The Gubblemobile- Series III from hell.

[Alaska Mike]

Is it the shipping to AK that kills it? You can get a set of 5 DI spare steelies that fit the series for about $125. I have 2 sets of 16" wheels for my 109 and a set of steelies. (Not selling though, sorry.) Keep looking out for deals, they are out there if you are patient.

The shipping kills me every time. In most cases with wheels, the shipping from most vendors is more than the price of the wheels themselves.

I figure I'll run the 31x10.50s for a while, then maybe pick up a set of 16" wheels on a trip down south one year. We'll see how they look and stuff into the wheelwells.

 

[Alaska Mike]

that's highly plausible Mike about rolling the lip. on my coiler I wiped the swivel ball down with a little 90wt before before buttoning everything up. they are all notoriously finicky. some guys never seem to have a problem, and then others are always leaking regardless of what they try. If it's bad you can investigate using the "oneshot" grease that's used in the newer trucks, also sometimes referred to as "corn grease". there were some epic threads on this on the LRO list waaaay back.

there did seem to be a consensus as I recall that the grease isn't as desirable for a truck that sees a lot of water and mud. the thought being, if oil isn't getting out, water isn't getting in. lots of people would just say to hell with the seals and put the grease in, only to find destroyed U-joints or CV's from water and rust a few years later.

some googlin' on the topic will make for an evening of entertainment :coffeedrink:

cheers

The Lucas hub oil is some pretty thick stuff. Since I will likely be running some mud and water here and there, I'm hoping I can get this to work. I need something I can drain if required without disassembling the swivel ball housing to do it.

The previous owner (may he rot in the hot place) seemed to have solved the debate by letting whatever was in the swivel ball housing run dry.

 

[stevenmd]

The shipping kills me every time. In most cases with wheels, the shipping from most vendors is more than the price of the wheels themselves.

I figure I'll run the 31x10.50s for a while, then maybe pick up a set of 16" wheels on a trip down south one year. We'll see how they look and stuff into the wheelwells.

Well you are more than welcome to store them in my garage until you make a trip down here. I live in Northern California.

 

[Alaska Mike]

Indecisiveness

Here I am at a crossroads again, halfway through an axle and wondering if I'm going in the right direction. I blame it on the swivel ball.

My trail Jeep has seen very little use over the last couple years because it can't fit the family. So there it sits, unused. I can't sell it for anywhere near what it's worth (I've tried and the market just isn't there anymore). Underneath the Jeep is an open knuckle Dana 30 with an ARB, 4.10 gears, disc brakes, and a Warn internal hub conversion. The rear axle is a Dana 44 with an ARB, 4.10 gears, 11"x2" drums and a Warn full-floating axle conversion.

The reason I bring this up is that brakes are one of my concerns with the Rover, especially in the mud and water. I can foresee a disc brake conversion in my future, which after shipping will run $2K+. The turning radius for the closed knuckle Rover axle is nothing to write home about, especially on tight trails and considering the pitman arm on the power steering box I'm using. The 3.54 gear ratio I settled on was more of a short term, see if it works kind of thing, and less than optimal.

I am a whole lot of money into the Rover axles though. Seriestrek shafts, bearings, seals, differentials, brake parts (to include all new brake lines), swivel balls... it certainly added up. I like the full-floating, 3rd member design, and the bolt-in simplicity of it, but I'm starting to have second (or tenth) thoughts.

If the Jeep axles will stuff (with some perch welding), here's what I expect:

• I'll need to replace the Dana 44 housing with an offset housing. I've located a complete (drum to drum), 10 spline early CJ housing for $50.
• I'll need to convert the 10 spline axles to 30 spline to match the ARB, and since Warn doesn't make the axle shafts for the full-floating conversion anymore, that means finding another vendor or custom shafts. Could be expensive, but still less than $800.
• I'll need to replace the brake hydraulic system with a CJ system, from the master cylinder down. That shouldn't be too bad, since I can source the brake line locally and all of the parts are available at the nearest NAPA. I figure it will be less than $300 for that.
• I might have to modify the brake pedal linkage a bit, but not excessively.
• I'll likely have to modify the spring plates for the different diameter axle tubes.

I think that's about it. I figure I can sell quite a bit of the Rover stuff locally to cover most of the conversion costs (but not my initial investment). Did I forget anything?

What is very appealing is the thought that I'll be able to keep my Jeep with me in some form. It's been with me for a lot of years, but I can't really ever see myself using it again like I used to. It's just not practical anymore, and once I pull the 8274 for the Rover, it will be less trail capable. But I don't have to explain sentimental attachments to Rover owners, do I?

So, what do you think of the concept?

 

[revor]

I'd be careful putting something so modern and efficient on a Series Rover. Things like upgraded brakes and such are often rejected by the vehicle for years after the conversion! You must spend time to convince the Rover that the modification is for the good of everyone!

As far as the morality of the conversion that's on your conscience. I can say that I hate the thought of scrapping any nice vehicle that runs for the sake of another. On the other hand you'd hate to see it sit and rust away.

Lemme know If I can help with axles. Those 30 double spliners are usually about $400

 

[Wander]

Don't you Blastpheme in here!:Wow1: (just kidding)

MercedesRover used Toyota axels (I think, I'll have to re-reade his build thread) on both his builds for a very similar of not the same issue and had good luck with it.

 

[Scott Brady]

Glad to see you continuing with the project!

 

[SeaRubi]

I would say ... whatever gets it on the road in the shortest amount of time is the best idea. It seems like operating vehicles have a way of sorting out what needs to be done next much better than ones on jackstands, speaking from experience ... :ylsmoke:

I don't think a Dana 30 has much to brag about over a Series axle in a Series rig on < 32" tires. These trucks conquered a lot of jungle all over the world with 10 spline axles, open differentials and drum brakes. It can work for you, too - with that ginormous 8274 winch you got :elkgrin:

 

[Alaska Mike]

I'd be careful putting something so modern and efficient on a Series Rover. Things like upgraded brakes and such are often rejected by the vehicle for years after the conversion! You must spend time to convince the Rover that the modification is for the good of everyone!

As far as the morality of the conversion that's on your conscience. I can say that I hate the thought of scrapping any nice vehicle that runs for the sake of another. On the other hand you'd hate to see it sit and rust away.

Lemme know If I can help with axles. Those 30 double spliners are usually about $400

I'm way past morality here. More like heresy.

I may hit you up on the axles. It's been a while since I priced them, and that was for flanged axles.

The CJ-5 will likely get another set of stock axles (Dana 30, AMC 20), so it won't just get parted out. I have more than the axles invested, and it's still a solid vehicle. I'll either sell it or keep it for an extra trail rig. It just won't be what it was.

 

[Bugspray]

I'm going skiing.[/QUOTE]

it solves all of lifes little problems.....or at least puts'em off for another day!

 

[Alaska Mike]

I would say ... whatever gets it on the road in the shortest amount of time is the best idea. It seems like operating vehicles have a way of sorting out what needs to be done next much better than ones on jackstands, speaking from experience ... :ylsmoke:

I don't think a Dana 30 has much to brag about over a Series axle in a Series rig on < 32" tires. These trucks conquered a lot of jungle all over the world with 10 spline axles, open differentials and drum brakes. It can work for you, too - with that ginormous 8274 winch you got :elkgrin:

It's not so much the strength that the Dana 30 has over the Rover axle than the other advantages, like the disc brakes, gearing, and ARB that are already installed. Although I've never broken so much as a ujoint on one, I have everything from axle shafts to rotors to hubs sitting on the garage shelves.

The axles are the least of the issues keeping it off the road, but while I'm at this stage it's easier to fit axles and run brake lines.

Still pondering...

 

[Alaska Mike]

Don't you Blastpheme in here!:Wow1: (just kidding)

MercedesRover used Toyota axels (I think, I'll have to re-reade his build thread) on both his builds for a very similar of not the same issue and had good luck with it.

I have a set of his (Seriestrek) axle shafts for the Disco 24 spline carrier. His builds use Toyota 3rd members in the Rover housing, which would be slightly less exil in the eyes of the faithful. At least they still look like Rover axles and still use the same wheels.

He still had drum brakes on both, which was one of my main issues. His 109 has much larger drums, which helps.

 

[stevenmd]

I pretty much have everything Keith makes on my RRC, except Toy axles, but I did do the HD axles and CV's. Keith did made me some steering components for the 109.

My offer still stands to store some rims for you until you make a trip down here.:smiley_drive:

 

[Wander]

Ok this question is more for me than a suggestion but I thought I read that a GM disk brake kit would fit, and cost less or is it mating the disks to the hubs0axles that get's expensive. When I finally get my series (come on January!) this is something that will be on my list of possible projects as I can see how much this will add to safety and drivability.

 

[Alaska Mike]

TeriAnn's site is a great resource when looking at modifications such as a disc brake conversion. In many cases, it's not as simple as swapping on a few parts and you're good. Some prerequisites may apply. In my case, the wheel size (most don't fit 15" rims) is a sticking point, as is the master cylinder. Obviously not impossible to overcome, but they add to the overall cost of the project. If you look at the size and likely weight of the box on TeriAnn's Torrel page, it would add a few hundred dollars in shipping to me. As much as I really like that design, the final price is just a little too high for the benefits.

Running the numbers, swapping in a Dana 30/Dana 44 combo will give me better overall braking performance front and rear, ARBs, a stronger rear differential, the possibilities of a rear disc conversion, and a few other benefits for about a 1/3 of the final price. In my case, given the amount of major systems that are already non-stock, swapping in axles isn't that much more of a major sin. On a Rover such as those you're contemplating, a bolt-on conversion kit that can be removed without major modification is a really nice option- if you find you need it. For many people, the stock 88 brakes will work fine.