upgrade Sport or Rubicon?

[GetOutThere]

Just looked at Jeep.ca and the difference between equally base Rubi vs Sport S is $4750 (roughly)

Things you get for that $4.75k that are NOT on the Sport S:
-Premium(ish) sound system
-Power windows and locks
-Air Conditioning
-4.10s
-Front/rear D44s (front is D44...ish)
-Front/rear E lockers
-E Swaybar disco
-Mud tires
-Rock rails
-Different suspension

It was an easy decision for me. My Jeep is my DD, and things like a good(ish) sound system, power options, and AC were important to me.

It was also important that with 4.10s and the automatic, I do not need to regear for 35s.

If I ever find my Rubi wanting for off road ability (which I haven't yet) all I have to do is slap on a 2.5" lift (4" is overkill and can fit 37s) and 35s.

 

[Dan Grec]

Just looked at Jeep.ca and the difference between equally base Rubi vs Sport S is $4750 (roughly)

Things you get for that $4.75k that are NOT on the Sport S:
-Premium(ish) sound system
-Power windows and locks
-Air Conditioning
-4.10s
-Front/rear D44s (front is D44...ish)
-Front/rear E lockers
-E Swaybar disco
-Mud tires
-Rock rails
-Different suspension

You can add the extra low-range t-case to that list.

I'd be interested in seeing the price difference when the take away the sound system and power windows and locks from the Rubicon.

-Dan

 

[Septu]

You can add the extra low-range t-case to that list.

I'd be interested in seeing the price difference when the take away the sound system and power windows and locks from the Rubicon.

-Dan

Dan, when I ordered my 2012 Rubicon, the sound system and power windows/locks was not an option and came included.

 

[GetOutThere]

Dan, when I ordered my 2012 Rubicon, the sound system and power windows/locks was not an option and came included.

Yup, same here. Power options and the sound system aren't options on the Rubi, and can't be deleted according to my dealer.

 

[Dan Grec]

Dan, when I ordered my 2012 Rubicon, the sound system and power windows/locks was not an option and came included.

According to this post, you can delete them:
http://www.expeditionportal.com/forum/threads/69011-Ordering-a-Jeep?p=982338#post982338

-Dan

EDIT: UPDATE:

The guys at wranglerforum.com say you can order a '13 two-door Rubicon without the power group.
You can also order a '13 JKU Rubicon with 1/2 doors that will remove the power group too (but then you can't have some other things, apparently, like dual tops)

 

[Deleted member 48574]

The other thing to consider if Overlanding in North America is warranty - if you have a stock Rubicon and need a repair, any Chrysler dealership will (or at least really should) honor the warranty.

I have read horror stories of modified vehicles being turned away from warranty service, even when it's not a part impacted by the mod (one will still get service but have to pay for it). This may be less of a big deal if you have a good relationship with your local dealer, but it can cause problems if you are on a trip.

"Keep it simple keep it stock" is my motto, but it really depends on what you want your Jeep to do. No point in keeping it stock if it's not going to go where you want it. Though, I'd argue most Jeeps are way overbuilt for what they are used for.

Regards
Craig

 

[Brandon Libby]

I have read horror stories of modified vehicles being turned away from warranty service, even when it's not a part impacted by the mod (one will still get service but have to pay for it). This may be less of a big deal if you have a good relationship with your local dealer, but it can cause problems if you are on a trip.

Aftermarket parts have the potential to make things a little more complicated at the dealership. However, dealers are not permitted to reject warranty repairs for simply having aftermarket components. That is, unless they can prove that the offending part has in fact created the warranty issue (see the Magnuson-Moss Warranty Act).

According to the FTC, aftermarket parts only void your warranty if they are proven to be the cause of the problem.

If you are truly torn between the Rubicon model and the standard model, sit down with a pen and a pad and write down what modifications you would perform to the standard model. Next, go onto the Jeep website and compare your list to the Rubicon and see what the Rubicon has that you didn't write down. After your comparison, it will really come down to a money -what parts can you not live without?

For me a rear locker and sway bar disconnects would be mandatory. Both of these can be had in the aftermarket for a reasonable price. You can get an ARB for ~$1000 plus ~$200+ for the air compressor and a set of JKS disconnects for ~$175. If you opt for the CMK12, you will also be able to use your compressor to air up on the trail. All this and you will be well under the $8000 difference in the Rubicon upgrade, and you still have ~$6000 left over to buy bigger tires, gears, and a lift.

Food for thought, :chowtime:

Brandon

 

[JIMBO]

:sombrero: Lookatit this way, there are two scenerios !

#1
Buy a dirt cheap/no frills/no power acc./ basic sport mod--etc

If you pay cash, you WILL save from 5 to 10K, but your gonna have "down time" for every suspension mod you make, especially the diff's/xfer case-
If you financeit--you save "0", then you'll have to comeup with cash/borrow for every mod you make and for resale, you'll realize approx. 20% of what you've spent over the months/years-??
If it's a DD-then what do you drive?

#2
Buy a Rubicon, then if you're a light/moderate wheeler--do nothing

Resale potential will be approx. 90% of your purchase cost--for YEARS-

You'll never lose money on a Rubicon, you may not use all the extras, often,ever, but-

If you buya sport and just throw on big tires and "neat" wheels---you may be socially happy, but soon you will have a lotta problems--mileage/rubbing/power loss/axles/ fenders-the list grows=

Whatever

Have a great day

:costumed-smiley-007:wings: JIMBO


Just a thought-

 

[Pushrod]

I considered going with the Sport/X standard version and upgrading. After looking at all the things that had to be changed and the work involved I decided to just buy the Rubicon Unlimited. I would rather be out wheeling the hours away that I would be wrenching trying to make it as good/better than a Rubicon. As stated Chrysler will warrenty what I bend/break with my Lifetime warranty. I don't think I will be doing the wheeling it takes to twist axles off anyway. I do have lots of fun wheeling but I don't have access to anything like the Rubicon Trail or Moab's worst in my area. If I decide to make a real crawler it won't be with my daily driver fully loaded Rubicon-bashing in doors and such. I would modify an older model instead.

 

[Deleted member 48574]

Aftermarket parts have the potential to make things a little more complicated at the dealership. However, dealers are not permitted to reject warranty repairs for simply having aftermarket components. That is, unless they can prove that the offending part has in fact created the warranty issue (see the Magnuson-Moss Warranty Act).

According to the FTC, aftermarket parts only void your warranty if they are proven to be the cause of the problem.


Brandon

Your whole post brings up some very good points. And yes, I know Chrysler isn't supposed to deny warranty claims without proofing correlation by I have heard of them doing that with very thin proof. Not to say it'll happen often but if you are 1 week in to a 3 week trip that could cause more headaches then you'd want. When it's stock, there's no question -- it gets fixed.

Thy being said if you are the type of fellow who installs your own aftermarket kit, as many here are, then you are all set if something breaks and you have the tools. I'd argue if you are so inclined warranty is a moot point.

The only other thing ill mention in your post is you forgot to mention in your adding up of parts a critically important piece -- vinyl adhesive decals that say RUBICON on the hood. That's gotta be worth the extra 6k, no?

 

[JIMBO]

:sombrero: Nah, Decals are dirt cheap----but Having the Real Rubicon and the VIN proof, is worth the 6K-

Your whole post brings up some very good points. And yes, I know Chrysler isn't supposed to deny warranty claims without proofing correlation by I have heard of them doing that with very thin proof. Not to say it'll happen often but if you are 1 week in to a 3 week trip that could cause more headaches then you'd want. When it's stock, there's no question -- it gets fixed.

Thy being said if you are the type of fellow who installs your own aftermarket kit, as many here are, then you are all set if something breaks and you have the tools. I'd argue if you are so inclined warranty is a moot point.

The only other thing ill mention in your post is you forgot to mention in your adding up of parts a critically important piece -- vinyl adhesive decals that say RUBICON on the hood. That's gotta be worth the extra 6k, no?

:costumed-smiley-007:wings: JIMBO

 

[DesertJK]

Get the Rubicon.

I sold my 1995 Discovery with 33's, OME suspension, expensive drive shafts, bumper, rack, and on and on...
Sold my other 1995 Discovery that was stock (plane was to make one real nice one out of two) and our miserable Freelander POS. I took the Cash and put more than 1/2 down on a JK, had the financing through my credit union pre-worked out (as in check ready to go)
I walked into the Jeep dealer, told them what I wanted to pay and got told to %$#@ off. Called every dealer in Oregon, NoCal, and Washington. They either didn't have the specific Jeep I wanted or wouldn't budge on the price.
Got a call about two weeks into the search from the local dealer. They said if I still wanted the Jeep, the found what I wanted 150 miles away (at another Jeep dealer) and would meet my offer (28,000 out the door, next fees beyond that)

I rushed right down and bought it.

I had a little trouble with it at first. Mostly the transmission popping out of gear, loose exhaust manifolds, and a leaking waterpump. All fixed under warranty. I have not had another problem since and I will turn over 80K miles before the first of the year.

As it sits right now, I have very little left to pay on the loan and the payment is very small and with low interest. I have upgraded to American Racing Mohave wheels with 33" mud terrains, RK 2.5 lift, Bilstien remote res. shocks, Smitty built bumper, Hella 4000's and a smittly built winch.

I see sport's and x's around town with body lifts and 35's that by the look of them have not even been down a fire road. I have wheeled the crap out of this Jeep. In the winter, I use 4 low and lockers a few times a week taking the interesting route to work. At anytime, I am willing to hop in without so much as checking the oil, and make an all day trip at highway speeds.

I had the same dilema as you when I was looking for what would replace my Disco. Go with the Rubicon. Unless you want a trailer queen rock crawler, a near stock Rubicon will go just about anywhere, and still get you back home. The time and money spent modifiying a lesser Jeep and be spent on fuel and wheeling.

Also, forget 35's. Very few of you spend as much time on dirt as I do, and there has not been one single time when bigger tires would have allowed me to go somewhere that 33's couldn't do. Ok, maybe a few feet further. What you save on broken axles and worse mileage, spend on skids and a decent winch.

If I was looking for a dedicated rock crawler, I wouldn't base it on a 20K plus new Jeep anyways. I would buy a well used TJ, YJ, CJ or the like and start with it.

D.

 

[Nomad_K]

Having gone through this decision myself - it all comes down to what you want to do with the Jeep.

I wanted something for longer trips when I got back to the mainland while being able to hit trails while I am here in Hawaii. I love my JKUR! Front and rear factor lockers, enough tire and clearance off the showroom floor to do everything and more than I am currently capable of, and everyone in the local Jeep club loves it . In the long run, it will also save me money, at least on this Jeep. Because I paid for the lockers and D44's, I will probably pass on 35's, so whatever wheel and tire combination I go with will be more reasonable and better for those long drives I have planned. The 32~33 inch tires will also let me skip axle, driveshaft, and axle truss upgrades. In the unlikely event that I sell this one, I think I will get more money out of a near stock Rubi than I would from a heavily modified base JK.

Now, with all of that said If I had owned a Jeep before, and if I was moving somewhere with alot of trails and fewer open roads, I would have picked up a sport with factory airconditiong and done something similar to what nota944mechanic mentioned: On board air, lockers, upgraded gears (4.10 or 4.56 depending on tire size), RCV's (if going to 35's), a Metal Cloak or Rock Krawler suspension, an aluminum front bumper, and a full set of skids.