the Millenium Falcon of trucks.
At least my wife still believes in me.
The plugs are only 5 bucks or so. The front cover is here now, thanks to a cheap one I found on eBay. So, I should be able to get it buttoned up and the front accessories back on it and in place, test everything again, etc.
I'm still testing the circuits for the sensors, but it looks like there might be a 12v wire somewhere that's rubbed bare and is shorting into the power for the crank sensor. So, I'll check that out today.
The rear diff is back together, but I had to order new thrust washers. Waiting on those to come in the mail too.
kraven
Hegelian Scum
No bus problem is gone. I had a funny feeling that I was screwing things up by not having them all hooked up. So, I hooked them all up, reinstall the timing cover and accessory drive, alt, ps, tensioner, etc. Plugged it all in et voila.
Truck tried to start on the first key over to start, fuel pump is churning, and now I just need to get the water pump mounted and the firing order sorted It farted through the intake, so I'm guessing it was off a tooth and Cigarettes McMuddyboots just futzed with the dizzy to make it run right.
No warning messages on the dash readout, CEL light illuminates at key on, and now I just need my thrust washers and stuff to get here so I can finish up the wrenching (yeah, right).
