The Grand Adventure - Back to Africa!!!

[Christian P.]

Malawi and tragedy on Mount Mulanje

Marc and I had two goals when coming to Malawi - diving and hiking the highest summit (Supitwa) in the region.

We reached Lake Malawi a day after leaving Lilongwe where we spent the night in yet another typical African city backpacker/overlander place - I can't remember the name right now as they all begin to look the same to me. Windhoek, Maputo, Harare, Vic Falls, Lusaka, Lilongwe, Blantyre,...every city has one.

They usually all share the same characteristics:

-cheap
-populated by a few friendly backpackers, some expats and locals (usually drunk), a couple rastafari, one or 2 overlanders (usually couple) and 20 students (often from a religious group on a mission of sort)
-pool that looks like it has not been cleaned/used for several months
-bar where you end up too often and spend too much money
-satellite TV with either VH1 or a rugby/soccer game on
-overall state of cleanliness (beds, shower, etc) often questionable
-overworked management

That being said, it is always a great place to hang out and meet other travelers, make plans and get organized. Some are truly much better than others.
I guess they are a little bit like the Lonely Planet guides...whether you like or not, you can't travel without them.

But unlike Lusaka where we got stuck for 6 days and despite an impromptu visit to the Mozambique embassy to get our visa, we managed to spend only one night in Lilongwe. We drove to Lake Malawi the next afternoon having restocked on food, beers, cash and everything else needed.

Our first challenge was easily completed once we got to Cape McClear, a nice bay at the northern tip of Lake Malawi.
It was my first time diving deep water and it went perfectly well.
I think we even managed to avoid contacts with the water snails that carry the Bilharzia disease.

Apparently Cape McClear was a hot destination a decade ago but has seen the crowd moved elsewhere.
In any case it is still highly undeveloped and a gorgeous place to visit.
We camped directly at the dive shop on the beach and had a great time with the locals.

From Cape McClear we headed over to Mount Mulange.

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Mulanje_Massif

We got to the park headquarters around 3 pm to get organized, buy our permits and meet Anthony, our personal mountain guide.

Diving had been a breeze but hiking will prove to be a much more challenging experience.

We left the next morning around 6 am to hike to the nearest hut to the summit, about 2000 meters higher than the parking lot.
The plan was simple - hike to the Chiposa hut the first day, sleep there and wake up early, hike to the summit the second morning and come back down to the parking lot in the afternoon.
Well once again as it is often the case in Africa plans can change very quickly...

Even though the summit (Supitwa) at 3000 m is not very high by North American standards, the hike to get there is rather demanding and at times a bit tricky.

After stopping for a break and chatting with Anthony, he let us know that our plan was not possible. The hike simply takes too long.
Oops, first problem.

We figured we'll get to the hut and reassess there.

On the way up, Anthony then informed us that a Brazilian guy (Gabriel Buccman) had attempted to hike to the summit without a guide the morning before and had not been seen since then. The weather had been unusually cold and rainy. Some information was coming through as we met a few other guides but nothing was really precise until we met a Canadian couple who were coming down the mountain with the guy's backpack and personal things, including his passport and money.
They told us they had hiked to the summit but had not seen him that day.

We were expecting to get to the hut and as usual be the only tourists there. We reached the hut around 1pm.
We opened the door and to our complete surprise was a group of 10 british teenagers, their teacher and the expedition leader (Dave) setting up camp in there.

They had arrived about 1 hr before us from a different hut.

We shared the space and explored the options for the next day, discussing with Dave about the missing hiker and what possible assistance we could offer.
Marc and I decided to stay an extra day at the hut to give us enough time to reach the summit.

The next day things became even more confusing. Our guide informed us that no one could attempt the summit until a rescue team of 4 people had arrived and decided of the next action. By then we all started to feel a bit frustrated as time was passing quickly. The nights had been really cool, nearing freezing point and chances of survival were close to none. Around 9 am our guide finally told us that the team was on his way up the summit, and Marc and I could join him to try to climb too and help the search. The group of students and their 8 local porters were instructed to stay put for the day.

Unfortunately by then the weather was still really bad and despite of our motivation, we had to turn around about 400 meters from the summit.
With water pouring down the rocks and clouds closing in, the climbing was just becoming too dangerous.
It was really easy to see how someone climbing alone could get lost and fall in one of the crevasses. We did not find any trace of him.

We spent another evening in the smoky hut sharing spaces with the students and more rescuers coming for the official search that will begin the next day.
About 20 of us slept on the floor that night, playing cards, telling stories and sleeping next to each other in our sleeping bags.

By then it had been 4 days since the hiker had last been seen.
Don't get lost around here.

The third day, having no more food and with the weather still so-so we decided to go back down.
That morning about 20 rescuers were on the mountain looking for the missing hiker. This is the last I know - more details here:

http://www.afriquejet.com/news/africa-news/french-brazilian-hiker-goes-missing-in-malawi-2009072132054.html

We said goodbye to our new friends and reached the truck around noon.

A few hours later we were in Mozambique...

Pictures are here:

http://2aroundtheworld.smugmug.com/gallery/9060794_dqzN8/1/603245241_9qyqB

 

[Christian P.]

one last for you....where is the thread about tqking shots of OJ in the field...

 

[Ford Prefect]

Wow, very cool. Thanks for letting me read this thread! My wife and I would LOVE to do this some day... maybe it can happen...

 

[Christian P.]

We have just arrived in Dar es Salaam after quite an odyssey through Mozambique...

Does someone know of a place safe/cheap to park our truck while we go to Zanzibar?

thanks

 

[luangwablondes]

Kipepeo's. Take the Kigamboni Ferry over to the South Bank. It runs from 5AM to 1AM everyday, 7 days a week, weekends and holidays too. Take the tar road south paralleling the ocean about 7.5kms. You turn left down a gravel road past Sunrise resort(camping), then comes Kipepeo's(~1kms)-- this is the best place(and camping), and if that doesn't float your boat, there is South Beach(camping too). But Kipepeos is the best for an overlander and will let you park while in Zanzibar. The transportation back to the ferry and then to the Zanzibar ferry is easy to arrange.

If you haven't guessed, I've done this more then a few times.

 

[Christian P.]

as usual a big thanks - we'll go there tomorrow.

 

[luangwablondes]

4x4 Rescue 12 ton truck in July

Even in July it was too wet. Most vehicles at that time were coming in from the south to get to Kubu.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RBQepZFRqS4

 

[jeffsays]

hi there.luangwablondes thanks for sharing a link.it's really interesting..:wings:

 

[Christian P.]

Mix together a strong Portuguese heritage, 20 years of communist/socialism followed by 20 years of civil war with pratically no development, stunning coast line and unchanged cities and you get some of the ingredients that compose Mozambique today.

We drove from Northern Malawi across to Cuemba, then Nampala and reached the coast at Ilha de Mozambique. For the next days we followed the coast up North until we reached the Rovuma river.

While the Southern part of Mozambique has seen a lot of touristic developments over the last years (thanks to South African coming up for vacation), Northern Mozambique is quasi untouched and unchanged. The roads are amongs the worst we have seen but the people are the friendliest and the beaches/islands almost surreals.

One the most interesting and intriguing aspects of this country was to contemplate the large numbers of abandonned buildings from the colonial era.

I can truly say that this portion of the journey has been one of my favorite so far. There is a real sense of opportunities and you get a feel of what it could have been like for the first explorers - before all modern development started. It has been one of the most challenging area to travel as there are almost no services, no supermarket (shoprite hasn't made it here yet...) and if you do break down, expect to spend a lot of time around...

We explored some islands using local Dhow boats which have not changed for several centuries and are still being built and used the same way. Don't expect any life jacket, gps or any other rescue equipment here. Just a boat, a crew and an old sail.

 

[UK4X4]

Great photo's

keep posting !

 

[Christian P.]

Crossing the Rovuma River - Part 1

There are only 3 ways to cross from Northern Mozambique to Tanzania.

The brand new bridge at Congresso, on the edge of Lake Malawi.
From the coast, it would take at least 2-3 days to back track and reach that border crossing.
I don't know the condition of the roads in that area but based on my experience in Mozambique and talking with other travellers they can't be very good....

By the time you reach Dar Es Salaam you probably have made a detour of over 1000 kilometers and drove at least 4 days.

The second option is the bridge at Meganome which should be completed early 2010 and is about half way between the coast and Lake Malawi (known as Lake Niassa in Mozambique).
Based on "very reliable" information given to us the night before we left
("yes I am totally positive I met a couple who crossed there last week" - drunk captain at Ilha Ibo)
we decided it was worth a try to go see and avoid the hefty "ferry" fee.

200 km of horrible tracks and one day later we came to this:

A brand new road!

But about 2 km later...an unfinished bridge.

We decided not to wait until completion...

The "3 boats attached with ropes" method at, near the coast - which is by far the most direct route.

If you are coming from Ilha de Mocambique and driving along the coast, that's pretty much the only option right now until the new bridge is completed.

Here's how the crossing works.

You heard about it from a few locals and on a couple posting on an Internet forum

http://www.mozguide.com/

The ferry that was in service there before has sunked but the locals will take you across on a "barge".

Here's what's left of the old ferry:

You can't really get a precise answer as how much it's going to cost (anywhere between $100 and $400US) and how the "barge" looks like.
So you figure you will get there and with your strong negociation skills you will get a killer deal with the boat captain and everything will be easy.

First you have to get to the Mozambique custom/immigration office.
To reach it, you drive on a really nice sandy track for about 35 km past the last village of Prai do Palmas.
Which is itself about 150 from Praia de Mocimbao on another decent dirt road.

Since you spent major portion of the day driving back from the unfinished bridge at Negonamo (or for any other reason...flat, breakdown, got lost, etc..), you get there at 5pm on a Friday night.
The custom agents are already drunk by then and it's getting dark.
When the immigration officer asks for a torch so he could read yor passport you realize you are after hours and by now you know after hours equals extra fees for everyone involved.

The office is about 5 km from the river so once you get your Mozambique exit stamps (passport and carnet the passage) you enter a no man's land and the option of going back to Mozambique is gone.
Great, 1-0 for the boat captain.

By the time you reach the river, it is completely dark.
As usual you get swamped by locals offering their help and eventually you make a few new friends and set up camp for the night.
If you're lucky like us, you end up drinking Rhino gin with some drunk teenagers who take you for a 2 km walk to a hut that has a generator and a tv.
This way you can watch a Filipino soap dubbed in English seating on a the floor with the entire family of 25.
And hopefully start negociating with the boat captain who according to our limited Swahili should be there somewhere too.
Around 11 pm the locals take you back to your truck, trying to avoid the man-eater lions that apparently roam around there.
The guy to whom you have been talking all night do own the TV and the generator but does not own any boat and there is no captain around.
He lives on the other side in Tanzania. 2-0 boat captain.

The next morning you wake up around 5 am as the locals start arriving with their trucks to pick up passengers from Tanzania.
They all line up their Land Cruisers and since you also drive a similar Land Cruiser you start taking pictures and make tons of new friends!!

 

[Christian P.]

Crossing the Rovuma River - Part 2

Everyone enjoyed the Overland Journal...

You can also familiarize yourself with the latest development in term of suspension upgrades:

By then you start to understand that the boats that will take you across are coming from Tanzania and that they can only cross at high tide, which will not be until around noon.
So you go back to bed.

Around 11ish the boats finally arrive. With the captain. And his translator.
At this point, you have been waiting for almost 18 hours.
Since the captain lives on the other side, you have not been able to start any negociation.
And now you have about 1 hr to get the boats ready and start crossing the river.
So much for your negociation power. 3-0 for the captain.

So you seat down and start talking. $350US. Too much. We give you $200. No way.
We'll give you $200 plus a couple things - a blue shirt, a book, an old GPS.
Nope. $250 + the items. We sticked to $200.
The boat captain leaves. Time is running out and he knows it.
Call the captain back. $220 + items. Nope.
All right then, $250 cash + items. Deal done. Ouf.
Not too bad, better than driving back for 3 days.

Now, let's get to work everyone...



This is how the boats look when they arrive:

After they get unloaded, work begins to assemble the ferry.

7952

Pieces are attached together. Notice the high tension and oversized cable and ropes.

 

[Christian P.]

Crossing the Rovuma River - Part 3

Finally a few planks on the top

And it's time load the truck as the locals hold the "ferry".

After a few tense minutes, the truck is loaded and we're ready to go!

The crossing takes about 15 minutes, depending how much water is inside the boat and if the engines survive.
This gives a new meaning to the expression "it seems like an eternity".

Then it's time to unload and celebrate - you're in Tanzania!!!

In reality, the "barge" is actually very stable and from what we gathered there has been over 40 crossing this year.
The whole experience, while being stressful at times, was actually a lot of fun and great opportunity to exchange with the people.

The border crossing into Tanzania is really straightforward.
We got our immigration visa (single entry only, $50) at the border and the custom lady (for the carnet) is very friendly.
Just make sure your friend does not start a policital argument over the G.W. Bush's legacy with her before you get your carnet's exit stamps.

And she confirmed that $250 is pretty much the going rate these days...

More pictures here:

http://2aroundtheworld.smugmug.com/photos/623177619_yzmha-L.jpg

 

[XXXpedition]

cool pics.
WOW, i don't know if i would trust that ferry...
some vehicles have been lost one way or the other...

 

[Cabrito]

Your pictures are wonderful, and your story is awesome!

Thanks!