Ramcharger Project

[Patman]

I won't be cutting the tub for sure. I doubt if I would ever do any cutting up front either. I'll hammer pinch welds or do some trimming that won't be noticeable cosmetically but I do not want to cut sheetmetal at all unless it is necessary to fit new bumpers.

I said the same thing!

 

[Squatchout]

I upgraded my truck to a '78 dana 70 rear and a '87 Dana 60 front when I did my lift. I actually got the hd 3/4 ton front swaybar with my axle. I used a Skyjacker 4" lift in front with Skyjacker nitrocharger shocks and drop bracket for the sway bar. I used a 3" dana 60 steering correction block on my king pin d60 and an adjustable drag link from Superlift.
On the rear I used 6" lift springs an a 1.25 block to get rid of the tall factory block. Same shocks. Also SS brake lines. I have a lot less spring wrap now. A concern when running a big block. The truck sits about perfect at 1" high in the rear. Mine is a step side short box. Think 4wd "Little Red Express".

It fit's 35's fine and with slight trimming up front I could probably go with 37's. Flex has been plenty for what I've used it for over the years and it drives great. You do notice the extra 900 lbs it gained in the axle swap. But that weight is down low and it's more stable lifted than stock.

All these older Dodges getting built has got me thinkng about working on my old junk.

 

[RU55ELL]

I went and picked it up today. As luck would have it, it wouldn't crank due a bad distributor or ignition module. We put a brand new coil on and that didn't fix the problem. I doubt it is the module since power is getting to the coil but there is no fire at the plugs.

Anyway, I ended up getting it for $300 cheaper, so I'm fine with that. I'm taking some much needed time off for the next few days and will take care of the problem later in the week.

 

[WILLD420]

I have a 2.5" lift on the front and an add-a-leaf in the rear of my 92. I trimmed the front fenders a LOT and will do more. Right now I've got some 36x12.50's on it on plain white spoke rims with generic backspacing. It flexes enough to get me where I need to go. The tires rub on the bottom of the rear flares under full flex so I know you can fit 36's in the rear without cutting.

The front is a tight fit for anything bigger than a 33 unless you lift 4" or cut the metal. I've got more mods on the way, but I can get a lot of places people don't think it will go with the current setup. Crossover steering is in the works someday, but I might either start a different rig, or go to 60 front before I do the crossover. So far the factory stuff is working very well. I'm now at the farthest point that going "Cheap" can get you. Everything from here on out, is going to require custom fabrication, or spending more money.

4.56 gears are o.k. up to 35's, but 4.88's would probably have been a better choice since the TBI engine is a real weakling, even in 360 form.

 

[RU55ELL]

I forgot to mention that I got the truck to the house yesterday. I checked the air gap between the pickup magnet and the reluctor but it was fine. Im still not getting fire from the coil to the plugs.

 

[RU55ELL]

I bought a new multimeter on the way home from work and it tested like the pickup magnet was bad. I got another and got the distributor back together by dark, so I'll be able to stab it and hopefully have it running in the morning. :crossfingers:

 

[RU55ELL]

.....and it's alive! It turned out to be the electronic ignition module. I'll get some pictures posted up later.

 

[Metcalf]

That will do it. Might be worth throwing a spare in the truck....

 

[Patman]

I always ran an offroad spec msd or crane unit which replaced the complete oem unit and carried an oem module for a trail spare. Never needed to use it, sure I would have if I didn't carry it.

 

[RU55ELL]

I updated the pics on the first page with new ones.

Also, the new pickup in the distributor.

Some other info for anyone that owns a Dodge with this type of distributor - the reluctor (the piece with the points/splines on it) is not a wear item unless it contacts the magnet continuously and wears the points off. The air gap between the trigger on the magnet and the points on the reluctor should be .006 - .008".

 

[RU55ELL]

This picture shows the faulty Mopar ignition control module on left, BWD module from O'Reilly's on the right.

The problem with the Mopar module was that the ground pin (#5) was bad. I got ground to the box itself, just not to the connector.

 

[dwh]

Man, I dig Rammers! Nice truck!

I commonly keep a second electronic module screwed down right next to the original - that way if it fails in the bush I can just swap over the cable and keep going.

RAMMING SPEED!

 

[RU55ELL]

Not much of an update but I replace all the disintegrated rubber shock bushings with new poly bushings this evening. The tranny pan is also leaking so I need to get on that too.

 

[RU55ELL]

I topped off the trans fluid and drove it around the neighborhood. I'll do a deep pan soon and replace the gasket when that happens.

New pics of the truck:

New rear hatch supports:

Cargo area:

Engine bay:

 

[sdwhip]

I really like that RC. I have always wanted one but have never gotten serious enough to buy one. I do have the complete drivetrain out of my 85 power ram that looked exactly like your RC. It was the some color inside and out with 33 inch BFG ATs like yours. It got totaled when a Caddy t boned me and then wrapped me around a light pole. The driver of the caddy was trying to get to IHOP for the senior early bird special that was ending in five minutes. The frame was bent so bad the bed was three feet past the passenger side of the cab and I was thrown from the drivers seat and my face shattered the passenger side of the windshield. I was pretty lucky to walk away from that with nothing more than a scratched up face. The motor has less than 10k miles and the tranny has less than 2k miles and I have wanted to pick up an RC to put them in. Every time I see yours it makes me want to start looking. I can't wait to see more work and some of your trips in it.