Very light duty/load trailer on 1250lb axle - offroad

[booksix]

I know the first thing said about building an offroad trailer will be "get a 3500 lb axle" but there's no way I can afford the axle and shipping right now however I need something for a trip to Moab in a couple months... here's my situation:

I need a small trailer that can carry some extra gear; whatever I can't fit in the back of my Wrangler (seat in) - more on that later. I have a 4'x8' folding trailer that I had to buy last time I moved and I want to re-use the frame (modified/welded), springs, etc. for my trailer. The plan is to center the axle on the front 4'x4' section and remove/use the rear 4'x4' section as the trailer top, so were talking tiny trailer, literally 4'x4'. I also might omit the top and have no sides to save weight (everything will be strapped down).

The axle is a dinky 1250lb axle made up of a pair of spindles (1" bearings) on a 1.5" C-channel center but the weight rating may also come partially from the fact that the trailer is all bolt together and folds in two places (tongue and center)! This center section will be split in the middle and sleeved with square tubing over the full length, also allowing me to extend the axle to make up for wider wheels with given backspacing. I was going to order 5 on 4.5" hubs so I can run the same wheels with some extra tires I have - also matching the jeep - so I have a single spare for both Jeep and trailer.

Now, the load: at most I'll be loading the trailer with a 40qt cooler (possibly on the tongue) full of drinks and food, 10-15 gallons of fuel, 5 gallons of water, a couple bundles of firewood, a couple tents and camp chairs, a small toolbox and a couple spare Jeep axles. I would guess 200-350 lbs max, at any time.

The use is off-road, the most extreme being tough-enough trails, requiring 4-lo, sway bar disconnection (treg type coupler will be used) and high clearance vehicles. However, this is typically only to a campsite where we can leave the trailer before doing more extreme wheeling. In a single trip the trailer would probably only see 5-6 miles of rocky, boulder laden obstacle-ish trails and the rest would light duty roads and trails easily handled by any Subaru or light pick-up truck... So, what are some thoughts? My main concern was the small bearings holding up. They are in great condition even after 1,300 miles of cross country driving with over 1000lbs loaded on it if that helps at all. Thoughts?

 

[Mamontof]

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Friends of mine use them heavily , simple purchase a warranty and if some thing broken simple return to store and exchange ,
Harbor They cheap ...but for $ 1000 you can pick up Army http://www.mylittlesalesman.com/trailers/sale/category/militarytrailers/

 

[booksix]

I'm not sure you read my entire post (I know, long, sorry) but I already have this trailer to mod:

http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=90154

 

[Mamontof]

Some modification

http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f104/harbor-freight-folding-trailer-modification-write-up-review-463480/

Plus have chance to take look http://www.supplierlist.com/manufacturer-Pv_Junction_Box.htm
Really hard to brake

http://www.toolshedofamerica.com/Trailers/landscape/NNTTrailers.htm

 

[REasley]

Where are you located?

If you are going to the trouble to replace the hubs and retube the axle, why not pick up a couple of 1 3/8" spindles and weld up your own axle? Spindles are cheap and the axle tube is mild steel. The only thing special about factory built axles is the small preload bow they put in the tube.

The 1" bearings will probably hold up for you. Repack them, replace the seal and give it a shot. Because the inner and outer bearings are both the same size, be very careful to keep track of which is inner and outer. If you reverse them they will likely fail. Keep your highway speed reasonable and every time you stop touch the hub to check the temperature.

Good luck

 

[booksix]

I'm in Boulder, CO. And that is basically what I have already: spindles assembled into a steel, c-channel axle "tube". So, I'm not so much re-tubing anything as I am extending and strengthening the entire assembly. Thanks for the input!

And Mamontof, thanks for the pic, thats a sweet little trailer!

 

[sjk99]

Mamontof,
Are you saying that this picture is of a HF trailer after modifications? I looked through the Jeepforum thread and didn't see this and would be happy to look through 20 pages of Supplier Forum but would like to know if a pellet will fall into my cup somewhere in there.

thanks.

 

[macinsac]

The trailer in the picture is from SIERRA4X4.COM A very high quality trailer built from scratch in northern Nevada.

Don

 

[Mamontof]

Mamontof,
Are you saying that this picture is of a HF trailer after modifications?

That a idea :drool:

I wish i can go to Pa and make some photos , hay my BUDDY after 6 pack simple update China products HF ...by simple install hi springs on red china frame HF

 

[cruisertoy]

Personally I would be concerned with the HF trailer without some sort of axle/tire change. If you really are only going to take it on a few slow fire roads to get to a campsite you would be fine. Taking it over rocky terrain would be scary. Just the requirement for a high clearance vehicle for the terrain would require larger tires than the 12" ones on the trailer. With larger tires, you are looking at greater forces on the axle spindles. To clear larger tires you will need to add taller springs. I'd say use the trailer as it is and commit yourself not to go beyond camp with it. Doing much work to it may be like putting lipstick on a pig.

 

[booksix]

The trailer will have 33's, not the 12" wheels. Yes, certainly extra forces come into play with bigger tires but I think that may only apply to a vehicle because only in the vehicle are you putting power TO these parts and are adding stress to turn the extra weight etc...

Now, if we think of this on a trailer: while driving, the larger tires will actually cause the hubs/bearing to turn slower than they would have with stock size tires, just because the big tires goes further per rotation. And, because the trailer is merely dragged by the tow vehicle, the tires are now turning the hubs and not the other way around, like on the vehicle. If you really think about what is going on for a bit, it seems as though the trailer wouldn't know the difference when upping tires sizes (aside from thinking it's going slower). This was the conclusion me and a few other wheelers came to but if we are picturing this wrong I'd love to know why/how!!

 

[cruisertoy]

Booksix,
Maybe someone else can chime in with a little more concrete engineering, but I wouldn't be too worried about the towing it down the paved or even graded road. Its when you start putting all the extra dimension loads on it by pulling over rougher terrain that I would start sweating it. The leverage placed on those spindles and bearings is very different than regular towing. You may be right about the "driving" the wheel, but you have to consider the rotational force that you have changed. You went from a 10lb spinning mass to a 50lb spinning mass. You center line to edge of your tire has also change and as you tilt that trailer a little it's like having a longer prybar. The forces you put on that spindle and cheap HF welds just went up a ton.

I am pro-HF in a lot of things, but I always make sure I have a backup plan(like buying two of said tool). Throw a roof rack on your rig just in case the poor welds on the spindles fail somewhere along the lines. I have owned some of my HF tools (water cooled metal saw and drill press)for over13 yrs and they are still going strong and have been beat to heck. On the other hand I purchased 3 of the ball joint pullers and broke two of them in the first 20 minutes of using them. Don't let a trailer issue ruin your trip. Personally the HF trailers have always scared me a little because I know my tendency to overload things like that. Heck, my 1/2 ton ford is treated like a 1 ton more times than not. Good luck and keep us posted as to your progress.

 

[Ted_Z]

Since you're sort on cash, want to widen the track and swap to 5x4.5" bolt pattern you might use the rear axle from a chrysler minivan from your local junk yard. You'll be in to it for less than the new hubs and should take the stresses from the larger tires

 

[RHINO]

like cruisertoy is trying to say,,,, its the weight of big tires/rims that really dictate the popular use of a 3500# axle. your 1250# axle will hold up for a while but the sheer weight of your tires will eventually bust a spindle or take out the bearings. i know it sounds weird not having power to them, but, its been done.

 

[booksix]

Thanks. I totally wasn't thinking of the loads other than rotational! Good call. I think I'm going to spend a bit of time prepping the frame and making my coupling. In the meantime I'll try to find an axle on craigslist.

As for the minivan axle, I thought about that but, having spent the last 6 years in CA, expected yards to charge an arm and a leg for that. Plus new bearings, etc... depending on condition. But I suppose it's worth a shot. I didn't really want to swap in something that didn't have electric brakes but you make a good point if I can get the whole thing for less than the cost of the hubs!