The Gubblemobile- Series III from hell.

[evilfij]

Stick the bottle in hot water and then pour it in.

 

[Alaska Mike]

So. You've got it on a iv drip!

Could you inject it somehow? Maybe with turkey baster or similar.

That's as good a way as any to describe it. It's some very thick stuff, so a plastic pump just doesn't hold up. I certainly considered it, after all of my 80/90wt hand pumps failed.

Stick the bottle in hot water and then pour it in.

Now you tell me. I should have though of that. I'll definitely give it a shot next time.

My usual way of filling diffs is to use an old engine oil pump driven by a drill, fed by a 5 gallon drum. Since standard 80/90 taxes the drill a bit, this stuff would certainly stop it.

Well, it took a while, but the swivel ball filled. So far no leaks from the seal. Maybe I did roll the seal. I'm now letting it sit so the oil can work its way to the hub. Then I'll tilt the axle so that the hub gets flooded and the bearings get good and coated. I put a thin coat on the bearings as I installed them, but it doesn't hurt to get a little cautious when dealing with wheel bearings. I've had them fail waaaaayyyy out in the boonies before (mechanic didn't tighten the nuts properly), and it's not a pleasant thing.

We'll see if there's any leaks in the morning.

 

[Alaska Mike]

you need to measure WMS to WMS, as well as factor in wheel backspacing.

I kinda need to see what the standard backspacing is for a 7" CJ steel wheel and then compare it to the Rover 15" backspacing. This may be a non-issue, but 3" per side is a significant amount.

 

[Yorker]

I kinda need to see what the standard backspacing is for a 7" CJ steel wheel and then compare it to the Rover 15" backspacing. This may be a non-issue, but 3" per side is a significant amount.

yeah but with 5 on 5 1/2 wheel studs you have a ton of wheel options. You could always run something like M416/M151 rims to narrow the track width some.

 

[Yorker]

By the way, any tricks to getting Lucas Hub oil into a swivel ball? My pump won't move the stuff, so I've resorted to gravity and a long tube, with the bottle suspended from the battery tray. My garage is a little colder than 50F, so it isn't exactly flowing like water.

I put the bottle of hub oil in a saucepan of water ont he range and let the boiling water heat it up. Works great.

 

[Alaska Mike]

yeah but with 5 on 5 1/2 wheel studs you have a ton of wheel options. You could always run something like M416/M151 rims to narrow the track width some.

Actually, the goal would be to widen out the track width with those axles, since they're narrower than the Rover axles. My main concerns are turning radius and articulation, so if those are within limits than the option is still open. If not, I'll run the stock axles.

 

[Wander]

So which methiod worked..the IV drip? Any leaks?

 

[Alaska Mike]

The IV drip worked, and so far no leaks. I'm going to use the saucepan method next time, if I can sneak it in while the wife isn't home. She's funny about her cookware like that.

 

[ntsqd]

Up grade the camp cookware; down grade the replaced pot to garage duty.

 

[Wander]

The IV drip worked, and so far no leaks. I'm going to use the saucepan method next time, if I can sneak it in while the wife isn't home. She's funny about her cookware like that.

Lol I'd have the same problem........."Mmm, what's cooking?". Uhhh. How about some 90 wt???

 

[Alaska Mike]

Up grade the camp cookware; down grade the replaced pot to garage duty.

Not my good camp cookware!!!

 

[ntsqd]

OK, so hit up the Big Lots for a cheep pot and use it.
BTW, I leave the lube in it's original container, fill the pot partly with water, and heat the lube in the pot of water. Do others pour the lube directly into the pot?

 

[Alaska Mike]

OK, so hit up the Big Lots for a cheep pot and use it.
BTW, I leave the lube in it's original container, fill the pot partly with water, and heat the lube in the pot of water. Do others pour the lube directly into the pot?

Oh that was the plan- possibly in a plastic bag to further avoid contamination. I could also do it in the sink with some hot water (our water gets very hot), to avoid the chance of melting the bottle.

 

[Yorker]

Actually, the goal would be to widen out the track width with those axles, since they're narrower than the Rover axles. My main concerns are turning radius and articulation, so if those are within limits than the option is still open. If not, I'll run the stock axles.

OK I thought the CJ stuff was as wide if not wider, If you can get an accurate WMS to WMS on both axles that would be handy because most CJ tnfo I have seen online is possibly track width not WMS to WMS.

Axle Width Data

Factory tread with is not WMS to WMS. It's center of stock tire on stock wheel to the same on the other side. It depends on offset of wheels and several other factors. Tread width is usually narrower than WMS to WMS because of the off set the center of tire is farther inboard than WMS. Use this chart for comparison.

CJ8s can have both wide and narrow factory axles

The J-10 axle is wider than a NT and narrower than a WT.

'41 to 45 Jeep MB: 48.25"
'46 up CJ-2A, CJ-3A : 48.25"
'49-65 Jeep Utility Wagon: 57"
'49 Willys Jeepster 2WD 57"
'52 up CJ-3B: 48.44"
'52 M-38A 49.19" (Military width)
'54-71 CJ-5 48.44" (so called early narrow axle)
'55-75 CJ-6 48.44" (so called early narrow axle)
'47-65 Pickup (the classic) frnt-56" rr-63.5"
'63-69 J-200, J-2000 65.5"
'63-69 J-300, J-3800 65.75"
'70- 72, Gladiator J-2000 frnt-63.5" rr-63.81"
'70- 72, Gladiator J-4000 frnt-63.8" rr-64.38"
'73 J-2500 frnt-63.5" rr-63.8"
'73 all other J trucks frnt-63.9" rr-64.4"
'74-75 J-10 frnt-62.9" rr-63.8"
'76-87 J-10 frnt-63.3" rr-63.8"
'74-75 J-20 frnt-62.9" rr-64.4" with disc brakes: frnt-63.0" rr-64.4"
'76-84 J-20 frnt-64.9" rr-65.9"
'63-72 Wagoneer 57"
'73 Wagoneer frnt-57.3" rr-57.5"
'74-75 Wagoneer frnt-59" rr-57.5"
'74-75 Cherokee (full size) frnt-58.8' rr-57.5"
'76-91 Wagoneer, '80+ Cher frnt-59.4" rr-57.8"
'76-79 Cherokee (full size) frnt-59.2" rr-57.8"
'76-78 Cherokee S frnt-59.5" rr-58.5"
'76-80 Cherokee Chief 2 dr. frnt-65.4" rr-62.3"
'81-83 Cherokee Chief 2 dr. frnt-65.3" rr-62.3"
'67-71 Jeepster C-101 50"
'72-73 Commando C-104 frnt-51.5" rr-50"
'72-83 CJ-5, frnt-51.5" rr-50" (so called-
'76-81 CJ-7, CJ-8 ('81 only) frnt-51.5" rr-50" narrow axle)
'82-86 CJ-7 frnt-55.8" rr-55" (so called- wide axle)
'82-85 Scrambler, CJ-8 frnt-55.8" rr-55" wide axle )
'84-87, 93 up Cherokee XJ 58"
'88 up Cherokee XJ 57"
'86-92 Comanche, 57"
'87 up Wrangler, YJ/TJ 58"
'93 up Grand Cherokee, ZJ/WJ 58"
http://www.greatlakes4x4.com/showthread.php?t=1461

Just to throw some other passenger offset info up here since this is kind of a tech thread:

Toyota FJ40 axles are 56" front, 55.25" rear
FJ60 are 60"
FJ80s are 63"

.

IIRC WMS to WMS on a Series is 54" but my spare axles are buried under snow right now and I can't measure them to confirm.

 

[Alaska Mike]

OK I thought the CJ stuff was as wide if not wider, If you can get an accurate WMS to WMS on both axles that would be handy because most CJ tnfo I have seen online is possibly track width not WMS to WMS.

IIRC WMS to WMS on a Series is 54" but my spare axles are buried under snow right now and I can't measure them to confirm.

My Rover measurement might have been off. If so, and your measurements are correct, the CJ axles might be more feasible.

51.5" sounds about right for a Dana 30, and as I recall. the rear axles are always narrower.