The saga of my 98 Discovery...

fishEH

Explorer
I had mine recored beacause ALL the fins were rotted. It was $375 which was more than I wanted to spend but less than a new one from AB. Aftermarket ones aren't built as well and might be less, though.
 

ExpoScout

Explorer
I had mine recored beacause ALL the fins were rotted. It was $375 which was more than I wanted to spend but less than a new one from AB. Aftermarket ones aren't built as well and might be less, though.

They actually quoted me more for a re-core than a new one...but you are right, the re-core would actually be nicer than a new one. Might still have it done at some point.
 

ExpoScout

Explorer
Here's the stuff I had powdercoated today:

34ns9vr.jpg


A 5 gallon air tank for the OBA setup I'm planning...

Also the skids and diff guards that were on it when I bought it. The front skid plate had been modified to fit around the undermounted winch with the ARB. The rear hasnt been modified.

I don't even know what make these things are. If anyone knows, feel free to let me know.
 

ExpoScout

Explorer
So since I've been sick for the better part of the past week I haven't gotten as much done as I would have liked....

But I did get the new oil pressure sender in, made some mounts for the hi-lift to mount on the front bumper, and got one of the diff guards back on. I know, nothing too exciting.

In the next couple days I should have the radiator back in, transfer case fluid changed, all the skids/guards back on, etc.

Then I'll get to see if the overheating issues have been solved. I'm trying to be optimistic in hoping that the oil pressure issue will be taken care of as well...at least I can hope. If it's not, then I guess the next thing will be a new oil pump.
 

Antichrist

Expedition Leader
Just my opinion (and you know about opinions lol) but hot dip galvanizing would be better for things like skid plates and such that aren't made from aluminum.
Powder coating will wear off, get scratched, etc., then you get rust starting that can actually work it's way under the coating.
With hot dip the coating is self healing so when you get a deep scratch the zinc migrates to fill the gap created.
 

ExpoScout

Explorer
Glad to see you're back at it, being down sick is a drag.

Yeah it is....still not feeling 100% but I should be good to go by the weekend.

Just my opinion (and you know about opinions lol) but hot dip galvanizing would be better for things like skid plates and such that aren't made from aluminum.
Powder coating will wear off, get scratched, etc., then you get rust starting that can actually work it's way under the coating.
With hot dip the coating is self healing so when you get a deep scratch the zinc migrates to fill the gap created.

Yeah, you're right about it being self-healing. The issue I had is that there was very little galvanizing left. The previous owner(s) must have had this thing in fairly salty conditions. Instead of searching around to find a place that could hot dip it, I went to a friend for the powdercoating. Being that I got it cheap I'm not too concerned. The powdercoat sheds dirt and mud a little easier too. I'm not going to be doing any crawling, just some trips, so for me the skids are just sort of an insurance thing....but I'd rather have them than not. Should they get scratched up at some point in the future I'll just re-powdercoat them.
 

ExpoScout

Explorer
Yeah, I was mainly just mentioning if for others who may be looking at something similar.

Honestly I think that these skids could have been aluminum and would work just as well...I might have to reproduce them at some point. Though it's not a priority right now.


Well, back to the issues I've had at hand:

-Got the radiator back in and have been driving it, no more cooling issues :wings:
-Got the transfer case fluid changed...decided to go with Lucas gear oil in 80/90.

As far as the oil light goes, I've been fully expecting that the end result is me having to replace the oil pump. But in the name of not jumping to conclusions I decided to try every simple option besides that to see if the problem could be fixed.

I switched from the 5w30 to 10w40 first of all. Drove around yesterday and while the oil light did not come on quite as fast, it did eventually come on. But just as before it was only at low idle.

After reading some more and talking to some other people who's opinions I value, I decided that I'd try to go even thicker with the oil just to see what happens.

Before I got the chance to try that, however, I decided to pull the oil pressure relief valve to see if by some chance it was the culprit. Pulled it, everything looked good...well, except for the o-ring on the cap. Reinstalled it with a new o-ring (This has been one of the only persistent leaks I've had thus far) and since the process spilled some oil, I replaced the lost quart with some marvel mystery oil. I figured what the heck, I'd be changing the oil anyway, and the MMO might clean the engine out a bit in the mean time.

Well, I got everything buttoned up and decided to drive it to pick up the new oil and filter. Drove out there, picked up the oil, all the while never seeing the oil light even begin to flicker. Hmm. So I decided to go for a longer drive, this time about 30 miles round trip, taking it slow, making sure it got up to temp and this wasn't a fluke.

Sure enough, the entire time, no oil light. Drove it some more afterwards, still no light. So basically where I'm at now is that I'm optimistic that the light is going to stay off. I don't know if perhaps the o-ring could have been letting some pressure leak off or if the MMO did some type of magic (it is mysterious you know).

So anyway, as of this moment all my problems have been resolved and the disco is running great.

It's currently all packed up for a trip up to Linville, NC for the weekend with Storz to ride some trails and hang out. We will see how things go, but I do have the 20w50 and some Lucas in case I encounter any more problems. I will be bolting the skids back on in the morning and fixing a problem with the bumper lights on the ARB. Will report back after the weekend...and I'm sure you'll all get some pics too. :costumed-smiley-007
 

Storz

Explorer
It's currently all packed up for a trip up to Linville, NC for the weekend with Storz to ride some trails and hang out. We will see how things go, but I do have the 20w50 and some Lucas in case I encounter any more problems. I will be bolting the skids back on in the morning and fixing a problem with the bumper lights on the ARB. Will report back after the weekend...and I'm sure you'll all get some pics too. :costumed-smiley-007

Looking forward to it!!:wings:

I've got the camera charged up and ready!
 

Wander

Expedition Leader
Yes! First outing with the DI!

Hoping the O ring solved it for you-that makes sense that a bad seal would allow too much pressure out and trigger the light.
 

ExpoScout

Explorer
Went on a little weekend trip with Storz and our wives: http://www.expeditionportal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=53763

D1 did great...cooling issues were non-existent. Oil light DID flicker on for a bit at one point (after stopping during a long ascent)....shut it down just to check things and I never saw it again...put almost 300 miles on it. I'm a lot more confident in its abilities after this weekend. It was a really good time.

I really can tell that I need to downsize the tires a bit...hopefully will be doing it soon. Gauges are going to be my next mod though. Along with some other things I'll leave as surprises. :p
 

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