'97 Dodge Ram 2500, 4x4 Cummins Powered

[Regcabguy]

Nice build! Not many of us 2nd gen Rams out there being built. Wanted to pass along some info on that steering brace though. I recently removed that style and installed a new one made by Dodge Offroad that only mounts on the driver side frame rail. The design you have works great on the road, but our frames have so much frame flex in them that one rail will actually pull the output shaft while articulating and cause a leak that eventually becomes a bad seal.

Here's my truck and the new support:

Here's the website.
http://www.dodgeoffroad.com/store_DORbrace2g.php

I'm hoping to start a thread on here soon. Even though it's more of an offroad rig than an expedition rig right now, I have plans to build a bed-top tent and convert a HMMWV trailer to a tow-behind everything else.

DOR's going to be producing one for us 3rd gen guys soon. I wonder if it's such an issue with our much stiffer hydroformed frames?

 

[redthies]

DOR's going to be producing one for us 3rd gen guys sson. I wonder if it's such an issue with our much stiffer hydroformed frames?

I might be more interested if DORs welds didn't look like they were done by a six year old! I don't mean to be harsh, but WOW, those are not great beads! I think the design idea makes sense though.

 

[Regcabguy]

Agreed! Good design but a better fabrication is in order.

 

[swirvin21]

DJ is the owner and is a good friend. To be honest, the powder coating does make the welds look worse than they really are. Since I bash things up and paint them rattle can black later, I usually tell him not to worry about sending the pretty stuff. It's a 2 man business, him and a local welder, neither are pros, but I have yet to have anything give me concerns on holding up. I'll be installing his front long arm brackets and doing a major overhaul on the truck soon. Looking to start a thread.

I can't tell you about the tow hooks I'm afraid because I don't have any, on either 2nd gen actually. There are 3 holes on a stock frame, only 2 on a 1998 2500 frame for some reason, that the support bolts into. I don't believe the tow hooks go there as the holes aren't big enough in my opinion. Best bet is to email or PM DJ on his website as he is working full time, looking to move and running DOR, so his voicemails get full and he checks his emails more frequently.

 

[ExpoMike]

After our Death Valley trip in March, I noticed the steering wheel being off about 15-20*. I think I bent part of the steering linkage on the trail. Since this was all original 152,000 mile linkage, it was time to upgrade. After a lot of research, I went with the '99 Dodge 2500 HD linkage. This converts to a "T" style linkage, which is a better overall setup. The stock "Y" linkage doesn't tie the two wheels together and you will get bump steer from it. It is also not as strong. Swap took about 2 hours. Still need to figure out a steering stabilizer setup as the HD setup does not have built in mounts for it.

Stock, old Y linkage

New linkage

Really easy swap. While having the alignment done, we found the brakes are toast and one rotor is loose on the hub. Getting all new parts for brakes and hubs. $$$ but should be well spent money.

 

[bloodyWEST]

excellent! thanks for the pics. steering feel tighter?

I need to rebuild my brakes too, and that means bearings while Im in there, and that = big $$$ like you said. guessing $5-600 in parts?

i thought about your truck and Gohler wash this weekend while i was in Lone Pine.....how is you camper attached? and do you like it?

 

[ExpoMike]

excellent! thanks for the pics. steering feel tighter?

I need to rebuild my brakes too, and that means bearings while Im in there, and that = big $$$ like you said. guessing $5-600 in parts?

i thought about your truck and Gohler wash this weekend while i was in Lone Pine.....how is you camper attached? and do you like it?

Yeah, it seems tighter. Not sure if that's just due to new parts versus 152,000 mile ones. Really should see a difference offroad as the tires should stay pointed in the same direction.

I am doing new hubs, rotors, calipers, pads, SS flex lines and studs. Closer to $800 but all high end parts. Since the truck is almost always near GVW, I did not want to cheap out on any of these parts. I could knock about $200-$300 on the lower end stuff but never want to think about the money I might save when I am broken on the trail due to cheap parts.

As for the mounting of the camper, it is using the FWC turnbuckle method. I am using rated eye loops in the bed and did a major reinforcement of the tie downs in the camper. If you click on my FWC thread in my signature, I have pics of what I did. As for do I like it, it works but wouldn't be my first choice in mounting.

 

[bloodyWEST]

thanks, i will have to go read your FWC thread.

are you aware of the ford d60 knuckle swaps? i have been reading up on it on Pirate.

Im leaning twords that route, so i dont have to hassle with the dodge unit bearings ever again, and you gain lockout hubs, and dual piston brakes.


either way, post up with your results.
Thanks

 

[ExpoMike]

thanks, i will have to go read your FWC thread.

are you aware of the ford d60 knuckle swaps? i have been reading up on it on Pirate.

Im leaning twords that route, so i dont have to hassle with the dodge unit bearings ever again, and you gain lockout hubs, and dual piston brakes.


either way, post up with your results.
Thanks

Yeah, I had read up on that but I am in a time crunch to have this done in the next week or so and trying to source parts wasn't in my time frame. Also, I figured since we only put about 5000-6000 miles a year on this truck, even if I only got 25K out of the hubs, that would take 4-5 years. I bought the SKF hubs, which are supposed to be the top of the line and they rate them for 100K+. It is unlikely I'll own the truck by the time I need to replace them again. I would like the dual piston brakes though....

 

[mortonm]

any updates? I enjoyed reading through this thread, lots of great ideas and you didnt go overboard with anything

 

[ExpoMike]

any updates? I enjoyed reading through this thread, lots of great ideas and you didnt go overboard with anything

No, not since the steering linkage upgrade. Truck has been running well. I have some plans for later in the year but need to finish up a couple of other car projects I have.

I did get some portable solar panels setup but no pics.

 

[mortonm]

Looking forward to future updates, thanks

 

[MT6bt]

Hello,
I too have a `12 valve cummins. Almost the same setup as yours. only difference is mine is a 98. I was wondering what kind of MPG you're seeing with your FWC?

 

[ExpoMike]

Hello,
I too have a `12 valve cummins. Almost the same setup as yours. only difference is mine is a 98. I was wondering what kind of MPG you're seeing with your FWC?

If I keep it below 70mph, I am getting 16-17mpg of freeway only driving. If I do a mix of off highway/on highway, I'm about 14-15mpg. That's sitting at 8500 lbs. and the aerodynamics of a brick.

 

[ExpoMike]

I never got around to posting this as I didn't realize I took pics. Found them last night so figured I would post up some work I did back in Oct. last year. After getting the steering linkage swapped in, during the alignment we found some issues with the brakes. I ended up replacing the hubs, rotors, calipers, pads but did not get the braided brake lines in as I was running on a deadline and there are a couple hard lines I was afraid might have issues coming apart. I also am trying out the new Hawk SD pads which are supposed to be for severe duty. Outside of the first couple of stops being long due to the pads being cold, once a little heat is in them, the work very well.

Old parts - actually found the pass. side one, the rotor was rotating on the hub due to someone incorrectly pressing the studs in

Pads almost gone and torn caliper boots

Many hundreds of dollars worth of parts. By replacing everything, I could assemble the hubs/rotors prior to disassembling the old ones.

Unlike slip on rotors, the hubs slide in from the front and the studs push through from the back, to lock the rotor between them. Not very user friendly needless to say!

Used Grade 8 nuts and washers to start pulling the studs through.

Pieces I machined up to allow me to push in the studs on my press

Stud through the tubing, solid piece pushing on the back of the stud. One down... 15 to go

One rotor completed

I had big problems getting the axle nuts off. Breaker bar with 4' long pipe didn't budge them. My Snap-On 600 ft. lbs. impact did not budge them. I had to go out and buy a BIG impact wrench!!! It got them off

Old hub and rotor off

New hub, rotor, caliper and pads installed. Still needed to put the cotter pin back in