cactusjk
Explorer
As you can see by my recent posts I am still on the fence! The long build time gives us plenty of time to think through it. Still lots of questions and this thread has been very informative.
SoCal Tear Drop Owners! Post up!
- Thread starter Yulli
- Start date
cactusjk
Explorer
Speaking of research a few of my big remaining questions. We live in Northern CA.
Necessity of having a second battery?
Right now I have the 6" vent recommended by Treeline for Norcal Teardrops vice the 14". The 14" is a pretty big fan and requires a mod to the SCT roof rack. Seems like the larger fan could possibly leak. Thoughts?
The Triton water heaters are about $150. Why does SCT charge $750 to put an enclosure around it?
Really torn on the 30 Gal tank. Right now I have 2 Scepter can holders along with some RotopaX. We will probably do 3 day weekend trips for the foreseeable future if not overnights. The 19 gal water tank is interesting but not sure I want the pump faucet. Recommendations?
What does everyone do for dishwashing?
Really appreciate the advice from the experts.
Necessity of having a second battery?
Right now I have the 6" vent recommended by Treeline for Norcal Teardrops vice the 14". The 14" is a pretty big fan and requires a mod to the SCT roof rack. Seems like the larger fan could possibly leak. Thoughts?
The Triton water heaters are about $150. Why does SCT charge $750 to put an enclosure around it?
Really torn on the 30 Gal tank. Right now I have 2 Scepter can holders along with some RotopaX. We will probably do 3 day weekend trips for the foreseeable future if not overnights. The 19 gal water tank is interesting but not sure I want the pump faucet. Recommendations?
What does everyone do for dishwashing?
Really appreciate the advice from the experts.
Yulli
Yulli the Yeti
I have the Fantastic Fan or whatever it's called. I haven't had any issues with a leak. I think all fans are gonna be installed the same. Cut a hole, seal it, and screw/bolt into place. The bigger fan makes a huge difference though. I have it in mine and that thing really moves some air.
I don't have a water set up. I usually bring jugs of water and try to keep dish washing to a minimum. I'm not a big water user when it came to regular camping, and moving to a TD does give me advantages of tent camping but not all, water being one of them. I figured I can live without having the water system, etc. If I wanted that I would have just gotten a bigger trailer.
I don't have a water set up. I usually bring jugs of water and try to keep dish washing to a minimum. I'm not a big water user when it came to regular camping, and moving to a TD does give me advantages of tent camping but not all, water being one of them. I figured I can live without having the water system, etc. If I wanted that I would have just gotten a bigger trailer.
mvbeggs
Adventurer
Trailer- Electrical, Ventilation, Water
ELECTRICAL: I have two, group 31 batteries in my trailer. (Deka Intimidator AGM #8A31DTM) These batteries are rated at 105 mins @ 20amps. Just keep in mind when sizing the electrical storage that realistically you only have access to about 50% of the rated capacity. It was recommended to me that I NOT draw down batteries below a 50% charge. (which for 12v systems is about 12.2 volts) We can usually run several days before needing to recharge- if we don't have the solar panel set up.
IMHO, The only advantage of 2 batteries is the length of time between charging. Keep in mind, no matter the number of batteries used or the size of the battery, if you use 100 amp hours from your electrical storage it will take over 100 amp hours of charger input to replenish your battery. (i.e. if you have a 10 amp charger, you should fully expect to have to run the battery charger in excess of 10 hrs to replenish the 100 amp hrs used from battery. 10amp x 10 hrs= 100 amp hrs)
VENTILATION; I also have the Fantastic (14") fan. You will appreciate the amount of air it moves on those warm nights. The fan is reversible, which means you can pull air in, or push air out, the top. No leaks to date. (knock on wood)
The fan is also relatively quiet for the amount of air it moves. I highly recommend.
(keep in mind the fan draws from 0.4 amps on low to 1.6 amps on high- if you run it all night - 8 hrs - you will have depleted your electrical storage from 3.2 amp hours to 12.8 amp hours- that may impact your electrical system design)
WATER: The onboard water system gives you a couple of options you may want to think about. The first is the convenience of having a pressurized water source. The hand held sprayer, along with the pressure pump, makes it very easy to rinse dishes, brush your teeth, get a glass of water, etc. We typically leave the hand held sprayer attached to the mixing valve and just turn the pump on and off when we need water. Beats a jerry can with a hose bibb attached. (done that too)
The other convenience of having a pressurized system is when you want to take a shower. We use a Zodi Extreme shower (basically a stainless steel, pump up, bug sprayer). We use the Zodi for the hot water source. The onboard water is the cold water source. We heat the water in the Zodi to about 160 degrees and then use the shower mixing valve to temper the hot water from the Zodi to a comfortable temp. This allows 2 of us to take a shower with only one Zodi container of hot water. (typically we pour about 1/3 of a tank of the Zodi's contents back into the tank.)
I don't know how you will use your trailer, but water IS the limiting factor for how long my wife and I can stay out unsupported. We carry about 30 gallons of water. (25 of that is on board) That amount of water allows us to stay out 11-15 days before having to reprovision.
IMHO, the onboard water tank takes advantage of the unused storage space on the bottom of the trailer. To me, that is an efficient use of that space. It also puts the water, which is heavy, down low on the trailer helping to lower the trailer's center of gravity. Obviously, my vote is FOR the onboard water tank.
Keep in mind that my trailer is the Adventure Trailer version of the SoCal trailer. I assumed the water system is setup the same on both - but you know what they say about assumptions :sombrero:
Good luck on the trailer build!
ELECTRICAL: I have two, group 31 batteries in my trailer. (Deka Intimidator AGM #8A31DTM) These batteries are rated at 105 mins @ 20amps. Just keep in mind when sizing the electrical storage that realistically you only have access to about 50% of the rated capacity. It was recommended to me that I NOT draw down batteries below a 50% charge. (which for 12v systems is about 12.2 volts) We can usually run several days before needing to recharge- if we don't have the solar panel set up.
IMHO, The only advantage of 2 batteries is the length of time between charging. Keep in mind, no matter the number of batteries used or the size of the battery, if you use 100 amp hours from your electrical storage it will take over 100 amp hours of charger input to replenish your battery. (i.e. if you have a 10 amp charger, you should fully expect to have to run the battery charger in excess of 10 hrs to replenish the 100 amp hrs used from battery. 10amp x 10 hrs= 100 amp hrs)
VENTILATION; I also have the Fantastic (14") fan. You will appreciate the amount of air it moves on those warm nights. The fan is reversible, which means you can pull air in, or push air out, the top. No leaks to date. (knock on wood)
The fan is also relatively quiet for the amount of air it moves. I highly recommend. (keep in mind the fan draws from 0.4 amps on low to 1.6 amps on high- if you run it all night - 8 hrs - you will have depleted your electrical storage from 3.2 amp hours to 12.8 amp hours- that may impact your electrical system design)
WATER: The onboard water system gives you a couple of options you may want to think about. The first is the convenience of having a pressurized water source. The hand held sprayer, along with the pressure pump, makes it very easy to rinse dishes, brush your teeth, get a glass of water, etc. We typically leave the hand held sprayer attached to the mixing valve and just turn the pump on and off when we need water. Beats a jerry can with a hose bibb attached. (done that too)
The other convenience of having a pressurized system is when you want to take a shower. We use a Zodi Extreme shower (basically a stainless steel, pump up, bug sprayer). We use the Zodi for the hot water source. The onboard water is the cold water source. We heat the water in the Zodi to about 160 degrees and then use the shower mixing valve to temper the hot water from the Zodi to a comfortable temp. This allows 2 of us to take a shower with only one Zodi container of hot water. (typically we pour about 1/3 of a tank of the Zodi's contents back into the tank.)
I don't know how you will use your trailer, but water IS the limiting factor for how long my wife and I can stay out unsupported. We carry about 30 gallons of water. (25 of that is on board) That amount of water allows us to stay out 11-15 days before having to reprovision.
IMHO, the onboard water tank takes advantage of the unused storage space on the bottom of the trailer. To me, that is an efficient use of that space. It also puts the water, which is heavy, down low on the trailer helping to lower the trailer's center of gravity. Obviously, my vote is FOR the onboard water tank.
Keep in mind that my trailer is the Adventure Trailer version of the SoCal trailer. I assumed the water system is setup the same on both - but you know what they say about assumptions :sombrero:
Good luck on the trailer build!
coastsider
Adventurer
We have the twin 15 gallon low mounted water tanks with electric pump and instant hot water box/shower. I do love this set up, I've taken it though rock gardens with no issues, the armour plate is substantial and covers all the vulnerable areas. The weight is low slung and with the leaf spring and Fox shock set up we have I've never had issues. As with any water storage system you must keep it clean, I flush out my tanks with a little bicarbonate of soda periodically and personally store the trailer with them full as it's the air contact can promote the growth of algae etc. A little bleach flush out will clear that up if needed. It's all personal preference of course, I also carry two RotoPax systems one on the trailer and one on my truck for gas and extra 'emergency' water.
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Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
coastsider
Adventurer
Someone asked a while ago about a protective cap for the cabin heater propane connection, well here's my solution, ACE hardware cost a few cents so I bought a few in case we loose it on the trail.
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unusedusername
Observer
I needed the second battery to allow me to run my HF radio.
It draws 30 amps when transmitting at full power and the single battery couldn't keep up without the voltage dropping too low.
Since I don't transmit very often it doesn't kill the reserves, I just needed to be able to support a higher peak load.
It draws 30 amps when transmitting at full power and the single battery couldn't keep up without the voltage dropping too low.
Since I don't transmit very often it doesn't kill the reserves, I just needed to be able to support a higher peak load.
coastsider
Adventurer
Do your doors fit snugly? I noticed a very slight crack of light coming though on both my doors in different places between the door and the cabin body. Not much maybe a 16th of an inch for a length of 8" along the door edge, but enough to make me question the double seal effectiveness. I carefully leveraged the aluminium fitting and eliminated the problem on one door but the other persists. Now maybe I'm being a perfectionist but I like the peace of mind of all dust/moisture/insects being sealed out especially as most of our camping is desert. On the subject of sealing things, who has Sipico awnings? And does your stitching leak in rain? Mainly where the Velcro is sewn. Not a big deal, nothing some vinyl rubber sealant can't fix. We had an annoying drip from those areas last time it rained on us. Like I mentioned all easy fixable, just wondered if mine are isolated cases.
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gabepari
Explorer
Door Seal
Kevin,
Send us an email regarding your door seal... A photo or two of the area in question will help us determine what to do about it.
As always, I don't get to this forum all that often, too busy building trailers and camping with my son's Cub Scout pack. E-mailing or calling the shop is much prefered.
Thanks,
Gabe Pari
www.socalteardrops.com
Kevin,
Send us an email regarding your door seal... A photo or two of the area in question will help us determine what to do about it.
As always, I don't get to this forum all that often, too busy building trailers and camping with my son's Cub Scout pack. E-mailing or calling the shop is much prefered.
Thanks,
Gabe Pari
www.socalteardrops.com
coastsider
Adventurer
Hey Gabe,
Was not aware you were on the forum. That's awesome! I will send you the pics, I bought this used if you remember, it's a 2014 Krawler 459. As I said its nothing major but was wondering if it was a normal event. I appreciate your attention.
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mvbeggs
Adventurer
Door Seal
Had a similar door seal issue with my AT/SoCal teardrop. I was sent a set braces that take any warpage out of the door. The braces are made from baltic birch, with the same quality as the rest of the trailer. As well as solving the problem, they make for a great interior handle to help close the door.
BTW, I used a dollar bill to check the seal on the door. Dollar bill shouldn't be able to slip and move.
Had a similar door seal issue with my AT/SoCal teardrop. I was sent a set braces that take any warpage out of the door. The braces are made from baltic birch, with the same quality as the rest of the trailer. As well as solving the problem, they make for a great interior handle to help close the door.
BTW, I used a dollar bill to check the seal on the door. Dollar bill shouldn't be able to slip and move.