M416: Project Beer Crawler

[RAZORBACK]

Yeah, that's what I decided to call it...after my neighbor mentioned "now we can get more beer back to camp". Got the little 416 broken down, sandblasted, powder coated and started putting it back together. For those that care: Its a 1967 Stevens all original. I have primarily used this trailer for camping gear, kayaks and hauling food and beverages to and from camp during my travels as my Jeep stays pretty full with my dogs, guns, and other camp necessities. Thought I would share my progress thus far.

Tub was removed, sandblasted, sprayed with etching primer.

Frame was disassembled, sandblasted, powder coated satin black.

All nuts bolts replaced with grade 8

Using original axle-All new bearings, grease seal, spindle nut, etc.

Will use spacer/adapters to match the current tire setup on my Jeep. 37x13.50xR18 Nitto Mud Grapplers

 

[corrupt]

looks tidy

 

[dieselandmud]

What color is the tub? Is it powder coated also? What was the cost to bast it clean and then the powder coat?
Thanks

 

[RAZORBACK]

What color is the tub? Is it powder coated also? What was the cost to bast it clean and then the powder coat?
Thanks

I have sprayed the tub with etching primer after it was blasted. The primer I used just happened to resemble od green. I am spraying it in flame red to match my Rubi. When I finish putting the frame back together tomorrow, I will start working on the tub. The tub was in really good shape with zero rust. The only problem area is around one of the drain holes where a previous owner tried welding a new drain plug retainer on and bubbled and burned through the metal. Should be an easy fix.

The cost of blasting and powder coating was free. I did some electric work for the guy who owns the shop. He normally would charge $300 for blasting and powdercoating all of the parts and frame, which I still thought was a good price :rockon:

 

[rubicon789]

He normally would charge $300 for blasting and powdercoating all of the parts and frame, which I still thought was a good price :rockon:

Where is this? I am getting quote around $900 to blast, prime, and paint.:smileeek:

I am in the middle of doing the same thing... yours looks great so far.

 

[RAZORBACK]

Where is this? I am getting quote around $900 to blast, prime, and paint.:smileeek:

I am in the middle of doing the same thing... yours looks great so far.

Yeah, I was quoted $1200 and $1000 before I met this guy at an offroad park in Hot Springs, AR. His shop is in Shreveport, LA and he does exceptional work. Mostly hot rod frames and such. It would be a good drive for you, from New Jersey!:Wow1:

 

[rubicon789]

LOL... yea I was just shocked when I heard $900. I am still shopping around. Yea that would be a little out of the way.
:smiley_drive:

 

[RAZORBACK]

LOL... yea I was just shocked when I heard $900. I am still shopping around. Yea that would be a little out of the way.
:smiley_drive:

Yeah, $900-$1000 didn't sit well with me either. At that point I had planned on just having it blasted and painting it myself with POR15 chassis coat black paint.

 

[RAZORBACK]

Progress

Staying simple with this build as far as the frame and tub go. Just a basic springover. Keeping almost everything new original. No tailgate-I don't see a need for one or cutting up a tub that is almost perfect. I plan to get creative with the space available. Thinking about two different levels of storage and one being on a large pneumatic arm that will essentially "come out" of the trailer with a flip out platform for a stove, sink. Thinking about the other side having one large flush mount ice cooler. (like you see in outdoor BBQ pits) Will fab up some kind of top with a roof rack and top it off with an Eezi-awn.

 

[rubicon789]

As far as the Axle goes... what spacers are you going to use? And will they fit over the hub? I though someone said that they wouldn't, becaue I was thinking of doing the same, but then someone talked me out of it. Now I may got back.

Getting a new axle w/ brakes is lots more expensive when you factor in the extra cost for the brakes. If you want them, then you have to pay about $300. When spacers can be had for $100 a pair and just rebuild the stocker. Which I may just do now.

Using original axle-All new bearings, grease seal, spindle nut, etc.

Do you have the p/n's for all this stuff handy? It will just save me some searching. Thank, I will post my build here soon too.

 

[RAZORBACK]

Had a guy cnc the spacers for me.

You can call Frontline Military and Midwest Military and tell them what you need...for the bearing/seals, spindle nuts, etc. I had great customer service from both.

Timken bearing # LM501349. I bought the actual NOS seals that originally came with the trailer. PN 7996804; MIL-B-117F

I have read that others have used this one "Timken axle seal # 472018" and it has worked for them...just doesn't have the lip on it like the originals.

 

[rubicon789]

Thanks,

Did you get Spidertrac's or another brand... How much did they have to machine off?

Thanks for the p/n's I will call them up today.

 

[RAZORBACK]

Thanks,

Did you get Spidertrac's or another brand... How much did they have to machine off?

Thanks for the p/n's I will call them up today.

No I did not use Spidertrac's as they do not make a 5x5.5 to 5x5 adapter. Not sure what you're asking in your next question.

Making progress...about ready to flip her over and set her back on the wheels and tires if I ever get a day off work.

 

[rubicon789]

I was just wondering "if you got spidertrax" how much of the hole you had to maching out to make the spacer fit over the hub assembly. I called spidertrax and they do not make an adapter to fit over the stock axle hub.

 

[RAZORBACK]

RTT deals

I think I have decided on an Eezi awn 1800 for my trailer. Who has the best deal on this tent?