Another Tacoma Build (Brian's 2015 DCLB)

SSF556

SE Expedition Society
So you got rid of the JK because of issues....so you picked up a new Tacoma that now has driveline shudder below 15mph and a slight vibration above 70mph....just giving you a hard time....look forward to the build...also keep an eye out for rust...:coffeedrink:
 

Adventurous

Explorer
What size Icons did you end up getting? I'd be curious to know how much more travel they net you. Also, any intentions to remove your sway bar?
 

brianjwilson

Some sort of lost...
I may have missed it, but what size tires are you planning on running?
255/85r16


So you got rid of the JK because of issues....so you picked up a new Tacoma that now has driveline shudder below 15mph and a slight vibration above 70mph....just giving you a hard time....look forward to the build...also keep an eye out for rust...:coffeedrink:
Hah. These minor issues are nothing compared to the JK. I expected both of these things to happen and know the fix for both. One of them costs $60 and is sitting in my garage. ;)
I'm not concerned about rust since we don't salt here, use magnesium chloride minimally and the truck is garaged.
 

brianjwilson

Some sort of lost...
What size Icons did you end up getting? I'd be curious to know how much more travel they net you. Also, any intentions to remove your sway bar?

The rear icons were a custom length, but brad at icon recommended a part number of an existing shock that is 1/2" shorter. But much less expensive as again it is an existing part number and just needs valved. The will be 15.85" collapsed and 26.18" extended. The "normal" rear icons for 0-2" lift are 14.92" compressed and 24.22" extended. So I will gain 2" of droop or around an inch of overall shock travel. Based on my measurements the rear spring pack could easily droop to 27" or more.
Anyway they are 2.5s with CDC valving, 25% stiffer than a normal tacoma valve job. Running on the softest setting should be close to normal tacoma valving.

Yes I'll have to mess with bump stops a little bit, but that's fine. If I'm running timbrens to carry the camper, they will be limiting the compression anyway. So I'll have more usable travel all around for how it will be setup.

No plans to remove the sway bar long term since it will be a camper hauler. Maybe if the camper is off and I'm planning on wheeling with some friends, but hauling the camper around with my daughter it will be probably stay on.
 

brianjwilson

Some sort of lost...
So you got rid of the JK because of issues....so you picked up a new Tacoma that now has driveline shudder below 15mph and a slight vibration above 70mph....just giving you a hard time....look forward to the build...also keep an eye out for rust...:coffeedrink:


Also just to be fair, the JK had issues right of the lot, completely stock. The driveline vibrations were acknowledged and documented by the dealer before lifting it. They said they get a lot of complaints but had no fix. I showed them the sloppy output shaft bearings and we looked at others on the lot that did the same. The tech shrugged and said I guess it's normal. Fourth gear never worked right, grinded into gear, popped out of gear etc from day one. Had to have both cases rebuilt.

As for the tacoma, nobody else has noticed either issue yet, riding in the truck. The low speed shudder is only there under higher power settings, and the high speed from the clamshell bearing is only noticed because I'm intensely look for it and still on P rated street tires. Nobody else has detected it when I asked them. I'm hyper sensitive to vibration because I fly helicopters offshore for a living.
 

Yulli

Yulli the Yeti
255/85r16

What tire? I can't find anything in that size that I'd like to go with. I just got my Tacoma and I'm trying to plan out what I want to get. I'd like to go with the new AT that BGF came out with but they don't offer that size.
 

SSF556

SE Expedition Society
Also just to be fair, the JK had issues right of the lot, completely stock. The driveline vibrations were acknowledged and documented by the dealer before lifting it. They said they get a lot of complaints but had no fix. I showed them the sloppy output shaft bearings and we looked at others on the lot that did the same. The tech shrugged and said I guess it's normal. Fourth gear never worked right, grinded into gear, popped out of gear etc from day one. Had to have both cases rebuilt.

As for the tacoma, nobody else has noticed either issue yet, riding in the truck. The low speed shudder is only there under higher power settings, and the high speed from the clamshell bearing is only noticed because I'm intensely look for it and still on P rated street tires. Nobody else has detected it when I asked them. I'm hyper sensitive to vibration because I fly helicopters offshore for a living.

Just ribbing ya...I understand I am not a fan of squeaks or vibrations either...and I got 4Runner/Tacoma on the brain...
 

SSF556

SE Expedition Society
What tire? I can't find anything in that size that I'd like to go with. I just got my Tacoma and I'm trying to plan out what I want to get. I'd like to go with the new AT that BGF came out with but they don't offer that size.

Copper ST Maxx?
 

Yulli

Yulli the Yeti
Copper ST Maxx?

Hmmm. I'll look into them. The article I found on the Expo site rated them to be pretty good. I don't know a lot about Cooper but that article has peaked my interest in them.

Sorry for getting off topic.
 

brianjwilson

Some sort of lost...
Hmmm. I'll look into them. The article I found on the Expo site rated them to be pretty good. I don't know a lot about Cooper but that article has peaked my interest in them.

Sorry for getting off topic.

No worries I get off topic and ramble all the time. ;) I'm indeed going with the st maxx. Toyos are kind of over rated to me. $600 more for a set and everyone here seems to wear them out quick. Plus les Schwab will probably break studs in the process. The new BFG looks nice but I think they will suck in our thick clay mud, while the st maxx seems to work better.

Hopefully the tires will get in by Friday because I decided to order new wheels and they should be in Saturday!

The upper control arms should be in tomorrow so I'm going to try to get an alignment scheduled for Friday.
 

Yulli

Yulli the Yeti
No worries I get off topic and ramble all the time. ;) I'm indeed going with the st maxx. Toyos are kind of over rated to me. $600 more for a set and everyone here seems to wear them out quick. Plus les Schwab will probably break studs in the process. The new BFG looks nice but I think they will suck in our thick clay mud, while the st maxx seems to work better.

Hopefully the tires will get in by Friday because I decided to order new wheels and they should be in Saturday!

The upper control arms should be in tomorrow so I'm going to try to get an alignment scheduled for Friday.

I want to try the new BFG AT's that came out. But they don't come in the 255 size. I'd kind of like to find a tire in the 255 size so I may look into the ST Maxx.

I had MT on my Jeep and I don't think I want go that route again since most of my driving is on pavement and then just exploring forest service roads. AT will do just fine.
 

cam-shaft

Bluebird days
I'm indeed going with the st maxx. Toyos are kind of over rated to me. $600 more for a set and everyone here seems to wear them out quick. Plus les Schwab will probably break studs in the process. .

That is funny about Les Schwab, I was just talking to a guy about that the other day. I have a fair amount of friends who take there vehicles to les schwab and always telling me about a broken stud. I'm just like, I don't get it. :) Les Schwab stores are definitely about each individual store as far as quality. Interested in your thoughts on the coopers, I've been looking at those for a summer tire. Good call on the longer rear shock, so many people don't realize that there is more droop available with dakars, factory shackle set-up, and longer shock, but if you don't properly set-up your bumps then you have a leaky shock:), I guess that is more why it is not offered unless you request.
Cameron.
 
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Adventurous

Explorer
The rear icons were a custom length, but brad at icon recommended a part number of an existing shock that is 1/2" shorter. But much less expensive as again it is an existing part number and just needs valved. The will be 15.85" collapsed and 26.18" extended. The "normal" rear icons for 0-2" lift are 14.92" compressed and 24.22" extended. So I will gain 2" of droop or around an inch of overall shock travel. Based on my measurements the rear spring pack could easily droop to 27" or more.
Anyway they are 2.5s with CDC valving, 25% stiffer than a normal tacoma valve job. Running on the softest setting should be close to normal tacoma valving.

Yes I'll have to mess with bump stops a little bit, but that's fine. If I'm running timbrens to carry the camper, they will be limiting the compression anyway. So I'll have more usable travel all around for how it will be setup.

No plans to remove the sway bar long term since it will be a camper hauler. Maybe if the camper is off and I'm planning on wheeling with some friends, but hauling the camper around with my daughter it will be probably stay on.

I'm sure you did the measurements to verify, but I was under the impression that the articulation of the leafs was the limiting factor in how much rear wheel droop you could get. If that wasn't the case the shock would essentially be your limiting strap which would almost certainly lead to premature failure.

Reason I asked about the sway bar was I wasn't sure if you installed the drop brackets. Granted the geometry may not play the same as with OME but I had a bit of interference running the lift with the sway bar in the stock location.
 

brianjwilson

Some sort of lost...
No the shock is definitely the limiting factor in this case. Well that and the brake lines both.
I think the rear OME shocks are slightly longer than stock, maybe an inch? I have less than 2" of droop in back right now with factory shocks. It felt like I nearly pulled one apart this morning pulling into the Safeway parking lot.

I would have to re measure again (I will when the rear shocks finally show up) but with the frame on jack stands, wheels/tires removed, I measured about 27" from the frame mounting point to the center of the axle mounting hole. That was without pushing down at all. I unbolted the brake cable brack while doing this of course. I'm sure if the truck was flexed out with tires mounted and everything it would be capable of a little more.

I wouldn't be too worried about shock failure if they are a little longer than stock, unless you're airing out the truck or something. But there is definitely extra travel to be had with a longer shock, as long as you pay attention to bump stops.
 

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