Boomer the Quadravan 4x4 Camper

[spencyg]

Thanks everybody. All the modifications have performed flawlessly and there isn't any need at this point to revisit anything. I had 3 grown men up on the roof rack a couple weeks ago without any problem at all. It is just about time to start thinking about the next level of suspension modifications as well as some upgrades to the braking system. I was seriously considering growing the rotor diameters up front, but I think I'll first leave them be and do a hydraulic booster conversion and a rear disc brake conversion. If I can find a deal on a late model GM 3500 van rear end (Dana 70 with discs) I may just swap that in, especially since part of the suspension upgrades will involve new rear leaf springs.

The interior is also going to be likely stripped out this winter at least from the front seats back. I'm tired of carpets and it is time for a serious facelift.

Man...the projects just keep coming!

SG

 

[tgreening]

Those roof rack mounts you glued on, how exactly did you do that? How did you put pressure on them until the glue cured, or was that even necessary?

 

[Petrolburner]

Those roof rack mounts you glued on, how exactly did you do that? How did you put pressure on them until the glue cured, or was that even necessary?

I think they were bolted and glued right?

 

[njtacoma]

It seems as though once you start bonding pieces of metal to the roof with an elastomer product marketed as "permanent" and "extremely strong", the potential for spectacular failure rises exponentially.



Side one, complete. The adhesive has cured and that rail "ain't goin' any'were". The waterjet house hasn't finished up the second round of tabs which were the result of an impressive miscount on my part. Mathematics, apparently, factor in to overland vehicle fabrication.


SG

I think the straps are providing downforce to squish out excessive "glue" and aid in bonding.

 

[spencyg]

Correct. I used 3m 5200 fast cure to bond. Nearly 1 full tube per side. There were 2 #10 x 3/4 sheet metal screws on each end which were used to secure the position of the rails and hold down the ends during adhesive setup, and straps were used to pull everything together during the cure. The end result is absolutely secure and relies 100% on the glue joint. There are no meaningful mechanical fasteners involved. I just put this system through some rigourous testing over the last 2 weeks without any issues.

SG

 

[IdaSHO]

Just as long as the surface you are bonding to is secure, you should be good.

That stuff is no joke.


Van is looking good, of the E-series vans out there, this is certainly my favorite body style.

Hearing about a major interior face-lift.... have you considered a complete exterior re-paint?

I think this rig in a solid color, off white, or even tan would look pretty stellar, and do a lot to modernize the look of it.

 

[Arctic Travelller]

. The end result is absolutely secure and relies 100% on the glue joint. There are no meaningful mechanical fasteners involved. SG

The glue joints will NEVER come loose. If you pulled hard enough, it would pull the fiberglass apart before the bond failed. Nice job

 

[Sheep Shagger]

The connection to the roof is thru a IP69K rated metal disconnect from Automation Direct. It isn't top-shelf equipment but has proven to be more than rugged for anything I'll throw at it.

Do you have a part# / name / something to search for that connector, I couldn't find it on http://www.automationdirect.com/

 

[spencyg]

Do you have a part# / name / something to search for that connector, I couldn't find it on http://www.automationdirect.com/

http://www.automationdirect.com/adc..._Series)/Size_3A_(3,_4,_5,_7_and_12_Terminals)

Here ya go. Basically you select your static mount, your removable connector, then the inserts for each end (one male, one female). You also need the cable termination for the removable connector. The unit I assembled above uses the following:

ZP-MC03A-1-MS004 Male Insert
ZP-MC03A-1-FS004 Female Insert
ZP-MC03A-2-SBHAM Base Connector
ZP-MC03A-2-STE11M Removable Connector
ZP-MC-CG-11M8 IP68 cable gland

The mounting plate was obviously custom and nothing fancy at that.

SG

 

[Sheep Shagger]

http://www.automationdirect.com/adc..._Series)/Size_3A_(3,_4,_5,_7_and_12_Terminals)

Here ya go. Basically you select your static mount, your removable connector, then the inserts for each end (one male, one female). You also need the cable termination for the removable connector. The unit I assembled above uses the following:

ZP-MC03A-1-MS004 Male Insert
ZP-MC03A-1-FS004 Female Insert
ZP-MC03A-2-SBHAM Base Connector
ZP-MC03A-2-STE11M Removable Connector
ZP-MC-CG-11M8 IP68 cable gland

The mounting plate was obviously custom and nothing fancy at that.

SG

Perfect, thanks so much. I've been looking for something like this for a similar application for months, but only came up with junk that I knew wouldn't last or a $300 connector for race cars.

 

[spencyg]

Rear disc brakes and a hydro boost. This should get interesting. Also, how do we feel about King coil overs?

:elkgrin:

SG

 

[justbecause]

Rear disc brakes and a hydro boost. This should get interesting. Also, how do we feel about King coil overs?

:elkgrin:

SG

 

[tgreening]

Rear disc brakes and a hydro boost. This should get interesting. Also, how do we feel about King coil overs?

:elkgrin:

SG

Honestly? Cool but probably overkill and money wasted. Pretty much the same with the dual shocks some put on. Unless you're blasting down the washboard and really putting those front shocks to work, most rigs will never tax their single shocks let alone duals.


When you do your hydroboost don't forget about the pump, or you might find your steering suddenly all wonky under hard braking.

 

[spencyg]

Hopefully it is clear by this point that bling has no place on Boomer. I am constantly fading the front shocks on washboard roads and they get mighty hot on higher speed dirt. The Rancho 9000 units I'm running are 2" units (emulsion) and though I know a 2" King and a 2" Rancho are not the same beast, I feel as though once I'm buying them, they might as well be sized for worse case. The coil over part of it comes from needing to replace the coil springs already which came from the factory on 2.5" of lift blocks. Hardly good practice. With the current shock locations I can't fit any higher end offering due to the compressed minimum height, so either I spend a bunch of money on the only spring package I can buy which bolts in, and then build custom shock towers, or I rip everything out, do a custom spring perch and then have a large selection of shocks and spring rates to choose from. The answer seems obvious. King makes a nice 2.5" body shock with remote reservoir, coil over body and 6" stroke. Fox doesn't have a 6". I can't fit an 8" without lifting higher and I don't want to do that.

As for the pump....yes...probably upgrading that shortly as well. Any recommendations? Current unit is a Saginaw.

SG

 

[philos]

I'd get some F.O.A. or King or Fox et al emulsion shocks and pair them with original style coils or leafs.
I've sent a couple emails to the folks at FOA, and they were pleasant and attentive.

And again, love your thread. Thank you!


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